(Jim did a nize job on that Taipan!
Hey, I'm no David Blaine, but the motor don't tilt and the bilge don't hold no water!)
Swear you'll like the lid when it's done...
Rather have you swear at it,
rather than ignore it.
(Jim did a nize job on that Taipan!
Hey, I'm no David Blaine, but the motor don't tilt and the bilge don't hold no water!)
Swear you'll like the lid when it's done...
Rather have you swear at it,
rather than ignore it.
Last edited by ebb; 02-13-2005 at 08:32 AM.
Also, I'm still trying to come to grips with the irony of picturing Ebb at a marina pumping water INTO his bilge! Nice idea, BTW, easy to inspect/clean.
Actually, I think he's just trying to one-up the McGregor crowd by making that extra ballast usable. Heck, kick it up a notch use it as a tub!
Last edited by mbd; 02-13-2005 at 08:47 AM.
Mike,
Multi-use is definitely where it's at. Geoff got me started down the rhumb line with his diesel tank below the cabin deck. I think there'ld be no way the keep the smell in check. 338 has it's gas engine hanging outside. Sweet water for voyaging in a ballast mode seems like a good idea anyway. At one time I thought of putting the batteries down there, but you 'perts would have dressed me down for that. Right?
Deodorized kerosene could be stowed there. How would a cruiser otherwise carry the fuel - in gallon cans? I hadn't got the dip stick made yet when the inspectors arrived to shoot the boat. Planned to fill the tank a gallon at a time and mark the stick accordingly. Check for leaks this way. Of course I thought about an official 'fill' but forgot to put it in. So have to do that and it's easier to proof if the lid is accessable from both sides.
Have looked into kerosene for cruising, we've talked about it on the forum. The belly tank would be a way to carry fuel for stove, heaters and backup lighting. But the smell issue rears its ugly head. Don't know. I committed the tank to Sc80 PVC fittings, not brass like Geoff did. Is PVC ok with fuel oil?
Found a site where a couple of Slovanians are looking for venture capital to swing a diesel ob into the market that doesn't weigh much more than the four stroke. And it would burn biofuel as well. Bet they looking at the middle of the market, be a long time befor a ten horse would drop below 250#!!
I got some nice bronze access plates on sale. (Mariner's Hardware) Wanted 6" but went for the 5 inchers.
5 means that I can't really get my arms in the hole (especially in the shallow end). Sometimes I feel like a motherless child.
From the multi-use stand point - it would be a great place to keep cured olives in brine Or wine.
Last edited by ebb; 02-14-2005 at 03:21 PM.
Ebb,
I sure you filled us in before , but what is up with the 'keyhole' in your transom?
And what is the water tank surfaced with ?
Mike,
Keyhole slot is where a key is inserted to start the boat. Pg 9 #127
Tank Coating is epoxyproducts.com NSP 120 / NSF 61 Approved Potable Water Epoxy. Read the MSDS.
If anyone is prone to using this product for this use: I do not advocate the use of this product for drinking water.
I will, after the tank is set up, and flushed a couple times, fill it with water and keep it in there for 8 weeks or so, after which I'll have it tested for the specific chemicals that might have leached from the epoxy. If something shows up I will run it thru a carbon filter and test the water again.
I do not trust THE chemical industry nor THE regulators to come clean with the consumer. The coating is applied outside of laboratory control by an unlicensed, untrained, probably-guilty-of-something (PGOS) individual. It is best to be wary of approvals and claims and the language used to describe attributes and limitations of a product. IMCO the only approvable containment for potable water is mineral glass. Haven't found a paint-on version yet. Nearly ALL plastics have been proven many times over to be a gamble or downright dangerous. Not sure about bakelite.
Last edited by ebb; 02-14-2005 at 05:46 PM.
Not only are these glass classics seaworthy and well built but can be customized and updated to whatever you need. Great job, you have inspired me to install/ build internal gas tanks for the outboard engine and maybe some other things for my Commander. I'm still thinking/ looking/planning on how to raise and lower the outboard motor with some mechanical contrivence. Impressive, well done.
Looking forward to reading of your exploits!
Self built-in frp gas tank is a real challenge.
Don't ever want to leak into the boat
or into the environment.
I have wondered at times how to go about getting them CG approved. I have wondered if I should bother at all. Might try to locate a certified tank tester. Must be live tank certifying tank testers around, right? The test would require the tank hold a certain amount of pressure for a certain length of time. I would do the air pressure test first myself - it has to be the same as the one used for new plumbing at a construction site.
But I have a feeling that even if the tanks passed they wouldn't be approved for gas because there probably are no regs for plastic gas tank testing. No sane person would think of it!
The only legal tanks are store bought.
Last edited by ebb; 02-16-2005 at 07:43 PM.