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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orinda, California
    Posts
    2,311

    D-70 by NIKON

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Goodwin
    I have a Nikon I purchased in 1969 . . . and I have a Nikon D-70 digital SLR I purchased in Feb of 2004. Nikon got it right and I have felt no need to shoot film anymore . . .
    Thanks for the info. I understand the D-70 will accept Nikkor lenses, but I assume you have to go to manual when using them.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Hampton Roads Va.
    Posts
    821

    D-70

    Depends on the lens , some older ( like most of mine ) yes ,you must go manual. All but a few of the older lenses will work with it too!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    led

    If I understand these posts correctly: 2 mile, maybe even three mile led lights are here already.
    Orca Green Marine can set you up with a tricolor with various options for between $240 to $370 for a tricolor/anchor with a photo sensor to turn it on and off and strobe. And if I recall, it's no taller than a can of 8oz pineapple slices. [a little taller]
    Stecktronics have more reasonably priced light inserts for existing AquaSignal fixtures.
    svhotwire carries led replacements for incandescent 15mm bayonet bulbs. And the Sea Sense line of dome lights, strips and recessed lights.
    Haven't compared any prices. Here's a young business attempting to do it all for you.

    Led's are available for almost everything on deck and below. The people I ran into at the boatshow are
    www.svhotwire.com
    They were so new they didn't have a brochure.

    If you already have a plain ole anchor light on the mast top, an outfit called GreenRay (Deep Creek) makes an led 'bulb' they call a light-engine you can retro for a mere $495. For cryinoutloud!

    Somewhere I saw an even flatter (pineapple can sized) tricolor light out of sweden or denmark. led's is the only way to go. If anyone establishes a relationship with svhotwire let us know, ok?
    Last edited by ebb; 07-06-2005 at 06:12 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Northern MN
    Posts
    1,100

    Cha-ching

    LEDs are expensive, there's no doubt about that. But there is the trade off of being energy efficient, and, we all know how expensive energy is. As new, improved products hit the market I'll seriously think about 'outside' lights. Yes, there are a couple of approved masthead lights out there, but, until the public demands the products and pays for the R&D the market won't grow to include the product we want.

    Anyway, that's enough of my blab for one night. Found these guys somewhere./www.superbrightleds.com/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    136
    Mike,

    So you go with the Red and Green for the Side Lights.

    For anyone what is the best way to get the socket out any particular tool.

    John
    Last edited by Bill; 07-13-2005 at 10:47 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    Punch out the plastic bottom of the socket. You might be able to pry some of the old brass socket out of the bronze housing, but its probably fused in there. Have to grind it out.

    I found some grinding attachments at the Dollar Store to use in a drill.

    Or else they might have a dremel attachment of the right size, maybe something like this
    Attached Images  

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    136
    Commander Pete

    Fortunately I have the tool which you attached.

    To everyone, I have found that if you go to Perko or West Marine for LEDs you will pay top dollar speaking in hundreds for the unit. and forty to seventy for special bayonet bulbs. 8 dollars at superbright. and guys I got it from Boat Works.

    John

    I thought we were trying to keep things on the cheap!!!!
    Last edited by Bill; 07-13-2005 at 10:47 PM.

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