These do require a photo for explanation. I'll see what I can do.
First of all, do you need deck level waterways off the boat along the sheer?
I put them in, three to a side (probably should have more) because litlgull now has an extended height toe rail.
This is a 'standup' toe rail like a bulwark rather than a CAP RAIL.
Caprails which are trim pieces you attach to the top of the existing molded toerail
are an addition you find on the Alberg Triton.
Cap rails on an Ariel would not imco raise the level enough to cause a water problem on deck.
Talking about taking water aboard and getting its weight off the deck pronto.
If you are adding something like the upright rail A-338 has, then this is what we did.
As I say I'll find some pixs.
Tony wanted to see thse scuppers close up. If I can't figure how to email them to him I'll snail them.
PreMADE SCUPPER LINER
BEFOR the wood rail was bolted on the toerail, the new scuppers were rough cut out of the existing molded fiberglass toerail.
Shocking!!! When you do this you definitely are opening up the boat, you can see right in. Inside you can see right out!
You have ofcourse a model of what you are doing - so if the scuppers slant as they do on litlgull, cut the toe with that in mind as close as you can.
(I'd first make and have to hand the scupper liner/shell. Not sliced yet.)
Sawsall the toerail with a stiff small tooth bimetal blade fot the down cuts. For the cut along the deckline, a jig saw with a straight cut small tooth bimetal (hacksaw type blade) is also good.]
If you have big curved corrners in your scupper like litlgull's no need to duplicate that in your rough-out. Thickened epoxy.
And you can measure just how wide you have to have your new scupper liner chunks. (At least two inches because of the toerail to deck cove. At deck level)
Previously I had made a nice full rounded edge mold of some length - say two feet, always make more!
It's a very smooth ciabatta or bagette shape about 1 1/2" tall and about 4" wide.
Only the edges on one flat side needs the router with a big roundover bit treatment.
When ready to make up the fiberglass liner put the prepared form rounded side up on a riser (less wide than the form) so that you can easyly tightly wrap it on top and sides. Staples, tape to the riser.
If you cover the curved 'bottom' and the sides with 1/8" lay-up of fiberglass, you'd probably never get the glass off the mold. Even with your 'mold release': seran wrap or mylar.
So the mold form is made with three equal width pieces running the length of the mold. When done you knock the center piece out and the form collapses. Obviously the three piece form is not glued together.
The inside of the fiberglass crust you make will be nice and smooth.
You have layed the glass up on seran wrap which epoxy won't stick to. Using the thicker mylar film will give you an incredibly glassy surface. Epoxy doesn't stick to mylar.
You'll be able to use the form again, many times.
These scuppers go on the boat OPEN side UP.
You won't cut them at 90 degrees because you want the scuppers to slant aft.
The scuppers won't scoop when your rail is in the water that way. And it looks cool. (25 to 30 degrees.)
You cut the crusts oversize and trim them to fit the original toerail profile after you've glued or tacked the pieces in.
You will have 'rough cut' your toerail cut outs into the boat so they are exactly at deck level.
When you position the scupper liner it will be epoxied in so that the thickness of the lay up is above deck level 1/8". Or the thickness of the scupper shell.
This means that big water will go overboard just fine, and the morning dew will collect and descend the thru-deck pipe scupper that Pearson put in just for that purpose (if your A/C has that feature) but that tiny 1/8" rise keeps it from dribbling and staining the topsides. That's the theory.
After glue in wipe the globs and squeeze out away with alcohol/paper towels.. It will make it easier to carve the oversized liner back to the original toerail profile with your dremel and carbide burrs.?
Any imperfections can be filled with fairing compound.*
Photos show a very clean look to the alteration. The backward slant of the scuppers are all exactly the same. Since that show surface (the inside of the shell) was never worked on and is the same as all the others and pristine.
Your caprail or toerail extension bridges the scuppers - so you will have remember to varnish underneath.
You may feel that you should reinforce the scupper liners from underneath with added strips of X-matt. Prop ply pieces topped with mylar underneath the holes with slightly oversized wet strips of X-matt to make a bottom. Mylar topped jigs should fall away after set. You'll be extending the original deck out to the hull at the inside deck level - there will be a little filling to do. Can glue a bit of backing in the side holes so that when you glue the liner in it isn't suspended in the hole on thin cutouts. Depends on how you approach this upgrade.
You may discover that the new scupper will itself do an excellent strong job closing the hole.
There are a hundred ways to do this project. This is sort of how it was done on litlgull.
Some may recall that litlgull's toerail cove INSIDE was filled with strips of wood and mishmash to the inside level of the deck molding. This made bolting the standup toerail a little easier and arguably stronger.
When I violated the old toerails I already had sufficient 'backup' for glueing in the scupper liners.
Hope this helps.
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*fairing compound. You can make your own or buy West System's 407 powdered fairing compound. They also have a 410 fairing material, don't use that. The 407 is a structural formula of fumed silica and phenolic microspheres. When mixed into two-part laminating epoxy it looks like a chocolate brownie mix. Mix into any brand two-part epoxy. Sets hard but is fairly easy to sand and fairs to feather edge. It will withstand a hot deck and can be used below the waterline.
Won't say I'm in the business of recommending, but the 407 is the ONLY PRODUCT of West System's that I will use.
[MSDS for Malaysian phenoset microspheres admits to trace amounts formaldehybe.] Dust mask.
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