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Thread: deck scuppers

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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Winyah Bay, SC
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    Peter -

    I think that was/is supposed to act as a sort of a "dam" to encourage water to go down the small holes and into a water-gathering system in the lazarette, or maybe under the cockpit. This is what Craig was referring to.

    At least that is my interpretation of what that "curl" is for... 8^)
    Kurt - Ariel #422 Katie Marie
    --------------------------------------------------
    sailFar.net
    Small boats, long distances...

  2. #2
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    Sep 2001
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    San Rafael, CA
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    stern scuppers

    The mini ramps also provides a back for the s.s. 1/2 round 'rubbing strake'. Or it did on 338.

    Popped out the wedgies and faired the slot down to deck level with 1/2 round files - this takes it down further than the deck/hull seam. You'll be opening the seam when you do this.

    The factory seam inside the laz is battered with poly and matt which you may expose. Just open and clean out the loose stuff there on top and fill with epoxy filler, file and fair, paint or gelcoat. Then cut the 1/2 round trim shorter to fit if necessary.

    The only downside might be staining on the transom under the openings from water now able to run off the stern.

    You can sorta see this lowering of the scuppers in the Gallery on pages 13 #166 and 14 #198.
    Last edited by ebb; 01-05-2006 at 07:06 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I've found that "ramp" provides a means to propel the running water far away from the stern, so water staining is no issue...

    Yes, a new boot stripe is in my future - after some other issues are addressed.
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    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  4. #4
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    *****en stain pain

    Nice boat there!
    Boot stripe problem might be fixed by stationing someone of equal weight in the bow.

    The little ramps in the scuppers have caused puddling in the deck aft of the thru-deck scupper next to the coamings.
    If you keep the edge sharp there where water exits (when you take the wedges out) it is less likely to dribble down the transom. It's boats that sit around collecting dust that have a stain problem.

  5. #5
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    Here's a pic of what Ebb's talking about methinks - a shot of where the water exits at the stern...
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    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  6. #6
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    As seen in post #41 above, my boat has no issues draining the water aft-wise from the decks, and the factory scuppers work fine (scupper to port of the cockpit below). After I remove the lead pig or whatever it is from bowels of my bilge (discussed in another thread), I'll see how the draining works this next season.

    On a "fix one thing, break another" note, I do however need to add some cockpit drains to the aft end of the cockpit, so the water will drain there instead of pouring down my cockpit hatch. Turns out it's not so water-tight when submerged...
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    Mike
    Totoro (Sea Sprite 23 #626)

  7. #7
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    Hey Mike'
    It is aft of that scupper hole that stains - when the wedges were still in - from water sitting on the deck occured on 338.
    Water also collects and sits in the aft corners of the seats. 338 will have some small diameter pvc pipe epoxied in with the outlet thru the upright like the regular lid scupper holes.

    bills231 thrudeck scupper fix is a real nice alternative! Post #36 Where does it exit the hull? Maybe the corner of the seat's drains could meet up with the deck drains if they all met up on the cockpit bulkhead. (?)

    WAY LATER EDIT: Mike Goodwin mentions scuppers that exit into the motor well. Seat drain scupper in the aft outer corner of the seat could exit thru the bulkhead into the lazarette. Maybe directly thru, but more slick, thru a right angle pvc fitting. Don't know how difficult it would be to reach in thru the lids to work on the hole (probably not)... If you have a functioning OB motorwell, maybe a direct unobtrusive scupper hole into the laz is probably best for these seat drains.

    No drains going outboard thru the hull can be hose or plain tube. Any drain going thru the hull MUST be glassed in place, thruout its length, or be so overbuilt as to be rediculous. Must be structural! Page 4 #47 in Ebb's Gallery, cockpit rear drains.
    Especially true for drainways hidden from sight and above the waterline. (...Think I meant thru-deck scuppers opposite the coamings.)

    LATER EDIT: When I made those three each thru the toerail scuppers opposite the coamings, I left them a bit higher than the deck so that they would not continually direct liquid out that obviously stains the topsides.
    This may also be a problem for the open stern drains, that Pearson changed over to, that exit the deck by carving thru the stern toerail.
    I talk about a built-up "wedge" of gelcoat found on A338 in years old posts here. Which may have been made for the halfround 'rubbing strake' to cross the stern deck seam without event - but also, as Mike says, the ramp helps to stop soiled water from constantly dribbling down the transom.

    The best scuppers for 99% removal of cranky deck water are the thrudecks at the rail opposite the coamings,. Pearson built them in by glassing half tube to the hull inside. where they exit out the hull at the waterline. Can say paranoia drove me to beef up these two scupper drains with epoxy and X-matt. True conservative method probably would have dictated seacock valves as positive hole closers. This cannot be done without converting over to hose, and hidden hose here is a big liability, so the Pearson compromise is credible.

    But Pearson also gave us for the cockpit: glassed-in fiberglass-tube drains. Without question here, on a well-found ship, there should be seacocks.
    TWO FEET of SEAWATER is constantly in the hose. Depending on hose, clamps, connections and luck, a constant threat to sinking at any moment.
    Last edited by ebb; 03-12-2017 at 01:57 PM.

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