Carbonsoup

In response to your question #1.. I would not use a bulkhead installed in a Pearson boat from our era to align anything. I can tell you none of the bulkheads in my boat were perpendicular to the fore and aft centerline. They were as set buy the TLAR (that looks about right) method. And yes the shaft should be dead on the boats centerline. The way you have redone your boats interior would make it impossible to use the method I did (which is to streatch a mason's string tightly from the point of the bow to the point where the shaft exits the boat) to align the shaft on the centerline but you could probably figure out a suitable alternate method like determining the centerline of your cabin bulkhead and stretching a string line from there to the exit point of the shaft.

Question #2.. The reason I went with the prop I did (which is an 11 x 11) reasons. First I determined the diameter that would best fit the aperature in the keel and rudder based on the ratios from that Good Old boat article I posted previously. Then I worked closely with Scott McMillian from Electric Yacht to determine what would be the best pitch for the 2:1 reduction we were using for my electric motor and the output power it developed at the shaft.

As far as regeneration I'm not holding a lot of hope for that even though my system will work that way. And the 3-blade prop will do a better job for regeneration than a 2-blade one would do. But from people that have done systems like this they don't feel they get a lot of benefit from it.

Question #3.. Yes the fabricator I used would be happy to make another mast head assembly. Are you planning on following Mike's advise (C227) about lowering the forward sheeve on the assembly? If so it would take a bit of time to rework the drawing. I can help you get it ordered with the fabricator I used. Shoot me an e-mail so we can discuss. My e-mail address is gocarpen at tampabay dot rr dot com.

Question #4.. When I was removing my mast base I accidentally snapped off a couple of the screws also. You will never get the base off if you don't completely drill out those screws. When I did it I ended up with buggered up holes in the bottom of the mast that I had a welder plug at the same time he plugged all of the other no longer needed holes in the mast. Once I got the broken screws out completely the base came off pretty easily. Before that there was NO moving it.

Hope this helps.