Ariel #97

[carbonsoup]

hey, i got a trailer! 8k capacity, disk brakes and it was hardly used. jeez, i hope it fits. now, onto building the cradle.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/photo1_zps18147f69.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/photo1_zps18147f69.jpg.html)

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/photo3_zpsf2940794.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/photo3_zpsf2940794.jpg.html)

[ebb]

Yeah, can see the tape! Hope they fits, too.

Been to your site. Wonderful CRISP Alberg lines there!
Aren't they gorgeous!
I hear music when I see them! Never gets old.

Miss the view of exterior deck....

Want some interior shots.

[c_amos]

Matt,

Congrats! But you mint want to flip that thing over, they make a lot of racket when you drag them down the road like that... :p

[carbonsoup]

it would seem that the trickle of work completed on the boat has been related to metal work... I fabricated a new internal halyard masthead sheave block. The design was an evolution of Jerry Carpenter's Destiny's masthead sheave block. This is v.2 where Jerry and Mike (C227) came up with an over/under design so the main halyard sheave is up top and the jib halyard sheave is on bottom. This is to keep the jib halyard from getting in the way of the forestay and jib. As yet, still untested... but the main block is fabricated.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/over-under1_zps61ab070b.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/over-under1_zps61ab070b.jpg.html)

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/photo1_zps8606c437.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/photo1_zps8606c437.jpg.html)

Upon 'test fitting' I noticed the oblong hole for where the upper shroud attaches to the mast, port side. Interesting that the oblong is only on one side. Anyway, Im not entirely sure what type of cat skinning I intend, as there are a couple different ways to solve this problem.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/photo2_zps570fa66f.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/photo2_zps570fa66f.jpg.html)

I could:
1. weld up the oblong hole and redrill- this is the cleanest and simplest, except for the fact that I am not the best aluminum welder and where I would be performing such task would be less than optimal.
2. make a large aluminum patch, say 3" dia with and an appropriate hole, then rivet/screw into place.
3. drill the oblong hole round and make a shim with a collar for the shroud thru bolt.

[carbonsoup]

well, the days pass by and though I have done almost no work on the actual boat... I have finally finished the trailer, which Triumph is comfortably resting upon. This is such a huge milestone for me its hard to describe. Getting the trailer, modifiying the trailer, getting the boat transport guy to move her for the second time (after I already paid 2 years earlier) and then finally paying the local yard to lift her off one trailer and then place mine.... wheew!

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/T-121414-15_zps3h5ntpjm.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/T-121414-15_zps3h5ntpjm.jpg.html)
There are a couple things yet left to do to the trailer before she is ready for long distance travel. 1)bow support. I decided to wait until after Triumph was settled onto the trailer to weld on the final support, as I had NO IDEA where to put it... haha. 2) add a couple hook points for oversize tie-downs.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/T-121414-16_zpsrpthzyoh.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/T-121414-16_zpsrpthzyoh.jpg.html)

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/T-121414-17_zpsnoiwsqzm.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/T-121414-17_zpsnoiwsqzm.jpg.html)

[Commander 147]

And option #4 could be a 3" dia. patch that gets welded inside the mast. You drill a series of small say 1/4" holes around what will be the perimeter of the patch. Then you hammer the patch into a curve similar to the inside of the mast. Wedge it in place inside the mast. and start by plug welding the 1/4" holes around the perimeter. When they are welded you have a solid backing to plug weld the oblong hole and don't have to worry about blowing it out on the edges as you try to weld it up. Once it is welded and ground smooth you can drill the new hole and have extra meat in the area to help support the area and reinforce it.


Or, you could do what I figured out in the end would have been cheaper for me after I spent all the money rehabbing my mast and buy a new one from US Spars.


Options abound on different ways to skin that cat don't they?

[carbonsoup]

Or, you could do what I figured out in the end would have been cheaper for me after I spent all the money rehabbing my mast and buy a new one from US Spars.

AH! no. I will fix myself... actually, i have been doing a lot of aluminum and bronze welding, so I dont feel as apprehensive about welding on a 3" patch.

[carbonsoup]

The hardest thing about customizing an existing motorboat trailer to fit a sailboat is determining where the adjustable pads are going to land on the hull, but before that we need to figure out the foundation; i.e., keel support, center of gravity and how far above the axles the boat is going to rest.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/T-121414-5_zps6cdzbonj.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/T-121414-5_zps6cdzbonj.jpg.html)
Here you can see that I lopped off all of the pre-existing motorboat supports and have started to build the keel support. In my case, the keel support starts with 3″x3″x3/16 angle laying over the top of the existing cross braces. This was too add strength and rigidity to the cross braces while raising the keel support 4.5″ over the axles. This was after determining that the axles had about 3″ of vertical movement before wheels started rubbing. I then laid 2″x2″x3/16″ angle over the top to connect the cross braces and to capture the keel support lumber.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/T-121414-13_zpswknhr1l6.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/T-121414-13_zpswknhr1l6.jpg.html)
Skipping ahead, here is the nearly complete cradle showing (Schedule 40) 1 1/2″ steel pipe used as the boat support. The pipe is taking nearly all the vertical load with 2″x2″x1/8″ angle as vertical bracing (under tension).

As I mentioned before the hardest part was determining where to land the adjustable pads on the hull. I have to say… after looking at the original hull drawings, a sketch of a cradle in the Ariel/Commander owners’ manual, measurements taken from other Ariel trailers, and hanging an imaginary waterline off the trailer… I guessed.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/T-121414-12_zpsrhfys2dv.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/T-121414-12_zpsrhfys2dv.jpg.html)
However, I did myself a favor by rough cutting the adjustable pad supports nearly 18″ longer than I needed. Then while onsite at the boat yard and with the boat in the travel-lift I hung the boat over the trailer and took measurement (X) from the bottom of the keel to the keel support. By taking X plus the height of the adjustable screw top I cut the supporting pipe down to the correct size, about 9″-15″. voila!

[Commander 147]

Matt


Your work looks very nicely done. You are making what looks like a pretty strong trailer that should service you well.


The only thing I noticed and it may not be the case but when I had my trailer built all of the supports were similar in length like yours look (the pipe supports that the threaded rod goes into). When we went to set the boat on the trailer we had to cut the center ones down about 8" because we could not adjust them low enough to work with the hull. So there I was with a sawzall cutting off heavy gauge square tube while the boat hull over my head on the travel lift. Hope you don't have to repeat my experience.


Are you planning on putting a v-shaped support for the bow in the front?

[Bill]

There is a plan for a A-C cradle in the manual. Might be helpful . . .

[carbonsoup]

There is a plan for a A-C cradle in the manual. Might be helpful . . .
it was helpful! as a matter of fact, the most useful info I had to go on, besides the original hull drawings. however, a stationary cradle is a bit different than a mobile trailer. I did find that once I determined the general area where the adjustable pad was to land on the hull I could relax a little bit as the adjustable top could take up the slack....

when i get a chance, I will make a technical drawing of the most useful dimensions in relation to the 'standard' trailer.

[carbonsoup]

The only thing I noticed and it may not be the case but when I had my trailer built all of the supports were similar in length like yours look (the pipe supports that the threaded rod goes into). When we went to set the boat on the trailer we had to cut the center ones down about 8" because we could not adjust them low enough to work with the hull. So there I was with a sawzall cutting off heavy gauge square tube while the boat hull over my head on the travel lift. Hope you don't have to repeat my experience.


Are you planning on putting a v-shaped support for the bow in the front?

Yes and Yes. In post #255 you can see how the trailer was 'amended'. I did, indeed, need to cut the supports with the boat hanging over my head... it was on the only way.

The bow support is coming soon. I will need to tow her a couple miles up the road to do the welding.

[carbonsoup]

I made it home! Finally, I can get back to work. Not sure if I will be back in the water by this coming summer or not.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/shop1_zps39vx6xaq.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/shop1_zps39vx6xaq.jpg.html)

[carbonsoup]

This was a an enormous project in an of it self.... just driving through Philly, down my street, backing it up the driveway and winching it the last 20ft!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/shop2_zps7fj5a0ui.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/shop2_zps7fj5a0ui.jpg.html)

[carbonsoup]

So, my first post in a while regarding work.... now I have a dust dilemma. What have you all done to contain FRP dust in a shop? My shop and I are in a neighborhood with people living very close by, I don't want to vent directly outside.

I have a another floor above me, kind of a attic, I was thinking of putting a large dust collector system up there with a very large settling box. Any thoughts?

[carbonsoup]

upon water lines... now that I have ground, sanded and faired, I am thinking about the process of adding the barrier coat below the waterline and how I will lose the scribed line. So, I grabbed a laser from work to see what I was up against..
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/IMG_4949_zpsgsva7s0n.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/IMG_4949_zpsgsva7s0n.jpg.html)

however, after leveling the boat and lining up the laser as best I could... the molded/scribed line is either screwy or I am. Maybe a little hard to tell, but the scribed line is higher than the laser at the mid point.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/IMG_4950_zpsvsk5nnh7.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/IMG_4950_zpsvsk5nnh7.jpg.html)

pretty neat how the scribed line actually makes a deviation from the actual waterline near the rudder. This, I know, was purposeful to create a beautiful waterline. But the above picture... im not sure.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/Ariel/IMG_4948_zpsv5ogpy8o.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/Ariel/IMG_4948_zpsv5ogpy8o.jpg.html)

Anyway, when I barrier coat the raw fiberglass I am going to lose the waterline mark. Is it weird that I want to use the "string & batter board" method? As done by Tim Lackey and Louis Sauzedde, instead of using a laser? Just seems like a puff of wind or a curious kitten knocking the laser is going to ruin my day, whereas a string and some tape could be edited. Either way, I will need to take measurements from the toe rail at various points.

[carbonsoup]

and thinking seriously about a bowsprit. The biggest reason is to push the COE forward to balance the boat a bit and reduce weather helm. So far, im thinking 18" or less.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/P1010332_zps4jcr49j3.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/P1010332_zps4jcr49j3.jpg.html)

with a tow rail cap, currently mocked up in foam, and a winch (windlass?)
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/P1010333_zpsbvw93ynr.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/P1010333_zpsbvw93ynr.jpg.html)

The SS oval tube is just some scrap material I had lying around at work... I liked the shape.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/P1010334_zpsfcned4mi.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/P1010334_zpsfcned4mi.jpg.html)

[Bisquit]

Looks good. Nice work space.

Are you going to barrier coat below the waterline and above the waterline? If so you may want to do it in two steps. One method is before you barrier coat the top transfer the waterline onto the bottom. Take a carpenters square and lay the short edge on the waterline then make a 4-5" line and reference mark exactly 10" down the long edge of the square. Do this every 6". To transfer the line back just take the square, lay it on the line and make a mark 10" up from the reference mark. Stretch some fine line tape between the marks and you have the waterline back. It is really tricky to get the right shape near the transom. You should go closer than 6" apart there. When I stretched the tape I had to find the line that looked right. I used the marks for reference. I had a committee of onlookers drinking beers that were more than happy to render opinions.
I like the bowsprit. I'm looking at the removable Selden model. It is super simple to install, removable and pretty affordable. I can get you deal on one if you are interested.
http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1441613308/595-261-E.pdf


Phil

[ebb]

You've done an amazing job removing the gelcoat from the bottom.
Seems essential to roll on a 2-part barrier coat. Polyester frp is porus, the fibers
need protecting.
Barrier coat could be clear, covering every square inch of what you took off.
Maybe a couple coats. Paint cosmetic, coatings structural.

Then add more barrier but make it white up to the upper scribe line.
(assume its top of the boot stripe.)
Then use that lazer to relocate the actual waterline, especially under the stern.
Imco, what you've removed (microns) should be put back.

If the bottom paint ever gets stripped, it'll be good to see the white when sanding.
Maybe a couple coats.

When the hull gets painted, undercoat will go down to upper scribe to keep
awlgrip out of the water. Assume you'll have an enamel boot-top.

My late model Ariel has a thin hull below the WL. I felt OK with
multiple epoxy coats.

Missed it on my Ariel, but I should have used a tank coating for the barrier,
which generally is a tougher more waterproof epoxy.

Beautiful oval stainless! Maybe you won't need 'shrouds'/whiskers?
Looks like you'll need a new bow stay fitting. Wonder what your solution
will be there? Like the built up toerail, as well!!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~

Was just talking with PaulOman at Epoxyproducts.com. Asked him what happened to the
NSP120 tank coating I used as a barrier years ago on A-338. It has become a pauloman
brand (something new!) called Watergard 300 one coat. It's sold as a coating for tanks
and as a barrier coat. Loads of info on his site and the coating. It is its own primer, and
already white. He probably told me to use the old tank coat as a barrier...

Ask him whether you can overcoat without toothing. Recommend at least three on a full
keel bottom!! Make sure coating is non-blush.* No professional coating will require you
to wash cured surface before adding the next coat. That's a fact! *Later Edit: you know,
rereading this, it occurs to me I read this coating will blush at certain times. Watch your
humidity. If it's low in relation to temp, you won't have a problem.

COATING THICKNESS: 1000mils = 1" Gelcoat was probably 20mils ???
{Credit card is 30mils thick.}
1/16" = 62.5 mils(two mm) --- 1/32" = 31.25 mils(one mm) --- 1/64" = 15.6 mils.
Average thickness of two part 100% solids, epoxy coating, too thick to roll = 8mils ???
(hope this is useful)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~
When I was trying to figure out weights involved with various bowsprit materials,
I started with long pole sprits that I've always found sexy. Mental picture of a pre
fiberglass gaff cutter. But when sweating weights, ended up with a shortened sprit
on deck -- which is possible when the sprit is rigged as a permanent part of the stay
system. Could remove inboard weight, keep the outboard length, but move the
'samson post' way forward. The post meaning, where you have the end of the spar
at refusal. Understand it's an aesthetic problem as well as practical, but imco our
boats are rather delicate when it comes to added weight out at the ends. Believe
you will have some beautiful welding to do when you incorporate the oval tube into
the bow stay fitting = more weight. Bobstay and any anchoring roller, chocks and
pulpit. But it IS a champion bowsprit you got there!!!

[carbonsoup]

A quick thanksgiving update to the bowsprit. The basic idea is that the stem head fitting will be bolted down to the bow in the usual manner and the bowsprit will bolt to the top of the stem head fitting via 3, 1/2x13 bolts. I have yet to figure out the 'cranse iron' which will be welded to the end of the bowsprit to attach the shrouds and bobstay. Since the bowsprit is bolted I can modify or replace if necessary.

Also, near the 'sampson post' I will have a fitting to accept a removable solent stay for heavy weather. This is not going to be a cutter rig, however I want the option for a smaller sail in heavy weather. The top of solent stay would be attached near the masthead, so that I would not need to have running backstays.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/IMG_5096_zpsnfrqzvb3.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/IMG_5096_zpsnfrqzvb3.jpg.html)

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/IMG_5097_zps10xhys7q.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/IMG_5097_zps10xhys7q.jpg.html)

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/IMG_5211_zpsr6xy1qv9.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/IMG_5211_zpsr6xy1qv9.jpg.html)

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q692/a97triumph/IMG_5212_zpscgqtrbo9.jpg (http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a97triumph/media/IMG_5212_zpscgqtrbo9.jpg.html)

[Bisquit]

Very Cool. Why don't you make it an articulating prod? You can pivot on the headstay post.

[ebb]

Seem to be out of the loop here. But I've been looking at the Trogear A-sprit. Two tubes
ideally coming from the bow slightly below the toe rail frpm either side of the bow. Can
be mounted on top. The A frame legs have only 15 degrees of separation, making it quite
narrow. Have not trialed with mockups but believe it won't go much further inboard than
12/14", where it will have a fiberglass tube and a long 1/2" bolt from side to side so that
the sprit canbe raised and bungeed to the stay. Has a 1/2 bolt thru holding the Sprit
weighs 5lbs.

The bobstay is shown in the literature is a modern guntackle - led aft to the cockpit! In
preliminary emails with Trogear, it is possible even to have a 'simple' rod bobstay, no
turnbuckle and chain. Don't know yet how actually it's rigged. But like the simplicity.

My mast has what I think is a true Solent tang about 18" below the masthead fitting.
That stay will go to the stem fitting. Think it possible to rig this stay permanently,not
readily removable. And have reefer/furlers on both stays, or a hanked on staysl and self
contained asymetricals or screechers with their own attached furlers...?

Also, the top long bronze bolt of the original stem fitting that goes thru the fitting to pop
out conveniently on deck is the strongest method I've ever seen. I had mine recast with a
fatter five-hole fin to take pin and stay loads better. Original toggle holes were elongated.


Those Trogear A-sprits are extravagant. Already have a self designed aluminum sprit that
I really like. But it's too heavy for the bow, too much for the boat. Shave 20lbs first off
on bowsprit alone. 5lbs, or more, on lighter bobstay gear. Anchor gear on deck will be
easier and maybe lighter with the bowsprit free and not part of foredeck clutter.

If I keep the hinge-up option for the A-sprit, the sprit can be folded up to pulpit making
sail attachment and retrieving easy. Something recent events make quite necessary.
"Easy does it, and if you can't go easy, go as easy as you can." Gertrude Stein

Couple coats Aluthane will make that $$$$$ snooty black carbon tube look like a good ole
aluminum spar!! Imco.


CARBONSOUP________________________________________ __________________________________
From the future: 10/19/21
The Trogear wishbone bowsprit is indeed an expensive and gorgeous piece of work. And
I did coat it with that amazing Aluthane, to me still great inventions. Hasse cruising sails
still need a bowsprit but also a place for an anchor-roller. Trogear allows no space for a
cruising anchor system - it had to go.
It's taken me literally FOREVER to get Litlgull ready to leave the Bay. I've stopped work
an embarrasing number of times. I've gotten older as well.
But discovered the dream is in my blood. There's nothing else but declining in a rocking
chair. End as a nasty curmudgeon with alzheimers or parkingsons or canser. 1/2 way there.

Urge Skipper Soup, below in these posts, to immediately launch A97 ang go sailing. Spruce
the ship up a bit - that would attract a partner.
Our Ariels and Commanders are foremost a form of ENERGY, Carbon you can't quit now!!!!!

[carbonsoup]

wow, that is a nifty bowsprit, though I dont see what the pivot is about. The Trogear is a pretty nice bit of kit as well. However, I am making a permanent bowsprit for the forestay. Currently, I have decided to set the distance at 18" from the bow, nothing extreme. As I said, I am trying to balance the rig a bit without having to shorten the sail area... some of you all are probably rolling your eyes. Nonetheless, I work at a metal fab shop and so far this little experiment has cost me nothing.

as a side note.. I am taking on more side work (design & fabrication) as I begin transitioning myself towards opening my own shop, so if any of you guys have some fab work let me know. For example, one thing I was thinking of making extra are some SS trim rings for the aluminum opening ports. The cast aluminum trim rings that I have are in many pieces. I am going to laser cut 12ga SS ovals... when I get a chance

[ebb]

Talk about nifty. Laser cut, I don't know the machine. Is it like a CNC that you program with
a computer / Shop here has one of those (personally don't know how to program any
computer) but it cuts with regular milling bits. What I'm asking: can you program individual
jobs? I had my aluminum opening ports powder coated. Because the coating is relatively
thick the trim ring now no longer slips over the spigot. Everything could remain the same
spec but the inside oval has to be slightly bigger, maybe a 1/32" all round. Would you
provide the fastener holes also?

The Troger A-Sprit can be mounted on deck, or as it happens, on the molded toerails, at
that height. That means one can micro adjust how much the bowsprit will project out.
They have end fittings. The preferred way is to mount the A-frame outside of the toerails.
Because the A-Sprit 15degree angle is not adjustable, that means because it is narrow it
is fastened pretty much forward on the bow. And down enough so the a fiberglass tube is
glassed in thru the bow (when you look into the forepeak you'll see it). A long bolt, possibly
threaded rod holds and hinges the spirit on, so it pivots. Or you can permanently mount it.

I had some preliminary email discussion with one of the A-Sprit designsers about permanently
mouinting the sprit. My thought is that carbon tubes are not really good in compression.
So I understand. But did get qan OK to use their thicker wall tube model... at a thicker
price. But then it occurred to me to axe the Solent idea, and use the inner forestay to rig
that mast at higher tensions.. And use the jibstay with light weather larger sails with the
sheet winches. Like the idea of folding the sprit up to the pulpit and attaching or removing
sails. And paying less for footage rent in marinas.

Best of luck with your new business!!!

[Commander 147]

You start making S.S. port lites I might be interested in a set.

[carbonsoup]

ugh. its been a while since i have worked on the boat, even though I see it everyday sitting in my shop. Even more annoying is Photobucket forcing me to pay for 3rd party hosting of all the build images.... so lame. I was emailed by a gentleman who wanted to see some of the images of the build, I had not put 2+2 together to figure out why he was not able to view the images on the forum.

anyone have a silver bullet? if someone can give me a good solution I swear I will do some work on the boat!

[carbonsoup]

Man, it has been forever! thank god Photobucket hasnt completely deleted my photos....

However, because I wanted to share ALL of the photos, models, drawings and data of the rebuild of A97 I have uploaded them to to my google drive.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1reBXSG4gepAlZ5V5gcn1dOzfebXdn5vh?usp=sharing

Contents:

1 - Spec Drawings (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/138f5LJ9AyjkK8Aa7ODPZAMDTAUzqiOPs?usp=sharing)
cleaned up original "lines" drawings
vector files of the "lines" drawings
original/novel interior drawings
3D models

2 - Construction photos (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1OGRKjFY0NC47MBMARmGpt4V-Hj6cXFRM?usp=sharing)
pretty self explanatory

3 - Electric Conversion (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FlL90YPaiBMZ6Q25OOztRn-h3t0CaiMs?usp=sharing)
Useful calculator and electric info (as of 2014)
Custom electric drive mount (drawings and model)

4 - Logo Emblem (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1wIvasaCieXtjSJDtWEXNpRQRFyDEHgWf?usp=sharing)
Original Ariel emblem pattern in PDF (vector file editable with adobe illustrator)
various logo images

5 - Rigging (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TotRRuzyB33LOkZMZa136ab6e_IG3-Nh?usp=sharing)
v1 New mast head sheave box designed by Destiny (mike)
v2 Newest mast head design with "over-under" sheave placement.
Other various rigging info

7 - Trailer (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p_LM7rBL7bRzWomRl8tI4u4ET3sh7PeM?usp=sharing)
Trailer design and info
construction images

8 - 1960s Brochure (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1f6PqcVwNLmNIJw_F4-QRYCBIEATyBMyg?usp=sharing)
Original artwork and brochure of the pearson ariel

9 - Previous Owners (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1GYVoujzeLhq7HiAmnDu1kP2wyCRJSXd-?usp=sharing)
1st and 2nd owner images

[carbonsoup]

I guess it would be obvious, but I havent had the opportunity to work on the boat in a very long time. It has been sitting in storage for the last 2 years.... and I dont think I will be returning to finish the job unless I get some renewed motivation. If someone is interested to purchase or partner in completing the project please dont hesitate to contact me. The boat is ready to roll (anywhere in the country).


best, matt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j2VdX7YpaO9_pX3vpng4hnV6CQQ2I6eE/view?usp=sharing

The retrofit, list, in no particular order:
1. Interior completely deleted and replaced with a unique design suitable for two to cruise Maine to the Bahamas. all interior plywood Okume BS1088 marine grade plywood. Sleeping for 4 (1 bunk under cockpit, large double in main salon, 1 bunk in bow) 85% complete
2. Retrofitted Four-Winns trailer motor boat trailer (2 axle w/disk brakes and pivoting tongue) 100% complete
3. Custom electric drive mount w/ 8.5K electric motor (complete electric motor kit has been mounted and test fit, but never tested/run), 75%
4. new PPY no drip drive shaft, 100%
5. new cutlas bearing, 100%
6. hull/deck seam fiberglassed, 100%
7. deck recored (previous owner), 100%
8. new stainless steel prop shaft, 100%
9. 3 blade (12x) prop, 100%
10. new main 4:1 sheet w/curved main sheet traveler, ready for mount
11. curved jib sheet tracks, ready for mount
12. rudder, completely new w/original bronze tiller shaft. needs final fiber and fairing. 90%
13. mail sail, brand new (used a dozen times) Beacon Sails in Annapolis
14. hull mounted chain plates (interior), 90%

Extras:
1. I started designing / fabricating a bowsprit (18”) from 316 Stainless steel to help with the weather helm.


What she needs:
1. rebuild cockpit coamings. I have 5/4 mahogany planks ready with pattern.
2. complete wiring, including electric drive integration and batteries.
3. needs all new lighting
4. electric drive testing
5. Remounting of all the original hardware
7. The boat needs top side paint and deck painted.
Basically, I would like to “finish” the boat by getting the boat ready to drop in the water. After that, it would be up to you to finish the interior and get the rest of the systems running.

How much:
1. I have no idea.
2. I might be interested in partnerships….