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Thread: Ariel #97

  1. #166
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    1,439
    I chuckle every time I see an ad for an Ariel that says "beamy". Love the rounded passageway!
    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  2. #167
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    Northern MN
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    Your work is definitely not amature hour. I really like what you are doing to 97. The curves are a gracious surface to deal with when in such a tight space. While some make a very valid argument that these rounded cabinets don't equate to maximum usage of space for storage, we can counter with the fact that there just isn't enough space to begin with to worry about such matters. I for one will live with curves!

    You have inspired me scale back ambition to a more realistic level. You can only have so much in one of these hulls so go simple, with regards to systems, and elegant in style. Looking forward to the next installment!
    My home has a keel.

  3. #168
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony G View Post
    While some make a very valid argument that these rounded cabinets don't equate to maximum usage of space for storage, we can counter with the fact that there just isn't enough space to begin with to worry about such matters.
    yes, a valid argument. well, the world around us has created lots of boxes and so a curved cabinet is most definitely going to lose the fight in terms of space efficiency... but, i have a couple things to say against this argument, firstly, I am a man that is more interested in fung shui than fitting the most boxes in a container. If it doesnt fit in the container then try another container, and if that still doesnt work you might not need it in the first place!

    Secondly, I have lived in a boat and can tell you from first hand experience that square cabinets will in fact inflict harm given the chance. I will admit that the curves I am introducing are a bit over sized however, but I am also trying to expand the standing/moving room in between the different parts of the galley/salon.

    Also, if you remove an engine and expand the interior volume of the Pearson Ariel by making a quarter berth from the under the cockpit seating.... you gain quite a bit of storage!

    In regards to keeping systems simple... I am trying but not sure if I am succeeding. The electric conversion is no joke if you are trying to DIY. I have done a bunch of research but am still far from having the system even specified, let alone bought, fabricated, installed or tested.
    Last edited by carbonsoup; 02-11-2013 at 09:21 PM.

  4. #169
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    Sep 2008
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    Brooksville, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonsoup View Post
    In regards to keeping systems simple... I am trying but not sure if I am succeeding. The electric conversion is no joke if you are trying to DIY. I have done a bunch of research but am still far from having the system even specified, let alone bought, fabricated, installed or tested.
    Have you looked into these systems? It will cost you perhaps 50% more in material costs but the system is mostly plug and play and was designed by an electrical engineer. I choose to go this way with my electrical conversion because I am not an electrical engineer and felt the added cost of materials was worth the cost.

    http://www.electricyacht.com/products/quietorque/
    JERRY CARPENTER - C147
    A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.

  5. #170
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    3,621

    to be or not to be

    I think your curves look GREAT!.
    Where you have second thoughts, you might modularize
    by making the cabinet/locker/railing removable.
    EG, don't epoxy it in.
    Can bed structures in using butyl tape & screws for water integrity.
    AND next century later do the epoxy.


    [Only recently on A338 has it dawned on me that instead of the massive tabbing and gluing....
    I should have built up the volumes using 1/4" meranti. Pasting thin panel structures together with fillets
    and light weight glass cloth. Call it flat panel stitch&glue. Actaully paste, fillet & cover. Amazing strong.
    Of course, you still tab cleats or plates (or bulkheads) to the hull for anchoring the boxes.
    And lockers and cabinets can be glued - or better - merely screwed.
    Use removable trim, moldings, rails to tie things together!]
    Last edited by ebb; 02-12-2013 at 08:33 AM.

  6. #171
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander 147 View Post
    Have you looked into these systems? It will cost you perhaps 50% more in material costs but the system is mostly plug and play and was designed by an electrical engineer. I choose to go this way with my electrical conversion because I am not an electrical engineer and felt the added cost of materials was worth the cost.

    http://www.electricyacht.com/products/quietorque/
    In a nutshell, here is the system I am leaning towards
    http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevc...kit-8.5kw.html

    motor mount, prefab
    http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ts-gear-reduction.html

    batteries, 12v 100Ah AGM, group 27 (x4). Not sure what manufacture yet, but in the 200-250 per battery range= 800-100 bux (ish)

    The thunderstruck kit seems reasonable, they have 'some' sailboat experience and the controller is preprogrammed which means they are willing to provide support. (I already spoke with them about this.) In terms of cost, we a talking a 1500-2000 dollar difference compared with Electricyacht, once you factor batteries. To me, in my, very limited budget.... a little extra work on my end is ok.

    One other consideration in terms of money is that I can buy the motor and mount and at least get moving on the fabrication and testing without plunking down 5k... though, i wish i had 5k to just plug and play!

  7. #172
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    Sep 2008
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    Brooksville, FL
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    I fully understand the money issue. Have you read Mike's account on his commander C227? I believe he used a Thunderstruck system also. He might be able to give you some pointers.

    What will you use for a throttle?

    Also something you will absolutely need is a fuse and it needs to be a VERY HEAVY DUTY ONE. Here is a picture of the one Electric Yacht sent me with my system. It is a Littlefuse JLLN 200. These systems can create massive amounts of current flow in an overload and can easily burn the boat down to the water.
    Attached Images  
    JERRY CARPENTER - C147
    A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.

  8. #173
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    Sep 2012
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    Philly, PA
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    Harbor Freight makes boat sheds! well, not actually. I was perusing the classifieds in 'Good old boat' magazine and saw a coupon for a Harbor Freight 10x20 car canopy for 99 bux and thought to myself, gee wouldnt it be great to not work in the snow and rain?! So, on my way back from watching the Superbowl i stopped at harbor freight and picked it up, then made a stop at Lowes' and bought three pieces of 1 1/2" galvanized conduit, six 1/4-20 bolts and some steel rebar.

    when i got home I cut the 10 foot conduit tubing in half and made leg extensions by sliding the base of the canopy leg 12" inside the conduit and then through bolting. the bottom of the legs are sitting over 24" steel rebar pounded in to the ground.

    For additional cross bracing I used some of my extra line to go from the top of the center side support to the bottom of the outer leg. Voila!
    Last edited by carbonsoup; 02-23-2013 at 01:59 PM.

  9. #174
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    Last edited by carbonsoup; 02-23-2013 at 02:00 PM.

  10. #175
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    Last edited by carbonsoup; 02-23-2013 at 02:01 PM.

  11. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander 147 View Post
    Also something you will absolutely need is a fuse and it needs to be a VERY HEAVY DUTY ONE. Here is a picture of the one Electric Yacht sent me with my system. It is a Littlefuse JLLN 200. These systems can create massive amounts of current flow in an overload and can easily burn the boat down to the water.
    yes, these are the kinds of things i need to know. the kind of detail that can kill you. The interesting thing about the electric conversion is that you can upgrade over time, but items like quality contactors and fuses that can withstand the rigors of the marine world and very high amperages are what is going to keep me and the boat safe. No skimping here!

  12. #177
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Excelsior, Minnesota
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    326
    Feel free to contact me if you would like any of my input on your electric motor design. I have designed, built and installed a few as well as installing a few from Parsons and Electric Yachts. The unit I built for The Princess has been operating flawlessly with very regular use for three years now.
    My email can be found in my profile.
    Mike
    C227

  13. #178
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    Sep 2012
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    Philly, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander227 View Post
    Feel free to contact me if you would like any of my input on your electric motor design. I have designed, built and installed a few as well as installing a few from Parsons and Electric Yachts. The unit I built for The Princess has been operating flawlessly with very regular use for three years now.
    My email can be found in my profile.
    Mike
    C227
    will do, thanks! actually, your write up was one of the things that made me seriously consider doing the conversion on the Ariel.

    Another fellow, Chris McKesson who is a naval architect and sailor did a conversion on his Columbia 36 . He has a realistic approach that I appreciated.

  14. #179
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander227 View Post
    My email can be found in my profile.
    actually, i couldnt find it... but i do have some questions. send me an email and we can start this off, mat at carbonsoup dot com.

    thanks, matt
    Last edited by Bill; 02-16-2013 at 06:50 PM. Reason: open Email address

  15. #180
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    Sep 2012
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    Philly, PA
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    Another rainy day in feb, so while i sit in the comfort of the fireplace I thought I would send some updates. It has been raining or sleeting the past several days which pretty much sux. I work as much as I can tolerate but walking across a swampy lawn to get to my shed or cutting table in the rain is no fun. I can wait for warm and dry as I will be able to get a lot more done in a single day.

    Anyway, a bunch of progress on several fronts, the most encouraging is port side galley and settee. As you will see, not complete however, for better or worse, important decisions have been made; things rearranged, plywood cut and fiberglass set...

    so, the stove is going to slide out from under the galley countertop. This large drawer is going to allow my single burner optimus stove to gimbal and underneath will be a storage for pots and pans. To the right (further to port) is the vertical ice chest. I am using the OEM icebox door, hey one less thing I have to make! To construct the box I have laminated 3 pieces of 1" foam to a piece of 3mm ply on one side and some x-mat on the other. Once these pieces are cut to size I will insert into the cabinet, attach and then glass the corners. I think this will make a pretty sizable ice chest

    but wait, Where is the sink? well, i moved it... it is now in the 'L' mid ship with the vertical pole... hmm, back to the rabbit hole of choices. why? well, basically because this little ship just does not have the room for the sink and stove to be next to each other. I tried all the permutations and if they were next to each other then one of them was squished or inaccessable. But, why not move the stove to the 'L' and leave the sink where it was... umm, one of my conditions was to have the stove be flush with the countertop; i.e. out of the way when not in use. I think I was nearly ready to toss the coin but then I thought that I would rather have a large portion of counterspace right next to the stove when cooking.... dont mind getting burned while accessing the icebox.... oh well.

    Last edited by carbonsoup; 02-23-2013 at 02:04 PM.

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