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Sorry Carl, I'm short one myself. Zeke @ Ensign Spars can hook you up with a new one. Not sure of the cost.
Thanks Kyle, I miss her! Here it is, 6pm, its been dark out since 4:30, I'm probably in for the night, waiting for a foot of snow to dump on me tomorrow then a high of -2 on Sunday with a wind chill of -30. Alas, a few short months ago I would just be loading up the cooler heading out for a balmy night sail. Woe unto me. I am distressed; sad; grieved.
Mike
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Ok Thanks Mike, Zeke gets about $245 for the original looking one.
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Hey Mike,
From your list in post 91, it looks like a single gallon each of Duratech and Awlgrip was required for your deck priming and painting? I'm assuming it was the Duratec White Vinyl Ester Primer. I'd prefer not to overbuy, of course. The prices look like it was a gallon each unless you get a great deal at Tonka Bay. Also, it looks like you used a Dremel for attacking your crazing - is that accurate?
Thanks,
Kyle
p.s. (Sorry to trouble you with all of these questions. You seem to knock out the grandest of undertakings with speed and efficiency, so I'm trying to utilize your mojo! On the Phoenix, you mention a blue vinylester paste. Could you tell me about that briefly? The crazing on Lucky Dawg is pretty extensive and that looks to fill nicely. I imagine routing out the crazing and filling with this prior to priming.)
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5 Attachment(s)
Mast mods
I stripped down The Princess's mast this spring to do a few mods. I had to drill out a fair amount of the screws and the mast base took me over an hour to remove with a torch and slide hammer.
I wanted to run the halyards internally. I just took out the large main halyard shieve and used Ronstan blocks in the slot. The spinnaker halyard runs to a block on the mast head fitting, then dives into the mast a foot or so from the top.
I pop riveted 1/2" pvc waterline inside of the mast through some of the holes for the old sail track for a wire chase. I did not want the wires to get fouled up with the new internal halyards. I also did not want the wires banging against the inside of the mast.
The mast has had its share of hardware and antennas bolted to it over the years so I had a buddy weld up the extra holes. I had the mast re anodized but I was unhappy with the results so I painted it with left over Awlcraft from the deck paint job. I found a place that would do the anodizing for $50. The problem was that the rosette welds which disappeared completely after I sanded them down showed up vividly after the anodizing. the mast also had a slight green hue to it.
I replaced the sail track with Harken micro traveler track and added a track to the front for a spinnaker pole. I lashed an old traveler car to the sails head board and stitched plastic slides on the rest of the sail to fit the track. I can use the Harken batt car system on my next mainsail. I ran the track down the mast low enough so the boom slides on the same track. I had to fabricate a new goose neck fitting.
Pic #1 Welding up holes
Pic #2 The yellow line through the clutch is the jib halyard, being I have a roller furling jib there is no need to have a full halyard sitting on the mast all summer so I just attach extra line when I'm going to drop the sail.
The other line is for the internal spin pole topping lift.
Pic #3 Main and spinnaker halyards.
Pic #5 Mast head
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First gibe with new Asymmetrical chute
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Mast Mods
Beautiful work!
I've procrastinated on rigging-up for my spinnaker... But with the wind blowing here, I have not been so eager to try & fly the kite!
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Nice mods to the big stick, Mike.
Hey, what a coincidence! I was just shopping for exit plates a couple of days ago! I decided to nix the cast mast head (and spreader sockets) and try to find the best compromise in designing a new welded top piece. We're going to accomodate spare halyards and that pretty much relagates us to internals as I don't want a mess of lines slapping the mast. I'm diggin' where you're going with the foresail halyard. What do you use to attach your...extension? Just tie them together? Mechanical?
Did you do your own patching there? We could use a bit of filling here too. And with sheaves that are a smaller diameter than the originals we are going to have that inch and a half by five inch hole to fill in on the top.
Anyway, it's always good to see some photos of your work and I can't wain to see The Princess in person.
Oh yeah, nice gybe and nice looking asym. Is that an 'inhouse' sail?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Tony G
Did you do your own patching there?
I guess I should focus a little more on reading, huh?:o
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Carl, thanks for the lead...the boat is beautiful! They are touch with each other so I hope they can hammer out a deal and we can get another Commander in our little fleet.
Tony, The Ronstan blocks I used fit nicely in the big slot from the main shieve. I don't know why you could not just stack a couple up to get your extra halyards.
I will strip an inch or two from The bitter end of the jib halyard and whip in a thin loop that I can tie a length of Spider wire or other thin cordage to raise and lower the jib.
Mike
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I don't see how the Princess could be further improved, but you'll think of something
Queen of the Fleet I tell 'ya...Queen of the Fleet
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I concur. That mast renovation is just plain sick.
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Your Welcome Mike, I wish I could quit looking though, LOL I just bought this; http://www.sailboatlistings.<wbr>com/view/23283 I bought a 2 cylinder Yanmar a couple of weeks ago and got on board a Triton undergoing a refit , and instantly loved the interior room. Also got to look at the thickness of the hull in several places where through hulls were located, the mininum was 5/8" with bulk being 3/4" . This was on #636 so I'm hoping the same crew laid up this boat #705. The one I bought is supposed to be a one owner boat who died and the family was trying to sell this boat for a ridiculous price. The yard finally stepped in wanting their storage fee and ended up with the boat. 706 has to be right at the end of the run for the Triton. With only 4 stanchons and 4 shrouds water intrusion should at a mininum . The decks are solid and only one soft spot at the rear of the cockpit
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Mike,
I think stacking the blocks in that slot may be strong enough for headsails. I thought having a 3/8" bolt through the center of the sheaves would handle the loaded stress of the main halyard better long term. My rationale was, we are getting away from the cast aluminum fittings, why not 'two birds-one stone'.
Do you think the mast would have to be reinforced around the slot? If so, how would you proceed? You know-What Would Mike Do? ;)
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Mike Don't forget Chance is still trying to sell his Commander, with a new trailer
Commander #256 (Ceili)