(Enlisted a photographer friend to compress a number of litlgull 'process' photos
to send to Bill for editing and ensertion into the gallery. Progress on boat.)
(Enlisted a photographer friend to compress a number of litlgull 'process' photos
to send to Bill for editing and ensertion into the gallery. Progress on boat.)
ebb
Really looking forward to seeing the photos. Can't wait
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
Last edited by ebb; 03-20-2013 at 02:59 PM.
These six photo composition pages all loaded smaller than meant to.
[ OK, screwed up. This is a first try at posting photos. This a group of six compositions.
They all loaded together like newborn puppies. So you will have to bear with us on this. The first Comp 1 is the first three photos, which I was told I had to text before blindly uploading. microsoft medieval managing]
Notice the 1/2" wood dowel in the top photo in relation to the level balanced on the track-flat?.....
That's how w a y off Pearson drilled holes for the spreader sockers & lowers..!
Next two shots show a sliding box jig marked with center-lines and hole locations. Multi-purpose.
The interior dimensions are straight lines, obviously, makes it real easy to find, for instance, the center line of the mast extrusion. Sides and front! Can be used to lay out any straight line along the mast, not just centers.
For example: not only were the factory spreader cup brackets crooked HORIZONTALLY - as seen by the wonkus dowel - but also VERTICALLY. Top bolt not in line with the bottom bolt. And not only that: the brackets weren't 'installed' on the centerline of the mast! Too radical to fix THAT. Can't blame it on a DFO, only four bolt holes showed when the mast was taken apart. Can see on the left foto of the box jig how OFF CENTER the oversized bolthole is. A compromise fix - because of the midmast concentration of fittings and holes.
There aren't too many 1/2" holes in the mast, guanantee matching 90degree guide holes in the sleeve jig were drilled on the drillpress - 3/4" ply sides stacked - before it was assembled. Obvious, but it works.
Photo on the right shows how the top pair of crooked holes were fixed OK by offset drilling using the jig with more alined larger ones. The larger hole fits a 3/4"OD-1/2"ID s.s. compression tube that the bolt for the lowers slips thru. Cut & polish the ends square for washers and tangs to seat on!
The tang's bolt in the tube can not be tightened so much as to deform the mast, because thread-end provides refusal. The tube also is a bearing in that it increases surface area for the active pulling on the bolt by the four lowers. Thought this a good solution because the new spreader bar, just above the lower shrouds, floats in its thru hole - using the slip-on spreaders mounted tight against the outside of the mast to keep the system from shifting.
Sleeve box jig is also a pattern for routing the 2"R quarter circle (out of the front 1/3 of the 6" length of the mast section) for SantaCruz/HuntingtonBeach FORWARD mast lowering. Jig also locates the off-set 'hinge' bolt that the Ballenger tabernacle requires. The mast rolls on its bottom for which a 3" thick G-10 insert to share mast load is provided (not shown.) Tabernacle is the essense of simplitity.
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...............................................
Next four same size mast shots, from left to right:
1) Shows bar that hollow airfoil spreaders slip over. Also the new 3/4" tang-bolt hole for the lowers.
2) Shows the new Louchard Delrin sheave and new welded sleeve being fitted. Darker gray is reconstruction material on the track side of the mast at the head, and metal filler used to fair 45 years of squeezing & corrosion by the sheave bolt nut - that also tangs the upper shrouds that keep the mast up.
3) Opposite view of the sleeve. Jig was used at the mast head to check Pearson's hole drilling and slot cutting expertise. Good job there!
Helped layout the widened slot on the front side of the mast. Track flat side widening is a no-brainer.
New sleeve (with welded top & bottom pieces) bears on mast, provides extra support for the hard working 1/2" bolt. Imco, sleeve improves structure at the top of the mast by supporting sheave where the bolt load is. Except for the bolt, no other fastenings to keep it easy to disassemble for inside access.
4) Prepped mast mid-section just befor painting. Shows filled upper bolthole, and location of new spreaders in relation to the original double bolts.
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............................................
Next group: two shots of mishmash molding set-up for winch bases - cheekblock bases - and inside/outside electrical fairing fitting (meant to created a waterproof wire continuity thru mast and thru deck (not shown.) mylar and p.ethylene dimensional sheet provide mold release.
Shot with blue tape shows already hard inside/outside cookies taped together for drilling. The hole saw (actually two holesaws) were used (not on the mast there!) to make the thru-mast pad rings for the white Maralon thru-hull.
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .............................................
[Sorry about the size. Zooming to 150% helps with the photos.]
Set of five showing the ballet of getting the famous Wichard Solent Stay Tang INTO the mast - thru that narrow slot. The two part butterfly tang is ingenious and French and customizable all at the same time. If anybody is interested in this, maybe we can figure out how to enlarge this set.....
1) Where to place the extra forestay? How we gonna run the fall from the masthead sheave?
2) Shows that when the tang is slipped into the slot, both flanges have sharp corners bearing on the mast inside that must be rounded over. Stainless wins over Aluminum every time. (A good portion of this fitting lives permanently inside the mast - any grinding must be buffed to a high polish to reduce chance corrosion that can't be seen.)
3) Showing that result.
4) Helpful scale drawing shows the tang as it will be when inside the mast - to accurately locate the offset for eight fastening holes that have to be drilled into the mast from outside. Fitting comes with holes already drilled in the flange(s) - they were redrilled and tapped for 1/4-28 machine screws. Holes in mast drilled for a slip fit.
5) Made easy hole drilling..... missed one anyway!
The diameter of that large hole for the stay (have seen pics of this tang with smaller diameter shackle pin holes) is 18.43mm[23/32"]
It requires a bronze bushing for any normal sized shackle or clevis pin. My rig terminates in 7/16" pins. Catalog McMasterCarr: 7811K17. Alloy 660 Sleeve Bearing for 12mmshaft[15/32"]. 18mmOD[23/32"]. Bushing length is 15/32", actually this 'width' fits snugly inside 7/16" strap-toggles. And bears well enough in the 1/4" thick hole of the tang's double plate.
Tang connecting pins, shackles, toggles will always hang straight. Good for a Solent stay that will be loose and tensioned intermittently.
Imco, the concept genius of the Wichard stay tang is how it mounts INSIDE the mast - depending on no outside mast fastenings to hang it. Does want those fastenings to lock in the narrow 2-part tang, and keep it from being pulled down the mast. Consider the Solent a backup forestay.
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............................................
Last three (reduced size) photos show the roll & tip mast. Numerous Aluthane and System3 WRLPU coats result in little buildup. Mast could almost be a new anodized stick. Little shot shows chain dragged thru the interior on the track side to break off worms from track hole filling. Some idea of a successful refurbish of the multi holed flat - and rebuild to top of mast. Jib-block tang won't go back there, unless a new design is made that gets support from the sides of the mast - it's not full restoration.
Last edited by ebb; 03-24-2014 at 10:07 AM.
Comp 6.
This set of shots shows a number of Specter 150/200 Ventura desalinator modules fitted with
hose specific plywood mounting cases. They are meant to help protect vulnerable units from damage
and also hold connecting hoses in a way that won't allow kinking or pulling, with best access to hose clamps - & filter changing.
Left side, un-assembled. Right side, ready to be mounted vertically on bulkheads in & around the forward dinette seat locker.
Imco the construction style of these cases generates from the facinating & unfamiliar STITCH&GLUE method of kyack and tender building (Ken Littledyke INV, see wikipedia).....
Where thin high-grade plywood is assembled by bending precut shapes and binding their edges by butting them together and holding them with wire thru adjacent holes.
The resulting wire stitched compound shape is epoxy-gel glued at a number of strategic places to hold the intended shape. Then the stitches are removed, the weld points cleaned up, and the full length of the butted seams filled and filleted with thickened epoxy. The filleting is deliberately kept smooth and fair. Cure until firm. Then the whole surface of BOTH SIDES of the 3D shape gets covered with light weight fabric, usually 4 - 6oz fiberglass. This technical quantum leap makes very strong monoque structure for its weight. [an experiment with the method at: TENDER by EBB - Or The WayWide (sic) in Technical forum]
DESCRIPTION
Top two photos. End of system diverter valve: with many choices for in/out tube connect. This simple (no 'off' position) p.propylene valve is the sampling tap AND the product water on-route from desalinator to storage. Brine waste is led directly overboard thru another fitting, usually to a valve at a thruhull.
Next object: primary strainer for incoming seawater. First module after the saltwater seacock.
(Center bottom: thru hose fitting for mast electrics (nothing to do with desalinator) with the fairing plates Aluthaned, ready to install.)
Middle: 5 and 20 micron filters, at the moment without a cover.
Little black pig is the accumulator which provides steady pressure from the (black) pump shown
in the last picture: Inlet seawater pump module. Fresh water charcoal filter for system flushing - service valve on the center white metal frame - and black feed pump to micron filters that deliver clean salt water to the Clark Pump Intensifier, ie the reverse osmosis membrane that makes the drinking water. (not shown, as this much larger mod is installed on its own dedicated shelf in the V-berth.) Where the hell to put all this stuff?
Boxes are strategically cap-screwed inside the forward starboard seat locker walls - with nuts on the inside. Modules are similarly mounted to their case, allowing removal of both at once or just the module. Pressure hose is reinforced clear vinyl - stiff and not very friendly.
Inlet pump module needs air circulation & access - so it's installed athwartship outside the forward seat locker in the dinette kick space. Sliced off corner fits against the hull.
3 SECRETS
These little boxes are all right angled - require no stitching and no fasteners. Pieces are propped together with blocks of lumber or anything handy - for initial gluing.. The idea is to get a predetermined 3D shape by buttering edges with small amounts of thickened goop, letting it set. When you stick together 2-3-4 sided open units, you can easily pull generous (approx 1/2"R) fillets on all inside corners - using a 2oz plastic syringe to apply controlled worms of thickened epoxy. The COVE FILLET is the first secret of this construct. The glue is 100% solids, no-blush, 2:1 laminating epoxy, mixed with fumed-silica. Slow hardener. (TAP Plastics, Premium Laminating Epoxy)
The second secret: After full or partial fillet cure, lay in a SINGLE LAYER OF FIBERGLASS coverng the whole inside surface to tie flats and verticals together. Use a pliable (green) spreader to keep the amount of liquid lean and press the fabric onto the plywood. Butt join fabric pieces on flats when you have to. Arrange cloth at 45 degrees (diagonally) to get it to turn corners. Isn't easy but sure is a lot of fun. Cure.
[Difficult to explain how to apply cloth. Cut to very loose fit - arrange it in dry - then stick it on - wet it out - by dabbing with loaded brush. Try not to pull weave of fabric too much out of shape while teasing it into corners when going from horizontal to vertical. Get frisky with Fiskars cutting out 'V' darts in corners. Cut wet fabric for accuracy. Gently pull it off the wood, cut out the offender, paste it back in place.
OR make a single cut into the corner - down the middle of too much fabric - and just lap it over on itself, covering over the cove fillets.
Light weight fabric has very little thickness (1/32") when wet, and lap joins pretty much disappear... finessing cut edges by gently poking with the brush-tip. Make sure fabric is squeegied tight to the surface of the ply, and itself. Don't forget to wipe the epoxy off your zizzers! Isopropyl alcohol 91% RiteAid.]
After rounding corners and edges, etc. cover the whole outside in a single layer of cloth & epoxy. Let the fabric flop over edges, don't attempt to turn the fabric trying to glue it onto a narrow edge. Run cloth over holes - cut fabric out after set and round holes and edges smooth. Slice off cloth overhangs when dry to touch with utility knife.
Let pieces cure. Detail sand and shape until satisfied. Don't worry about edges not covered with fabric, won't matter. Fill the weave with a second coat of epoxy gel if desired. Leave no ridges. At this time touch-up/seal raw edges with liquid epoxy. Cure. final light sanding overall and paint.
What you see in fotos is one coat of Aluthane - no primer. Because the cases are quite detailed, they look like they might be cast aluminum metal!
The method: covering with glass inside & out over reinforced corners makes an amazing structure, stiffening thin ply, making a seamless cohesive object stronger than any traditional mehod, imco!
The third secret is 6mm or 1/4" MERANTI BS1088 HYDROTECH. Make sure your maranti has the British Standard stamp.
[ I think this technique, including form-fitting to hull curves, using the materials described here, perhaps a size up of plywood and fabric, (if it hasn't been done already!) can be used to fit out a 23-30ft cruising sailboat. Wish I'd done it. Many other uses aboard: light weight bins - lockers - panels - shelves - Dorades - containers of every sort (including lids) can be prefab, primed & painted. If conceived modularly, interior furniture can be installed with fasteners, rather than permanently glued. Nearly everything can be designed removable. A racer day sailor can be transformed into a tricked out weekend camper. And back again.]
Last edited by ebb; 09-07-2013 at 10:25 AM.
Ebb, I am in the process of moving east this next week and it just occurred to me that you are just over the bridge. Are you going to be around the boat on tuesday 5/28? I am actually going sailing on Tuesday from Sausalito and could come over to take a peak. Can you believe I have never been sailing on the bay in nearly 14 years of living in SF?!
Anyway, if you are going to be around and willing to compare notes I would love it. If not, its no big deal, I can still enjoy your work from the web.
Best, matt (carbonsoup, A97)
matt@carbonsoup.com
Capt. Carbon, be great to meet with you.
The boat is up the SanRafael Canal, a good way from great sailing on the Bay,
especially if you're leaving and this is it.
The boat's not back together, it's a mess, altho I'm trying.
We are a poor substitute for a day of sailing on the Bay.
I bet it would be easier to drive up from Sausalito to the SanRafael Yacht Harbor
than sailing or more probably motoring in.....and all the way out again.
And the tides maybe not cooperating.
If it is this week end, and you really have to see this landlocked vessel,
it may be better if you tell me when you can make it?
I'm probably more flexible. Maybe do it Monday or, better, afetr Tuesday next week?
Or this Friday (tomorrow) around noon? Or like early Sat AM befor sailing, or after?
I am up against a renewal deadline for getting the old Dodge truck smogged,
so I have to spend time doing that also.
Send me a phone number on the private message channel if you wish.
Last edited by ebb; 05-23-2013 at 07:32 PM.
C to F...........F to C
EXAMPLE:
25°C......................77°F
x 2 = 50................-32 = 45
- 1/10 = 45...........+ 1/10 = 50
+32 = 77°F...........x ½ = 25°C
.................................................. ..........................................
Challenge is to find an instant step conversion. C to F:
(found on internet - if I locate the source again, I'll post it here.)
F to C: Harder but doable.
Can't think in Centigrade, I'm a Fahrenheit fan.
.................................................. ..........................................
C to F: double C → minus 10% → plus 32 = F (accurate)
F to C: F minus 30 → plus 10% → take half = C (close enough)
.................................................. ..........................................
F is literate.
C is laboratory: at zero water freezes, at 100° water boils.
F zero, it's too frikking cold even in Denmark.
At two digit 32° it's freezing, but you got a chance.
At F 100°, it's getting into a 3-alarm heat wave
(while in C scale, it'll be 37.5° - close to freezing in my book.)
Fahrenheit is a finer tuned scale and more expressive.
98.6° is normal human body temp. 104° it's heat stroke or fever,
a 5.4° spread. For emphasis, it crosses a two to a three digit gradient.
Celsius, it's 37° and 40° - a 3° separation. Fahrenheit says it way better.
Holy centigrade! it's going to be over 37.5° today! ....no, rilly?.....
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fahrenheit is actually a guy's name. Argument is fortified by 'soul'!
Centigrade, could say, has some life... as in centipede, not souled.
Last edited by ebb; 10-30-2017 at 11:41 AM.
conversions
Originally Posted by ebb
EXAMPLE:
In tech school we were required to learn this and also conversion to Kelvin and Rankin. And we had to learn that and a lot of other formulas without the use of a calculator. And I've never needed it since. Nowadays all your digital thermometers will read either and your cell phone has an app for it. Another cool app I found useful is the inclinometer app which allows you to get the pitch of a fan blade or the pitch of your deck surfaces.
25°C......................77°F
x 2 = 50................-32 = 45
- 1/10 = 45...........+ 1/10 = 50
+32 = 77°F...........x ½ = 25°C
.................................................. ..........................................
Challenge is to find an instant step conversion. C to F:
(found on internet - if I locate the source again, I'll post it here.)
F to C: Harder but doable.
Can't think in Centigrade, I'm a Fahrenheit fan.
.................................................. ..........................................
C to F: double C > minus 10% > plus 32 = F (accurate)
F to C: F minus 30 > plus 10% > take half = C (close enough)
.................................................. ..........................................
F is literate.
C is laboratory: at zero water freezes, at 100° water boils.
F zero, it's too frikking cold even in Denmark.
At two digit 32° it's freezing, but you got a chance.
At F 100°, it's getting into a 3-alarm heat wave
(while in C scale, it'll be 37.5° - close to freezing in my book.)
Fahrenheit is a finer tuned scale and more expressive.
98.6° is normal human body temp. 104° it's heat stroke or fever,
a 5.4° spread. For emphasis, it crosses a two to a three digit gradient.
Celsius, it's 37° and 40° - a 3° separation. Fahrenheit says it way better.
Holy catfish! it's going to be over 37.5° today! ....no, rilly?.....
Commander 5
Ebb....UPDATES.....pictures..... WE NEED UPDATES AND PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:-)
Pictures
Frank, how are you doing!
Oh Boy, miss the energy of way back then....
But I am stirring the stew. Ordered sails from the finest sailmaker on the planet.
That alone is a huge boot in the butt.
Now have too large, but to hell with it, Hayn rigging....from Rigging Only.....rig da blinking mast.
Ready to fit the mahogany coamings. Still agonizing how to mount the winches. Whether to cap or not!!
Have an enormous urge to paint the mahogany bulworks with the same grey paint that's on the boot top...
(can do that later...right?)(lemmie see, seal w/ epoxy, fill the grain, 3 coats of varnish...then paint!)
You once told me the secret was to finish EACH project, only then move on to the next...
I have seventeen of them going like spinning plates. Ooops
Many have fallen, couple broke, and may have forgotten how the hell I ever got them spinning.
It's always been like this....
This time I'm getting there. Have to....
Gotta quit the job.
Ree diculous, I'm two decades beyond retirement. Getting out of jail without a 'free' card.
Holding the bright image. Feel the tiller in my hand.
Pushing off....oh man... the boat is coming alive..
Pull the hat down, adjusting the shades, here ah come!
Really.
Last edited by ebb; 03-06-2015 at 08:58 AM.
[ Holding the bright image. Feel the tiller in my hand.
Pushing off....oh man... the boat is coming alive..
Pull the hat down, adjusting the shades, here ah come!
Really.[/QUOTE]
Keep THAT image Ebb!!
Get motivated. Learn "acceptable tolerances"
I just sailed into HopeTown (Elbow Cay) from Marsh Harbour this morning.
Nice wind, blue green water...shorts-no T shirt
Ya gotta get your butt over here!!!
Keep the faith buddy!!!!!
Remember...I'm flying in for launch day!
PS....Ebb...you asked how I was doing...
Bad knees, awful shoulder, deaf on left side....but....
http://sailfar.net/forum/index.php?t...49675#msg49675
keeps the faith
For the first time ever on another computer, another location...
still in the same county....but I'm getting the idea!
Probably will feel too embarrassed or too harried when splash comes.
Probably sneak it in on a foggy morning, me & the crane operator.
...after what I've done to her, will litlgull even float on her lines?...
Frank,
Used yer blue line and followed you & yer float through a couple pages,
a couple far away estuaries and a couple eateries and a couple where?
harbors and a couple minutes on what I understood is a ComPac27?
...couple nice there too!! ah h h yes... guess I've been out of touch!
OK ok, one of these days, some anchorage, there'll be this strange little
sloop/cutter...you'll recognize it as an Arielberg ...with aluminum nose.
And this old guy is sitting there complaining about some damn thing
probably:
....Hey, Frank, whot hapnin?
Hey, Ebb, you finally made it...
(continue this later, gotta go congrats a friend who's just
successfully made it out of surgery......)
Her's was a rotorooter - a clotted artery, a slowing that stops people dead...
like littlgull's lifestyle of plastic prosthetics clogging the way to a place in the sun.
LongJohnSilver got along fine with a plain wood peg (wonder what wood?
was it silver bound?)...I could've upgraded a rail at a time... and gone sailing...
My friend is real, the Ahreal has no anthropomorphic flesh & blood comparing
with her, except to me...and she, the 26ft one, speaks more to primal breath...
When I said soul, clapped my chest - the seat of the breath, the gift of life.
The boat's sails likewise breathe in the planet's gift of life.
More than a bit scared of foul & fair winds yet to come, I think.
Way more afraid of hospitals, 'senior care', druuugs, and white collar clones.
And the last ten or twenty consigned to professionals...
It's time to head offshore... time to get some of that ocean air.
__________________________________________________ ___________________
I have a feeling my boat
has struck, down there in the depths,
against a great thing.
And nothing
happens! Nothing....Silence....Waves
-- Nothing happens? Or has everything
happened
and are we standing now,
in the new life?
Juan Ramon Jiminez (from A.V.)
Last edited by ebb; 01-05-2016 at 12:15 PM.
If he won’t post his recent progress, at least he can share this:
“My first boat was a 29 foot, gaff rig, reeving bowsprit sloop named SKUA. She was given away some 20 years ago, and never heard from again! The boat was all original from the rubbing strake up. Thought you'd like to see her ... bears some little resemblance to the Ariel, doesn't it?”
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