Step #3 Shows the plug during fairing before getting the white sanding primer the inside received.
Step #3 Shows the plug during fairing before getting the white sanding primer the inside received.
What progress since 08 (or is that 02) of '04, ebb? (Apparently, I am date-ually challenged on this Forum... or I'd be heading south onboard Scirocco about now, right, Bill?
) I'm especially interested in what has been going on with your interior. #370 will need strongback replacement (as part of a General Replacement of Everything), and I've been considering doing similar to what you've done. If your Non-Bulkheaded Interior is patented and considered Intellectual Property, maybe I'll put a compression post in instead of the massive strongback you created.
I guess that there will be a new Gallery thread of the work on #370 starting soon - I'm about to go spread sail all over the lawn for perusal and note-taking. Have a compass and some sheet blocks here to clean up. Pitiful little projects when compared to the volumes of work being done North and West of here, but all that I have on hand for the next 6 weeks until The Adventure Begins...
Kurt
Last edited by CapnK; 01-31-2005 at 10:20 AM.
Kurt: ah - h h - h e m:
Don't have no stinkon pattent. EVERYTHING I have said or done has been to generate discussion first and to record what has been done right or wrongly to Ariel 338. I yam what I yam, not expert, just sharing for the good of the order, thusly. And very fortunate to be part of this forum.
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With a pipe compression post I hear you get a great handhold to swing around into the v-berth. It would be a great challenge to be rid of the compression bulkhead (almost) entirely. There'ld be some elegant engineering to do to neutralize the forces of the upper shrouds and mast. But IF that was satisfied maybe an enclosable head could be snuck in there. The framing of the head providing some more immobilizing support under the mast as well. Might consider and plan the 'off center' bulkheading as changed location compression bulkhead. Every piece of furniture you buildin (a shelf, eg) is structural. And you could play with the head enclosure maybe by building it out at right angles to the hull at least in the v-berth side, rather than off the station lines of the architect's drawing - make for more friendly looking space in the remaining berth. Go for it.
Last edited by ebb; 01-31-2005 at 06:24 PM.
NOTICE! MORE PHOTOS COMING
We just finished a photo shoot and update meeting at Ebb's quality yacht barn in beautiful San Rafael, CA. Temp has soared into the low 60's just to accommodate us
Photos with some written details will follow soon. Editing is next . . .
Here's a photo of Ebb's engineering table where the enhancements for 338 are created
A copper bottom . . really. Epoxy loaded with powdered copper and then "painted" onto the bottom of the boat. Ebb has agreed to supply the formula upon request.
Here's a view of the liner where it meets the top of the main companionway.
Last edited by Bill; 02-01-2005 at 10:11 AM.
Here is the mockup for the new main hatch slide. The rails shown are mockups and the final location will be placed closer to the hatch. One reason for the new rails is Ebb's search for more headroom . .
Gotta get back to the design center (see above) and work on editing the rest of the photos . . .
Proposed hatch rail/slides go full length to the break and will also have the removable seahood mounted on them. The design will have a water relief channel on the inside running along where the original molding rises.Since these here are wood forms intended to make female molds into which the final frp pieces will be laminated, the resulting pieces will be easy to trim lower if necessary. They look rather tall, I like the ones you see on the Cape Dory 25.
Really like the original curved hatch. But am thinking of a light-emitting, flat lexan slider riding on teflon on the lower rabbet with the traditional metal keeper on top. {A flat surface for a map or a sandwich and salad. Just a flat surface!!] If I curved the hatch I would gain headroom, but flat it's only about an inch gained! The real purpose is to protect the slider from being striped off by a comber, assuming the rails can take it.
Last edited by ebb; 02-01-2005 at 10:57 AM.
Cool! Is this an alternative to alblative bottom paint - a more "permanent" solution? Bottom painting sucks.Originally Posted by Bill
A copper bottom . . really. Epoxy loaded with powdered copper and then "painted" onto the bottom of the boat. Ebb has agreed to supply the formula upon request.
All I know is hearsay. It works in cooler waters, better the further north you are. No good in the tropics. Said to keep barnacles off in SFBay, but weed will form. Depends if the basin you're in flushes well. too. Brand name Copperpoxy (www.copperpoxy.com), said to have 60% copper powder in a two-part epoxy putty like material. It is rediculously expensive ($300 gal, no kidding). Make your own with 'Low Vis' epoxy and copper powder ($14 a #) at 1/4 to 1/3 the price from epoxyproducts.com. The site and the owner are user friendly and flog highend and safer material. The website is worth your time and a lot of fun.
I put three coats of potable water white epoxy on my mottled bottom, if later we get down to pure white, that's the 'gelcoat'. I thought it a great product and used it also in the belly tank under the cabinsole. A 100% solids material.
Now when it came to the 5 coats (I think) of made copper/epoxy I started with less powder and added more each time, up to 35% I believe. (Well the first coat was too thick and sticky and tore the rollers apart depositing sponge bits over the entire surface, easy to sand off but not recommended.) Low Vis goes off quicker than what I'm used to, but it worked out fine doing one side at a time. The effect it had is quite astonishing, after the second coat it was like a dog fight for the crowd it gathered in the marina. Shows how bored people can get!
Adding the copper makes the epoxy thicker, I just worked with what I liked to roll on without tipping and fast, FAST. The powder and the epoxy are the same weight, so there is no separation or settling out after mixing. After eight coats ( just kept going till the powder ran out, saved enuf for the rudder and those bare spots under the keel when the blocks were moved.), I don't think it's built up a 1/16th of an inch. But I always tried to add a little more on the stem and under the keel. And it is ALL barrier coat anyway. Did lite quick sanding between coats: scratching. If I put another coat on the next day I felt I didn't need to sand. Sanding knocks off pieces of the roller that get pulled off. This is what you adjust in your mixing to avoid - by the last two coats I'ld got it down!
I guess I'll see what happens at my first haulout. Supposed to hose it off and drop it back in. Maybe a diver can brush the growth off in the water. Cheaper? Do it by self? ScotchBrite pad scrub? Do know there is a fine barrier coat on 338's bottom. Copper/epoxy said to enhance ablative longevity and strength when you must paint. Will avoid sanding. But it would be fantastic not to have to ablative anymore!
Both epoxys mentioned here are 100% solids, no solvents. But I do keep a quart can of xynol handy. Tablespoons of the solvent will loosen up stuff too sticky or heavy, and may give a couple more minutes of working time. Mixed 24 oz per side, but don't quote me, it left some in the liner pan which just got hard and left in the pan for the next time.
[Notice in the upper left portion of the copper photo (Pg 11 - #156) a faint incised line caught by the light. That's the original scribe line in the gel coat showing thru, left there on purpose. That shows you can't hide no sins after eight coats. The white coats are very thin.]
Last edited by ebb; 02-08-2005 at 04:18 PM.
That is astonishing. I'm slack-jawed.
Sea Hood too!
Hmmmmmmm........Sea Hood. I must have one.
Ladies and Gentlemen. Step right up and view the very latest in hutches to cover hatches.
#1 Hutch formed with urethane insulation foam
#2 Foam covered in double knit "old man's cotton underwear"
#1 Two coats hi-build epoxy sanding prime with channels cut for lid
#2 PVC channel ready to be epoxied into channels
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