Gasket material and dressing
Major marine catalogs think that real sailors don't need to make their own gaskets.
Auto supply has only engine related gasket sheet.
If you invent a company name for yourself (SV Bluenose, eg) I bet you can order from McMasterCarr. They have miles of foam and rubber sheet in all kinds of thickness in synthetic and natural rubber, much of it potential gasket material.
Much you can get in one foot squares, sometimes you have to get a square yard. Some of it is pricey, some very cheap.
High strength Weather Resist 40A (relatively compressible) EPDM rubber 12" X 12", $5.24. might be useful.
EPDM is an inexpensive outdoor rubber. It does not come closedcell foam by itself, but blended with other rubber.
Blends of neoprene,SBR, EPDM is the most common commercial closed cell gasket material with moderate resistance to fuels and weather. EPDM holds up better outside than neoprene (door gasket) but should not be in direct sunlight.
ECH, epichlorohydrin, is a closed cell rubber that will do moderately well with fuel and has excellent resistance to sunlight, heat, oxidation, weather, ozone. Gets my vote for all-round versatility.
Ionomer foam sheet reads good. Doesn't come thinner than 3/16" and they make buoys out of it. You want weather (Ozone, UV) resistant. Closed cell foam would give a firm more compressible gasket. But you have to get rubber that is rated for compression recovery. In other words, material that won't easily take a set and get tired while sealing a fitting. Don't want to compress any foam gasket more than 20% to 30%. MCMCarr has good charts and a bit disappointing explanations of uses.
And its a trip. You can start it on Page 3316!
HYLOMAR UNIVERSAL BLUE is a polyester-urethane gasket dressing that is a NON-SETTING compound you can use around the boat for other things you need to take apart later, and galvanic separation.
Idea is to fill the mini imperfections between the gasket and the fiberglass and/or metal surface. Better leak insurance than just depending on tightening up a dry gasket joint.
Believe it's distributed by Permatex and available in Permatex displays at the auto supply.
It's good for water and fuel and is NOT SILICONE based.
Don't have to scrape this dressing to get it off - easily removed with acetone.
As I see it, while synthetic gasket rubbers are getting longer lived, they still have to be replaced once in a while, especially electric fittings - so why not make it easy on ourselves.
Cut out thinner gaskets with X-acto knife and cardboard patterns. For round gaskets I just got a General gasket cutting tool that does inside and outside diameters at the same time. Some rubber like EPDM slithers around under pressure. You will notice in the online McMCarr catalog that some sheet is textured - this obviously is to create some tooth and to hold gasket dressing better for watertightness.
Foam stays put better for a seal. Dressing helps. You can get some dressing that acts like an adhesive and keeps the gasket from moving. May be necessary on freestanding fittings that capture the gasket only with fastening holes. Want the flange of the fitting to create a groove in the gasket, so some set is needed, that's why I lean toward closedcell foam material.
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LED Replacement Lightbulbs for Navigation lights, etc.
Hey all:
I have ordered a selection of different LED replacement lightbulbs from 'Mastlight.com'. Their LED bulbs are 12v DC making them simply 'Plug & play' in most of our basic systems. No need to modify wriring or add gizmos.
I will be trying some different bulb types for the original Pearson factory navigation lights as well as interior lighting and steaming light. (My mast mounted steaming light is not an original fixture.)
I will post the results of my fit test and recommendations based on my results here once I receive the LEDs and try them out. I've been looking for this sort of product to complete my recently re-plated original nav light installation, so I am looking forward to getting these bulbs.
If there is interest in a group buy, let me know and I'll look into this. I had a nice chat with the guy that runs the shop and discussed the possibility of adding a custom page on his web site for Members of the Pearson Ariel/Commander association in order to make the search and purchase simpler & easier.
If you want to look around the website is: http://www.mastlight.com
The website is nicely set-up to search for the type of bulbs needed, and it also lists many replacement bulbs for the most common nav light fixtures out there.
Most importantly, this vendor has insight into the boating and has taken the specific marine use of his LEDs into account (including the right height for the typical fixtures' lens, and degree of visibility) something that most other LED vendors take for granted. (most are set-up to cater to the gaudy show-car/motorcycle, etc. markets...)
In the past, I've asked a few current commercial LED marine nav light manufacturers for help in my desire to retrofit my original fittings with an LED. Several of them stated that it was just impossible, and that I would be non-compliant with the Coast Guard and recommended that I buy their fancy fixtures... (most of which would look silly on a Commander!) even though the acknowledged the market demand for a simple replacement bulb...
Some FYI:
Are LED Bulbs approved by the USCG ?
Following the existing regulations, only the light housing (Fixture assembliess) are subject to an official approval (it must have the right color, be tinted in the mass and resist to ageing). Luminous sources must not get an agreement. However, lights must conform to the International Regulations of the IMO, which specifies the visibility distance of navigation lights.
- Since our lights' degrees-of-visibility are determined by actually blocking out the light from view, (note the wings on the stern light fixture for example) I think that the use of LEDs is perfectly fine in the case of our (or similar) fixtures. If a nav light relies on lens refraction for its precise degrees of visibility, then you might have a issue with the actual location of the light source. Not the case with our fixtures.
- It is recommended that you use COLORED LED bulbs as required for nav lights.(i.e. LEDs that emit RED / GREEN light as opposed to white light)
The reason that the colored LED bulbs are better is that the colored light emitted by the LED is more closely compatible with the tint of the glass /plastic filter thereby allowing MORE of the LED's available light to pass through the filters. (i.e. - they seem BRIGHTER).
As it turns out the original bulbs (incandecent) are: #90 Bulb bayonet type with opposing pins and two terminals on the bottom. Overall length 1-3/8 (Pictured below).
One Mfr number is: 90 12v 6CP - if you want to buy the incandecent version replacements.