#342
I can tell you what I should have done with those four wide out bolts, maybe all six.
I could have dished-out the hockey-puck tops like we do for any hole repair.
Then epoxied two or three disks of fiberglass (widest diameter first) into each dish so that the edges of the new glass overlaps the venerable polyester deck.
Then redrilled the holes through for the 3/8" SB carriage bolts.
Tightened jam-nut and washer onto the new fiberglass.
(Note to self: Jam nut and washer measure 1/4" thick. Make sure nut can be covered with filler. Use 6-8OZ glass fabric for disks. Keep the dishing as close to the deck surface as possible - don't gouge too deep.)
Bolt ends get cut off with grinder right at the nut after assembly.
Everything fits perfect of course, nuts are JUST below the finished surface of the deck.
Then fill what remains of the dish by covering the nut with chopped-strand and epoxy and grind flat. Nothing shows after filling and fairing.
The fabric disks that lap the old deck hopefully engage the tough old cabin skin of the deck composite outside with the strongback inside.*
Nuts and washers are really on the 'outside' but just happen to be in a convenient dip that just happens to be filled in.
That's how I shoudadunit
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* The composite has a top layer that seems to be about 3/16" to a 1/4" thick. Mid layer is 3/8" end-grain balsa. The inner layer (NOT the liner) is 1/16" or less in places. Estimate the composite generally to be 9/16" thick. The foredeck, where it was cut out for a Bomar, is exactly that. Haven't had the boat totally apart for investigation obviously, so this is general assumption - some places it's thicker.
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