A-228 - GEOFF's AUSSIE PHOTO GALLERY

[Bill]

Tony G,

Thanks for your vote of confidence, Tony. The sub-sole fuel tank is indeed constructed of plywood with two layers of 3/4 oz matt and at least two coats of resin applied over the lot, sanding between coats. I didn't know you could do that either, but the word is, it works if you give the epoxy about 12 weeks to cure. Same with the water tanks. If you fill the tanks before the full cure, the water will be tainted with epoxy taste, but that clears after awhile.

All exposed plywood below decks will be veneered in Tasmanian oak, trimmed with teak and varnished. Some plywood with a decent grain, e.g. underside of doghouse roof, will be epoxied and then varnished.

As far as headroom goes, I didn't place much importance on it. I go below to sleep, eat & poo, all sit down jobs. I spend (or used to spend) most of my time in the cockpit, or the beer garden. My height is or was 5' 10-3/4", since I broke my legs, I am 5' 9-1/2" on my right leg and 5' 10-34" on my left leg. It seems the boat is always listing to port or starboard depending on whether I'm facing forward or aft

[Bill]

Ebb,

G'day Ebb, yes you can see the slump, starboard side at the stern. It don't slump now, and will never even twitch again. I called her the sick sadistic twisted *****, for awhile, buy only in private

I don't know about moving the head aft, I just moved it about 3 feet from portside and a quarter turn to face aft and there it is. The main bulkhead to me is the bulkhead beteen the saloon and forward cabin. It supports the mast. (Well, it does now since I fixed it.)

Thanks for your comments Ebb, I didn't know I was capable of inspiring anyone. I'm just a babe-in-the-woods when it comes to boat building, or any other building for that matter. I did take a carpenter course a few years ago. Signed up to make kitchen cupboards, etc. The teacher said my project was a little ambitious for a first try, so I made a table tennis bat (ping pong paddle - ha).

The cockpit drains are constructed from thick wall plumber pipe and glassed over. Since your comments, I will put another couple of layers of matt over them.

I don't like the idea of a hatch in the cockpit floor. I dont' see what could fly around in there. There will only be the engine and starter battery, both well secured.

I like the idea of a diesel below decks. I have been sitting in UHURU's cockpit up to the chest in white water. I don't know if an outboard would have kept going, and if the engine had stopped, if I would be here to tell the tale. Mind you, I believe she crossed the Pacific with an outboard, and the diesel was fitted in OZ.

About my aft cockpit drains, you say "treat it like the rudder tube." How the hell do you treat the rudder tube?

Reading that last bit, it sounds like a stupid question. Hi Ebb, I'm Pommy Geoff -

[Bill]

There are a couple of photographs to post, as soon as they are scanned. Soon.

[Bill]

Geoff was asked about all the fires raging in Australia.

"The fires are way to the south, NSW (New South Wales) and ACT(?). The whole of NSW is drought declared. As is most of Qld (Queensland). Since this cyclone, the situation has eased, but by no means solved our problems. We've lost our whole population of frogs. They were 2-1/2 years old and couldn't swim. Never seen water in their lives, all gone."

[ebb]

Brisbane known for its white water, Goeff? One of these days me and 338 be down to git some!
338's rudder tube is impressively molded into a cone shape where it charges thru the hull, that's a treat. Where it goes thru into the cockpit, that's an unfinished story. I'm about to add some cone shape to it of mishmash and x-mat. You may have thru hulls for your aft cockpit drains - 338 gets 2 1/2" glass tubes directly glassed in, like the rudder tube - hence the elaborate conical build up especially at the underwater entrances. This won't be a whimpy installation.

In the beginning, the cockpit being a floater, I worried about that tube goiing thru the deck - now the whole cockpit is welded to the bulkheads it floated between. It will be further immobilized with the two forenaft bulkheads between the bottom and the hull. Looks like Uhuru has the same.

I've also laminated a transvers beam and glued it in under the bridge deck against the bulkhead. After taking the icebox out I cut a similar hole in the port side for access to the under cockpit area. Somebody is going to remind us how important this bulkhead is, if not yours truly.
At least on the port side where I think a mini quarter berth is cool there will be a fat rib going down the hull, incorporated into the berth and continuing down into the keel. (This is a lot of unsupported 'flat' laminate down here I'm unhappy with.) Probably add a couple layers of x-mat - but keep the space essentially hollow for bilge water capacity.

At the moment it looks like the port lazarette on 338 will remain cockpit accessible. It looks like Geoff's outside stowage is the way aft laz.

[I've ordered a 'watertight' Anchor Hatch for the cockpit well deck and will mount the batteries in an open topped tray down under where the BETA shouldda been. Had a tuff email exchange with the Hatch salesperson when I asked him just how waterproof watertight was.
"All commercial boats have bildge pumps in all areas under decks...
..."you will have a leak ..if a small rock or a grain of sand or a fish scale gets lodged between the gasket and the frame." Being a dumass pleasure boater I better put in a pump and sweep up the rocks. Just kidding! They have a flush hatch that fits the floor and will custom fit 3 grp 27s for unimpeded straight up lift out. Englund Marine Supply.

Does anybody know why I need three AGMs?]

[Bill]

And now, we have a photo of our Aussie member. This was taken (according to the note on the back) at an Xmas party.

[Bill]

And of course, here is another photo of Geoff's boat. Different angle, this time.

[Bill]

And here's the stove Geoff installed.

[Bill]

After a bit of a delay, Geoff writes:

I have been too busy lately. I bought a 22 seater bus at Easter, took the seats out and put a "fit out" in it. She's a beaut, 92 Toyota Coaster long wheelbase, 6 cylinder diesel motor, fully air conditioned, headroom and comfort!

At the moment I am parked in Bayfield Forest, just north of Yeppoon. Had a swim in the creek, sat around the campfire. No phone signal, no radio, no power. It's been bliss for a few days.

Heading back to civilisation and the bloody boat yard tomorrow (or not HA!). I'm working on my own on the boat now, can't get anyone to take it on. One bloke "spat the dummy" and went home after 2 days. The next bloke worked well for 3 days, but I couldn't get him started on the 4th day. I wasn't any better myself, so we both went home. HA!

At the moment, my jobs are to put fillets of epoxy bog around all the staunchion pads under the side decks inside, sand smooth and paint. Cut about 200 bolts off because they are too long. I'm painting the cockpit lockers, battery shelves have been built to take 200 amp hour batteries - one port, one starboard, lazarette needs painting as does under the cockpit. I still have to put a shelf in for the engine starter battery, and build a dashboard accross the doghouse above the companionway hatch to house the compass on the centreline, engine dials and controls to port, depth sounder, log and GPS to starboard. Install the engine and rudder, wire her up, do the plumbing and go sailing -- NO WORRIES ME OLD COBBER.

Honestly, I reckon it's the hardest and most frustrating task I've ever set myself. But, the little darling is worth it, she's a hell of a boat.

[Second installment coming tomorrow]

[Bill]

"UHURU" is progressing well, albeit very slowly. I've put new windows
in the saloon. Planned to use the existing frames, but on removal they
were rotted and cracked and literally fell apart. So, I filled the gap
in the cabinside with epoxy glue and reinforced the edge with 2-inch
tape all around - two layers inside and out. Then bolted 10mm (just
less than 1/2") perspex (a clear plastic). I used the same method for
the side windows on the doghouse, using 6mm perspex. I don't think it
looks real "flash," but it was comparatively cheap when compared with
new frames and toughened glass. I used a sunlight UV resistant bedding
compound and it is neat but not flash, but super strong.

[Bill]

The insulation for the fridge is glassed in place and work has started
on the rails and stanchions. The pushpit will extend around to the
doghouse. It will be possible to have a firm grip on a handrail on top
of the doghouse with one hand, and a grip on a solid rail with the
other. I've had some interesting moments getting back to the cockpit
after reefing, or escaping from an unfriendly anchorage, with just a
wobbly pram hood and a thin wire for the cockpit. She will also have a
targa bar, supporting antennaes and solar panels - two 50 watt'ers.

[Bill]

It's been about ten months since we've had something to post from Geoff. It appears that his mail was going a bit astray

Let's begin with the mast. Geoff has added a few steps . . .

[Bill]

Here are the windows. Geoff writes:

"The original window frames fell apart so I just bolted 10 mm plastic directly to the cabin sides on a bed of UV resistant silicone - easy and cheap. The plastic conformed to the strengthened cabinsides as the bolts were tightened. I actually tightened the bolts too much and squeezed too much bedding compound out. Shouldn't leak. Just looks a bit odd. It's a black compound and you can see the white paint through it in the thin spots. Not the pure black border I wanted."

[Bill]

Here's a view of the hard dodger from the bow with it's new white paint.

[Bill]

Other direction toward the bow pulpit. Note how far the rails extend aft.