w e l l . . . . . .
What led to such chunky rails was making a wide allowance for the big hole in the top for the 3/8" hex bolt, washer and socket wrench. So while I went with 1 1/2" to cover the molded toerail I thought couldn't chamfer much more than leaving an inch width on top. There's a full inch for the long bolts up front but that inch widens as the rail height gets shorter as it goes toward the stern.
Rails were to be rounded. Allowance for that also widened the top because you don't want to round in way of the bung holes.
Don't know why but when I spied down the newly installed rail from stem to stern
a HUMP appeared in what should have been a deadflat LochNess shot. It wasn't a true monster because the old jack plane only took a few shaves to get it straight.
But then I took to measuring port and starboard sides to get them absolutely the same.
You know, measuring the sides at one foot intervals along the whole tapering rail
The rail is about 4" tall at the bow and about 2" at the transom.
Then I thought a TINY TINY bit of curve in the rail sheer would look sexy.
And it only took a few shaves.
But both sides HAD to be the same.....
So before I woke up they was shaved down to the bronze carriage bolt tops. A half dozen bungs on each side now were reduced to paper-thin disks that wafted out of the holes. Ahh mean STUPID!
So now I've got to put a cap on the rail to cover my excesses.
Already got most of a thin cap rail milled out of IPE which I won't varnish OR oil. Just another damn consequence...
Very well might paint the new toerails
so I won't have them always nagging at me.
#1) The backstay quarter plate is extra long because the transom was going to be dolled up with a fancy log of varnished mahogany.
But I'll forgo that I think because now I can SEE the error of putting any more weight where the hell you don't want it.
Really GOOFED on the rails. It looks to the eye that the rail leans outward.
I thought I switched port and starboard when the rails were straight before mounting.
But it is a problem that becaime more evident as the truncated rails were sprung into place, bolted and tightened up. You don't know how hard it was to bend those suckers.
I could hire a WOODWORKER to pare back the outside of the rail - in place. Straightening up the apparent lean would make the top less wide AND make it easier to fit a narrower cupped caprail. Don't trust myself.
There is also the consideration that the outer surface of the rails are now IN TENSION from springing them and may not like to be shaved. Grain might want to pop loose, dunno. Seen it happen.
Can't afford to hire. And if I put on a IPE rubrail and PAINT the toerail another color besides white.....
the problem will go away! Yeah right!
#3 & #4) Notice in the scupper shots that the toerail wood and the toerail plastic show a higher seam than where the deck to hull seam used to be! About an inch and a half below.
That old seam has disappeared (we hope). At least I don't see it there anymore under the Awlglitz. Note that pricelss sweep only the painter sees on the inside of the scuppers. Like that stuff!
Untreated IPE for the rubrail here.
Everything is bedded with butyl.
Want critque PLEASE. I'm not here with thumbs in my armpits wiggling my fingers.
"Ebb, you take that stoopid rail off the boat. How many pounds you got out there?
Fill in those nasty scupper thingies too... you'd be sailing by now if you didn't mess around with all this dumb sh........"
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