Ebb, what did you use to coat the inside of your water tank?
Edit: Also did you glass straight the the existing plywood? If so did you lay any type of barrier to keep it from sticking to the ply (I can just imagine for some reason needing to remove it and all the explicitives that would accompany such a feet had it been bonded to the ply wood.)
Last edited by tha3rdman; 08-01-2006 at 10:48 AM.
#97 "Absum!"
WOW
I like the arch, but the interior is opened up very nicely already.
I'd go with the biggest windows possible for the dodger, even if you have to use vinyl windows. A handrail on either side would be good too.
Love the toerail
Sea'pete, Thanks, for your input! Maybe the arch and the windows are related in that we do want to get the widest effect possible. Always in the mix is the 'form follows function' maxim. The give and take of that is the fun part in trying to be unique but also end with something that looks right.
Dodgers are definitely structures that have to be made to be seen thru. My choice of a hatch for the center requires all the framing that comes with those things. Have a feeling it will seem too small. But it was the largest ready-made I could find for that space. And the hatch light is glass.
Have wanted to have windows in the dodger that look related to the windows in the cabin. An attempt to stay with the '60s look. That means a frame around the 'light'. That means giving up see-thru area. The best, easiest, even strongest, way is carbonate slabbed and thru-bolted over openings. Can be cut to look like more see-thru area too. But from the beginning I've wanted to keep that framed look. We'll see!
__________________________________________________ ________________________________
3rdmon,
The tank coating is epoxyproducts.com's NSP 120. A 100% solids 2 to 1 NSF 61 Approved Potable Water Epoxy. This is the caveat: NSF (National Sanitation Foundation Testing Lab.) is a private agency that takes FDA statistics and works them into a certification for a product or material. 61 is a number that refers to potable water. This epoxy is certified for tanks of a 1000gals or more. I'd like to know what the criterion is that judges whether an epoxy is good for a tank or a quart container?
When you search for a coating in the USA that is certified for potable water in smaller tanks you won't find it. Imagine all the containers we store and drink water from, including epoxy. I needed something.
I used this NSP 120 as the barrier coat on the outside hull. It's a hard, shiney, recoatable, dense product. It has an odor when fresh that disappears after set. I asked Paul at epoxyproducts.com about the smell and he didn't know - but I was assured it wasn't solvent. And so far as I know using it inside the boat hasn't produced a reaction. I take care to mix this product in one container and then pour it into another and stir again to make sure all of it is thoroly mixed. No uncured epoxy we hope. We're looking for an inert coating when cured. But who knows what we have here. Research it and use it without my recommendation.
Novolac epoxies, highly chemical resistant, used for coating gas tanks for instance, seem to be something to look into. All we're looking for is a hard non-reactive liner. I will pass potable, drinking/cooking water from a tank thru a carbon filter.
Don't know how far you want to get into this: but when I researched rubber (for seams and fittings) NO polysulfide passes the potable water line. NONE! That means polyurethane has to be used. Sikaflex 1A is OK, 5200 probably as well. I think I used the 1A because it had a longer open time(?) and was cheaper, coming from the hardware store. For fuel related we MUST use polysulfide (Thiokol was originally invented to keep WWII planes together, including fuel tanks.) - for water related we MUST use polyurethane.
The tank was made inside the original V-berth. The tank is part of the hull, let's say. Unusual are the large triangular sectioned fillers glassed in under the plywood top. There is a final lid which has two 6" s.s. access plates and a nylon waterfill. Dunno about the vent yet. The interior is completely glassed. The tank has a narrow raised flat bottom. The draw will be out the bottom, ie thru the bulkhead. The baffle is 3/16" homemade frp sheet held in place with fillets - with the top let into a groove in the lid.
Last edited by ebb; 09-01-2006 at 11:19 PM.
Ditto that! And the scuppers too... Functional and elegant. Looks like a Fuller tool kit was put to use.Originally Posted by commanderpete
Your open interior is sweet. The arch is interesting, but I would think you could use your existing bulkheads for shelving or storage, things I'm sure you can never have enough of.
Mike
Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)
LOVE the raised toe rail !!! The scuppers are great...and needed. The little 'bulwork'(spell check:Mike) will sure give you a confident feeling going forward offshore.....not to mention a great tool saver to boot.Lookin good buddy...it IS progressing.Too bad about the primer job...WOW !! You and I AFTER a bottle of rum could have done better...ouch!! Think of all that sanding in the heat as a gym alterative.Keep it going Ebb...it really looks great.
Thanks gents for the vote on the rail. That feels good!
Ebb...I'm not gettin a handle on your interior??.Open IS great,huge watertank down low is super,nice 1/4 berth too if I remember right.Can't place the galley?? Any final ideas yet??
Franko,
Keep telling self to make fullsize mockup with paper and cardboard. I think the basic thing is to have minimal open access to the starboard Q'berth, with the dinette continuing off of it all the way to the bulkhead under the mast. Want to have the largest table possible. I 'see' the table top with hinges somewhere in the middle so that half of it can easily fold UP - hopefully leaving enough room for the off watch to be comfortable when the dinette converts to bunk.
Ideal would be to push the whole 'double' bunk bed thing forward (over the V-berth tanks) so the the galley area and the c'way are free. That's why the compass arch looks so good to me - and it's just a few inches extra gained at bunk level. When the laminated compression beam was built of white oak, I used cloth with epoxy to glue between lams. Resorcinol supposedly doesn't like the wood, and I don't think brown glue is waterproof enough. All the other glues have a problem with creep, except the polyurethanes which I've had problems with just in normal glueing. Anyway, it's a complicated messy project making that bloody arch the hard way - so hopefully I won't find myself doing it!
Have to have the galley at the c'way so I can stand (with the hatch open.) The counter won't continue over to where the icebox was, which has to remain open. I think the port corner is the best location for the kitchen in 338. Aside from shelves and cupboards I'm not certain what will be between the galley and the V'berth on the port side. Because this is standing room here, the ladder has to be removable, tho steps built into the furniture that leaves the center open is an option. Plan a small portable cold box under the bridge.
Last edited by ebb; 08-03-2006 at 03:58 AM.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote