Golly!
MOST-SUM!
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Golly!
MOST-SUM!
Ditto on that boot stripe! She's really coming together nicely. Well done!
Absumlutely!
Stunning
emmm aaaazing, yea..
The chain plates are installed. and the rub rail is comming along, the windows are ready for tommorrow.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_IMG_1049.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_IMG_1048.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_IMG_1046.jpg
In the water she goes, Mast to follow today, hopefully if all goes well she'll be ready to sail end ong the weekend/mid week.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_P1010010.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_P1010011.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_P1010014.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_P1010015.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...n_P1010021.jpg
Absum!
A posse ad esse.
Put the mast up today, . . . Twice. The first time we had it set in place and ran the fore/back stays and the uppers, dropped the hook down and proceded to take the slack out of the stays and shrouds, then "Oh ****"(uttered by my wife) (timber!!!!) she spun the turn buckle the wrong way, and the forestay went flying, and the mast followed. crushed the sailtrack in where it hit the aft most part of the toe rail, chipping up the new awlgrip. Aie me.
Moral! Tighten up the turnbuckles Before! you drop the hook. The reason we didi it in a hurry is we used the day sail lift and it was bouncing of the mast, in hind sight a little bouncing, is/was/would have been better then the big bounce.
Ahh the first weekend of sailing.
Feels good to get 'em back in the water, don't it! :D
Congrats on all the hard work!
yes yes it does, was an excellent weekend on the upper bay, friday was 10-15's, sat was 10's, sunday evening blew out to nice cruisin 5's, good temps too, mid 80's
Well all, you were an excellent resource. I will be sure to pass along this site to the new owners when she aquires them, as of current she is owned by the marina.
Thank you all.
Guess the new owner never showed up, I seen #97 out last saturday below Havre de Grace. Last spring I seen it on CL for $1500. Talk about a gut check.
No respect!! Buy her back!
Is this her? I almost bought her last year but the owner seemed to lose interest in selling her. But here she is again, someone will be getting a good deal.
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/boa/3040108651.html
One in the same!!
I still think they need sails they are flying the same blown out rags I had up in 06...
Bill found the ad - again up for sale:
1963 Pearson Ariel. A Classic Carl Alberg design. Newer red Algrip paint on hull. Decks redone. Atomic 4, Garmin depth sounding and gps, One main and 4 head sails. Thick fiberglass due to vintage. Chain plates moved to outside for added strength. Email me or provide a number where you can be contacted. Small as they are, these boats have crossed oceans. Reduced to $2999 OBO Moving to bigger boat.
http://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/3185149610.html
Hey, so I bought #97 a couple of weeks ago and what-do-ya-know her she is! She is a great little boat and I am super happy. Things in my life got turned upside down this spring and I was fortunate to have been able to sell my boat in CA.... and then buy this little sweet heart here in the Chesapeake.
The PO didnt really know anything about the history of the boat, so aside from what I could see and touch, i bought her 'as-is' on the spot. I was a little anxious, but seeing as how a lot of hard work has already been done to her, i felt pretty good about the purchase.
So... I have some questions...
ok, so I have become familiar with the boat... we have bonded and even spent the nite together. but, i have some historical questions, the A4... whats the story? it seems to run fine, but the oil pressure drops quickly below 40 psi and usually its around 10, sometimes less. I have tried to adjust the oil pressure adjustment screw, however, it seems to be at full (open). Was this an issue when you had the boat? has it ever been rebuilt? would the Havre de Grace marina have paper work on maintenance or rebuilds?
Did you service the rudder/shoe when you did the other work? What was the state of the rudder in 06? I say this as it seems a bit sloppy at present.
did you have a water problem at any point? i notice the prop shaft leaks a bit. There are currently 4 bilge pumps... but the bilge seems pretty dry.
thanks!
So, it has begun! I have had a great time sailing and getting to know the Pearson Ariel this summer and fall but it is time to get down to business. You know the saying, "You can have time, or money, but you cant have both"? Or something like that... Well, I have been given the gift of time, or at least until the spring. So, once the boat comes out the water and placed on the lawn I should have nearly a full time schedule to do a major refit on the boat this winter and complete the job the previous, previous own didnt finish.
You may have seen the last refit on A97 which was done in 2006.
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...?1332-Ariel-97
And though I appreciate the hard work that was previously done... there was certainly some debatable choices made and some areas that were never completed, namely, the interior. I have lived aboard an offshore sailboat when I was a wee lad and so one of the main goals of the refit is the interior and make her seaworthy to sail up to Maine next summer.
Anyway, as a designer and fabricator I am treating this project as any other major project, so to get started I made a spread sheet to try and prioritize all the projects against time and money. I have uploaded a spread sheet on Google Docs. (you may need a Google account to view).
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...GtfUGJGRFVqSGc
Since i have not completed a marine project like this before it was interesting to see all the costs add up... as well as the time involved. also, it was very tricky coming up with a time estimates for each of the sub projects as there are going to be lots of parallel work going on, but whatever you have to start somewhere.
So, on to Phase 2... measure and design - I will be modeling the interior and cockpit in Solidworks, this will be ongoing, but I will post the model in progress. maybe, at some point I will model the entire boat for everyone to reference
purchase day...
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=v...SAXn-a0wf1ADqa
Great spreadsheet! I remember when A-97 was getting her external chainplates and her topsides painted. She'll be quite the looker when you're all done. Looking forward to watching your progress and seeing the pics!
request for better hull line drawings. I am modeling the entire boat but I would like to have the most accurate line drawings. I have the original elevation drawings but not the hull line drawing. The best that I have found so far is what I believe TonyG or Ebb had drawn over for a trailer quote. Can anyone help out here with a better copy? ideally something where I can read the dims?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ulllinesv1.jpg
There is a copy in the manual.
Here's the hull. whew. purty. there are a couple areas that if i were making actual parts I would be going back into solidworks to clean it up, however the hull is merely a pretty back drop for the interior.. which is really the point of all this. anyone interested in making half cuts?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps20d243e5.jpg
What better hull lines could you want?
These are the lines with Alberg's signature
and are as accurate as they can possibly be.
Whether Pearson in the 60's faithfully translated those
lines into the final fiberglass boat we have
is open for discussion.
I do not believe anybody has redrawn lines
measuring from actual sailing Ariels and Commanders
- and published those lines.
Some surprising differences will be found, imco.
Said elsewhere here, you can take page 144 from the Manual
to a copyshop and have them enlarge the image to EXACTLY
9 1/4" WATERLINE and an exact 4" beam.
That will give you a scale for the Ariel's 18'6"WL and 8' beam.
(Believe the Commander WL is different.)
Did the same with all the other Ariel drawings in the Manual.
Downloaded a 1:12scale 'doll house' ruller, that has foot graduations
in 12 rather than 1/8s.
Because you are using unknown gens of copies, this is a close-enough- but-no-cigar approach.
When you have the enlarged-to-scale drawings, you check the other known measurements,
like the published full length and depth
& should find that what you have is pretty accurate.
What we have is what we all have - and that
is the actual reality of the sailboat.
So you should take actual measurements from non-remodeled boats.
using a copy of a copy, of a sketched over copy, of a fax of the original Ariel hull lines drawing, I was able to create the hull by transposing the other Ariel drawings of the cabin elevations and measurements of Ariel #97... about as accurate as its gonna get. I am working on the deck/cabin currently, which is a whole lot more complex, but I would say that the hull lines drawing, from the manual, has been very trustworthy so far. Once, i get down to brass tacks I will run into some of the deviations. When i am finished I will upload a 100% accurate drawing packet of Ariel #97 which should be about 99% accurate to everyone else... that last 1% is a doozy!
Now to get down to work... here is the preliminary layout.
Strbd side aft is a 6' quarter berth with about 1/2 under the cock pit seats. The cockpit is going to get teaked over so there wont be a locker door, but I am going to keep the 'icebox' access... more on this later, i still need to model the cockpit.
Strbd side mid is a vertical ice chest with a 2" stainless pole which will attach to the cabin roof, next to love seat. The pole will also act as a pivot for an adjustable table on a metal arm. (not shown).
Strbd side 'v berth' is the relocated dresser and drawers.
Forepeak not yet finalized, but probably will be toilet with storage/water tank.
Companion way large quarter round surface and step, completely removable for easier engine compartment access.
Port side aft galley with sink.
Port side mid single/double berth with slide out. Head placement is aft with a foot cubby through main bulkhead.
Port side 'v berth' single berth.
Settee and aft berth height is 16" off the cabin floor for more storage and better leg room in aft berth.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psf43bd957.jpg
The main bulkhead is going to have two shear walls sandwiching a non symetrical series of compression posts, this is primarily to compensate for the foot cubby in the main cabin. Also, I had created round cut throughs to allow better light and air movement into the main cabin... and, some what by accident I created different sized circles which i actually like.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps471b96d6.jpg
Any thoughts?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psb7440da7.jpg
that is a nice group of images. i actually have an easier time visualizing the spaces in 3 views vice isometric (but that is just an old school thought). so a couple questions. where will the forward edge of the aft galley counter space land relative to the port lights? also a question on the starboard quarter berth.. is there room to squeeze back into these spaces?
the curved panels look very cool. if you have time to mock up any of this full scale in cardboard it is good insurance that you will love the result in plywood.
like the others on the thread, 'can't wait to see the tools come out and the changes begin.
cheers,
bill@ariel231
What a great head start to the project. It would be great to get such a good feel for the end result and play around with ideas with out having to scrounge around behind grocery stores looking for cardboard boxes. I like your layout, seems open and functional. The head is the sticky wicket, just not too many options for placement other than the centerline on such a small boat.
Mike
C227
Hubba-hubba! She's got curves and I'm all in.
That is one fine interior layout. It looks very livable. Sliding your main bulkhead opening over is a real game changer. That small act really alllows some big, yet subtle, options to become viable. when do we start?
Well I started, yesterday! Day 1, demo day. I was able to knock out all of the interior except the main bulkhead. I forgot to take close ups pics of the mast support beam.... however I would like you all to help me decide as to whether or not is necessary to rebuild it. Im inclined to leave it as it looks ok, but we can decide later.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2a7eb15.jpg
pretty standard. the galvanized tank was swiss cheese on the bottom and it sounded like a box of rocks when i lifted it out. any takers?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psb8447d9f.jpg
btw, the A4 engine was just sitting on the engine mounts with the bolts just dangling... apparently the nuts were just too difficult to tighten for the last person who installed the engine... in 1993. ha.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a4ef51d.jpg
where, oh where, to put a bilge drain? hmm. how about not. I mean really, this seams like such a bad idea, especially when the hardware is mickey-moused as most of the rest of the items on this boat.... notice also the keel void drain just below. (Not in the picture, nylon threaded plugs, painted black.)
i didnt take a picture of the engine seacock. I can turn the entire through hull with only the slightest of pressure. its a good thing this boat has stayed in its slip for most of its life.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps43fa6347.jpg
what is this glassed over thing on the hull? I guess we shall see!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9a4018d.jpg
Ok, so the holidays are finally over... man, living on both coasts is a real pain in the ass. However, my mom is gone for a couple weeks, so I can get down to business with out interruption. Expect a bunch of progress, and questions!
I have a bit more demo and exploration of the main bulkhead, before I can really start with a clean slate, however I have a question about 'marine' plywood... what is difference, aside from the cost?
Also, Im 90 minutes from anywhere (annapolis) so where is a good place to buy fiberglassing materials online? nonblushing and 'fast' hardner, since I am working outside in the winter.
Well...........
There is a wide range of marine plywood on the market. It goes all the way from plywood that simply has water proof glue to the certified plywoods like BS1088 Meranti. I for one would highly recommend the BS1088 meranti for your plywood needs. The cost is not a lot more when you consider the fact that you never want to redo a bulk head just because you tried to save a few pennies up front. Here is a link to tell you all about BS1088 plywood.
http://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/help.php
As far as buying fiberglass materials online (like you I am in BFE and am forced to buy online) I really like the cost and working
characteristics of the epoxy from these folks. They have reasonable costs on the cloth also and I have bought some of my cloth from them to keep my shipping charges down.
http://www.raka.com/
Hope this helps some.
What Jerry is saying is the absolute!
There is no finer plywood available to the boatbuilder than meranti. It's made with very thin veneer phillipine mahogany.
glued under heat & pressure with phenolic. A glue that under goes boil tests for delamination that formadehyde glue can't touch.
It is usually dead flat and dead straight. With very few if any footballs on the face BS1088 is the best of best. Grade means there are no voids in the inner layers. You'll find it stampted on the edge of the laminate. It is simply beautiful plywood.
There is a lesser grade without the British Standard 1088 that might be OK. Usually the 1088 is all dark wood and you might find white wood (there are many species of phillipine m. trees, and I've heard the popularity of the plywood stretchs the Standard.
So the Standard may be slipping. I'd assume your lumberteria gets their meranti from a single source
and the lesser grade isn probably manufactured by the same Isralli outfit that crafts the high end stuff. All of it is imported.
Imco if your design calls for 1/2" fir plywood you can half the scantlings with meranti.
I bought some American Plywood Association stamped marine plywood once and it was junk. There were voids and broken veneers inside.
There is no recognized standard for marine fir ply last time I looked.
Veneers are thick and the glue is every day exterior formaldehyde rolled on thick or thin, or not at all.... the manufacturer doesn't give a damn.
Interior veneers can have sapwood or non-fir trash wood, which will lead to rot.
Excuse this rant, but I'll wager
there isn't a single sheet of any kind of plywood made in this country that is exported overseas.
Plywood here is a joke. Of course there is always an exception - never heard of one!
NOT REALLY AN EXCEPTION:
If you insist on using fir ply, get MDO. It is exterior ply with one or both sides covered with resin impregnated kraft paper.
Everyone calls it 'sign-painters ply'. Get the double sided stuff, otherwise it will bend on you. It's great because no-one
can paint fir plywood, this stuff makes it easy. It's still APA plywood, voids, footballs and screwed up layers. Can use it
for bulkheads. Bet meranti is the same price or cheaper! Meranti can be found that will look exactly like Honduras when
sealed and varnished!
As for epoxy, I won't buy West Systems... for reasons found in many threads in this Forum.
Please find a source for NO-BLUSH laminating epoxy. Don't have to put up with 2nd rate epoxy products.
And if you are new to the stuff, read up on it in the many threads here. And then ask specific questions.;)
alright, well, 30 hours later and almost all the demo and grinding is done... phew. I am getting tired of cold showers! I will post a couple pics of the interior tomorrow, but things are pretty much as expected. The mast support looks great, thank god, but I nixed the starboard side of the main bulkhead in preparation of the offset doorway.
Im getting excited to start building!
Another major decision that I have made is to turn the Atomic 4 inboard motor into a mooring anchor... I have decided to repower the boat with electric instead of rebuilding the A4. I had been teetering on the edge of this decision for some time, however the last straw was getting a call from the marina where I had left the motor saying that they were flooded by rain/tide and that the motor had spent the night under water... yeah, the irony is hard too imagine. After I got the motor to the shed, i drained all the fluids and took the oil pan off.
It is still very rebuildable, but it was never the project i wanted.... it just came with the boat so i was obligated, but in looking to the long term future, not just next year or the year after with this boat but several boats down the line, maybe I would want to repower one of those. Whether you are interested or not electric is going to be the way to go. Might as well try it out now!
Anyone, need a mooring anchor?
Yes, this is good info. Warren Woodworking in Easton, MD has BS1088 Meranti which is great cuz Easton is only 30 minutes away. I think i just sold another motorcycle so i should have the funds for this project, at least for a while...
also, i found another epoxy site. It has a good bit of info and prices though it can be a bit difficult to stay on track...
www.epoxyproducts.com
anyone, have any experience with these guys?
Drats! btw, 38" is the maximum that can fit through the companion way...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps98a5d678.jpg
Anyway, after two weeks of demo, grinding, sanding, scraping, dislodging, cursing the PO, cursing the PPO and constant cold showers the interior was finally prepped for construction this weekend. Omg, finally! So, to start I made a new main bulk head with 3/4" BS1088 Okoume after testing with several 3/16" Luan templates. As it turns out Warren Woodworking in Easton wanted to charge 230 bux for a sheet of 3/4" Meranti... so, i drove to Annapolis and bought what i needed from Chesapeake Light Craft (www.CLCboats.com). At 170 a sheet it was worth the drive.
So, the main bulkhead is about ready to get glassed on the 'aft' side. I still need to get the mast support beam compression posts ready. I also need to make the 'forward' main bulkhead to sandwich the compression posts. I was originally thinking of using 1/2", but now im not so sure its necessary. I think 1/4" would be fine as this is a bit overkill anyway. The purpose of the added sheer wall, in my mind, is to help with the sheering forces and redistribute forces around the multiple cutouts.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pseaf53f13.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6a5d504c.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps796cd886.jpg
You must be a young man because you are going at this with the zeal of a young man. Lot of progress and looking good so far. I will enjoy watching the boat take shape so please keep posting.
Young, but no spring chicken, ive been around the block. however, I am on sabbatical of sorts, actually, I am caregiving for my mom who had a stroke last year. She is doing great, so good in fact she has been in florida for the past two weeks, which has allowed me to attack the interior with 'zeal'.
I would have to say that I am relishing both my mom's recovery and the time that I have been given to really sink my teeth into such an 'all encompassing' project.
speaking of zeal, i have been rereading your rebuild of Destiny and I have to say that zeal isnt everything. You have really upped the game with thoughtful design and craftsmanship. I have certainly been taking Que.
One particular modification that you have made, internal halyard masthead blocks, is one i am definitely interested. Once I get some headspace for this modification I will be in touch, most probably in April/may when I attack the mast and spars. One question that I did have; it would seem likely that the halyard could get caught over the top or to the side of the block, during squally weather which would most surely cut the halyard in quick order. Had you considered a SS 'chock' welded on and bridging the entryway for the halyard? I admit this could add leverage of a twisted halyard to bend the entire assembly causing more serious problems...
I posted this question on Destiny's thread
I responded to your question in Destiny's thread.
It is really nice when you can dedicate a block of time to something like this. I'm stuck with whatever weekend days I can get that other plans have not been made for. I also go out and work on Destiny a few hours 2 or 3 nights a week. So I just keep plugging away and would really like to have her back in the water by November when the Florida sailing season really kicks off. I will just have to spend as much time as possible and see if I can make it happen.
update on the galley / main salon. a bit of 3/16" Luan ply makes for nice templating and mockups.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96b959bc.jpg
I had originally had thought to extend the companion way stairs/galley to full depth of 24" and make the large round to make a tangent arc from the galley to the aft berth.. however, the 'steps' were too steep to descend into the salon, so I cut the arc back.... unfortunately, not enough. I plan to shave back even further to the black/cross hatched arc.
also, the kero optimus stove is going to be hung on a gimbal under the counter with an access on the side. The sink sits directly behind. I am going to make the stove and the sink cut out the same dims so I can make a cutting board to cover / slide over either unused item.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps94b7f91d.jpg
The companionway stairs are removable to gain access to the electmotor/batteries, however its also dry storage! most likely garbage in the back and other stuff in the front. In 3D design i had thought this unit would be sealed from the sides, but when i mocked it up I used strips of ply to make the large curves, it was then that I had a realization to bend strips with a gap in between to allow people to see what was contained inside... i know, not really that amazing, but I also realized that I can use the same idea with the ice chest.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse761c9cd.jpg
The ice chest is going to be top loading, rectangular with a large arc on the inboard side. The area under the arc will be easily accessible and the bent strip enclosure will match the companion way stairs. On the top of the arc is going to be a 2" SS pole going all the way to the cabin roof.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3cb3ce3b.jpg
also, i received all my fiberglassing materials today so I should have some structural progress, i.e. main bulk head in the next couple days.
I love it! In post #156 you say "not really that amazing", I say fantastic. This will prove to be a great rebuild we will all be watching.
Here's a link to a thread about building your own gimballed mount for an kerosene camp stove.
http://www.spiritburner.com/fusion/s.../37/tid/28935/
Looking forward to following your progress on your boat.
Port side compression post base lamination. ive been making some really odd shaped pieces, however finally this piece is not just a template. Anyway, since i moved the doorway over about 6 inches to port I realized that I needed a compression post base that would dissipate the load from going directly to the hull.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pseeab489a.jpg
Here you can see the lamination screwed, epoxied and finished. The whole time I was making this piece I kept shaking my head, thinking that this was complete 'amature hour', however once I got it dry fitted it seemed to work. After I ground/sanded and then epoxied the endgrain... im pretty happy. it sure is strong enough.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps50a720e6.jpg
As you can see the center compression post is really doing all the work, what percentage I cant really say, but some where in 80% range. However, I was fortunate to have had a local wood worker mill down some fresh white oak for me so I had plenty to work with...
the burn marks on the compression posts and support beam is because Lowes' only had 2 1/2" SS screws, so I had to cut off about 1/8" that poked through. Lame. But, once I seal the bulkhead together with 1/4" ply no one is going to see
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse14b3fef.jpg
wow, very nice. actually, the whole boat surrounding that bit of steam punk bronze casting is pretty special. but, a bit too special for me. I am thinking of building one of James Baldwin's gimbaled stoves (http://atomvoyages.com/cys/atomstove.html), these are a little more functional, less form. Anyway, trying to encorporate this stove into the cabinetry is starting to make my head spin. If you look to post #155 you can see the little kerostove on the galley surface, but what I think i am going to have to do is make a stove 'drawer' that slides out from under the countertop. I think this area is posing the most design challenge for me as there are so many other uses for this area... access to the stove, access to the sink, access under the counter, other possible drawers for storage and then how all this collides with the port side settee seating.... and i really do mean collides, as there is not one extra inch of space in this little ship. ha!
I chuckle every time I see an ad for an Ariel that says "beamy". Love the rounded passageway!
Your work is definitely not amature hour. I really like what you are doing to 97. The curves are a gracious surface to deal with when in such a tight space. While some make a very valid argument that these rounded cabinets don't equate to maximum usage of space for storage, we can counter with the fact that there just isn't enough space to begin with to worry about such matters. I for one will live with curves!
You have inspired me scale back ambition to a more realistic level. You can only have so much in one of these hulls so go simple, with regards to systems, and elegant in style. Looking forward to the next installment!
yes, a valid argument. well, the world around us has created lots of boxes and so a curved cabinet is most definitely going to lose the fight in terms of space efficiency... but, i have a couple things to say against this argument, firstly, I am a man that is more interested in fung shui than fitting the most boxes in a container. If it doesnt fit in the container then try another container, and if that still doesnt work you might not need it in the first place!
Secondly, I have lived in a boat and can tell you from first hand experience that square cabinets will in fact inflict harm given the chance. I will admit that the curves I am introducing are a bit over sized however, but I am also trying to expand the standing/moving room in between the different parts of the galley/salon.
Also, if you remove an engine and expand the interior volume of the Pearson Ariel by making a quarter berth from the under the cockpit seating.... you gain quite a bit of storage!
In regards to keeping systems simple... I am trying but not sure if I am succeeding. The electric conversion is no joke if you are trying to DIY. I have done a bunch of research but am still far from having the system even specified, let alone bought, fabricated, installed or tested.
Have you looked into these systems? It will cost you perhaps 50% more in material costs but the system is mostly plug and play and was designed by an electrical engineer. I choose to go this way with my electrical conversion because I am not an electrical engineer and felt the added cost of materials was worth the cost.
http://www.electricyacht.com/products/quietorque/
I think your curves look GREAT!.
Where you have second thoughts, you might modularize
by making the cabinet/locker/railing removable.
EG, don't epoxy it in.
Can bed structures in using butyl tape & screws for water integrity.
AND next century later do the epoxy.
[Only recently on A338 has it dawned on me that instead of the massive tabbing and gluing....
I should have built up the volumes using 1/4" meranti. Pasting thin panel structures together with fillets
and light weight glass cloth. Call it flat panel stitch&glue. Actaully paste, fillet & cover. Amazing strong.
Of course, you still tab cleats or plates (or bulkheads) to the hull for anchoring the boxes.
And lockers and cabinets can be glued - or better - merely screwed.
Use removable trim, moldings, rails to tie things together!]
In a nutshell, here is the system I am leaning towards
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevc...kit-8.5kw.html
motor mount, prefab
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ts-gear-reduction.html
batteries, 12v 100Ah AGM, group 27 (x4). Not sure what manufacture yet, but in the 200-250 per battery range= 800-100 bux (ish)
The thunderstruck kit seems reasonable, they have 'some' sailboat experience and the controller is preprogrammed which means they are willing to provide support. (I already spoke with them about this.) In terms of cost, we a talking a 1500-2000 dollar difference compared with Electricyacht, once you factor batteries. To me, in my, very limited budget.... a little extra work on my end is ok.
One other consideration in terms of money is that I can buy the motor and mount and at least get moving on the fabrication and testing without plunking down 5k... though, i wish i had 5k to just plug and play!
I fully understand the money issue. Have you read Mike's account on his commander C227? I believe he used a Thunderstruck system also. He might be able to give you some pointers.
What will you use for a throttle?
Also something you will absolutely need is a fuse and it needs to be a VERY HEAVY DUTY ONE. Here is a picture of the one Electric Yacht sent me with my system. It is a Littlefuse JLLN 200. These systems can create massive amounts of current flow in an overload and can easily burn the boat down to the water.
Harbor Freight makes boat sheds! well, not actually. I was perusing the classifieds in 'Good old boat' magazine and saw a coupon for a Harbor Freight 10x20 car canopy for 99 bux and thought to myself, gee wouldnt it be great to not work in the snow and rain?! So, on my way back from watching the Superbowl i stopped at harbor freight and picked it up, then made a stop at Lowes' and bought three pieces of 1 1/2" galvanized conduit, six 1/4-20 bolts and some steel rebar.
when i got home I cut the 10 foot conduit tubing in half and made leg extensions by sliding the base of the canopy leg 12" inside the conduit and then through bolting. the bottom of the legs are sitting over 24" steel rebar pounded in to the ground.
For additional cross bracing I used some of my extra line to go from the top of the center side support to the bottom of the outer leg. Voila!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps307c579f.jpg
yes, these are the kinds of things i need to know. the kind of detail that can kill you. The interesting thing about the electric conversion is that you can upgrade over time, but items like quality contactors and fuses that can withstand the rigors of the marine world and very high amperages are what is going to keep me and the boat safe. No skimping here!
Feel free to contact me if you would like any of my input on your electric motor design. I have designed, built and installed a few as well as installing a few from Parsons and Electric Yachts. The unit I built for The Princess has been operating flawlessly with very regular use for three years now.
My email can be found in my profile.
Mike
C227
will do, thanks! actually, your write up was one of the things that made me seriously consider doing the conversion on the Ariel.
Another fellow, Chris McKesson who is a naval architect and sailor did a conversion on his Columbia 36 . He has a realistic approach that I appreciated.
Another rainy day in feb, so while i sit in the comfort of the fireplace I thought I would send some updates. It has been raining or sleeting the past several days which pretty much sux. I work as much as I can tolerate but walking across a swampy lawn to get to my shed or cutting table in the rain is no fun. I can wait for warm and dry as I will be able to get a lot more done in a single day.
Anyway, a bunch of progress on several fronts, the most encouraging is port side galley and settee. As you will see, not complete however, for better or worse, important decisions have been made; things rearranged, plywood cut and fiberglass set...
so, the stove is going to slide out from under the galley countertop. This large drawer is going to allow my single burner optimus stove to gimbal and underneath will be a storage for pots and pans. To the right (further to port) is the vertical ice chest. I am using the OEM icebox door, hey one less thing I have to make! To construct the box I have laminated 3 pieces of 1" foam to a piece of 3mm ply on one side and some x-mat on the other. Once these pieces are cut to size I will insert into the cabinet, attach and then glass the corners. I think this will make a pretty sizable ice chest
but wait, Where is the sink? well, i moved it... it is now in the 'L' mid ship with the vertical pole... hmm, back to the rabbit hole of choices. why? well, basically because this little ship just does not have the room for the sink and stove to be next to each other. I tried all the permutations and if they were next to each other then one of them was squished or inaccessable. But, why not move the stove to the 'L' and leave the sink where it was... umm, one of my conditions was to have the stove be flush with the countertop; i.e. out of the way when not in use. I think I was nearly ready to toss the coin but then I thought that I would rather have a large portion of counterspace right next to the stove when cooking.... dont mind getting burned while accessing the icebox.... oh well.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9e2fe395.jpg
here is the port settee main support which will divide 3 separate watertight lockers from side access open lockers
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36c7e514.jpg
Here is the port settee/master birth with the 3 holes for 10" deckplates giving access to the watertight compartments and the other half... the 12" dia rounded cutout is the weirdness necessary to have a large 'stove' drawer slide out from under the galley countertop. If you are wondering if the bunk is a little short, I havent cut the hole through the main bulkhead for a foot well. I haven decided on a final shape...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse241b929.jpg
The 'stove' drawer has to slide out 13-14" to allow the stove to gimball correctly which is what you see here. oh, man the pros and cons! having a clean slate is really pretty cool, however the shear amount of different design criteria makes me woozy. So, the biggest negative here is that in order to have the port settee convert into a large double bunk the sides have to flip up, however since there is this really odd shaped piece missing I cant just make a flip up. instead I think i am going to make a single large L-shaped piece that will detach and get stowed on the ceiling of aft bunk (underside of the cockpit seat).
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1eb75b0.jpg
view of the companion way stairs, less stairs. also, on the left is a mock up piece for the aft bunk. this bunk will extend all the way back to the lazerette, however the flat portion will be about 2/3. Once I get my hands on a small opening port I am going to mount this facing the cockpit to allow better ventilation and light into the aft berth.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4f093ddd.jpg
some more holes... does anyone have this many holes in their stern? I had two that were not even being used. Originally I didnt want to touch the topsides, but I couldnt resist. Plus I figure I can 'roll & tip' the stern and no one will be the wiser.
btw, how do I go about paint matching this?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps779cb9ee.jpg
The large hole on the bottom was where the exhaust was ported. It had huge globs of thickened epoxy, but i can tell that this was not the original exhaust port as there was no additional glass
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps51e115d4.jpg
Great update!! Lookin good...very creative and inspiring!!!
The PO - "tha3rdman" - mentioned Awlgrip Matterhorn White for the decks earlier in the thread. I'd think he probably used the same paint manufacturer on the hull.
Personally, I've always thought a wooden overlay on our Alberg transoms would look really nice:
It worked for Jimmy Buffet.
Attachment 8785
More to scale.
Attachment 8787
Or, if you want to get really fancy.
Attachment 8786
(I thought I had a pic of a CD22 but can't find it.)
ooo. nice, hadnt thought of that, but im not sure a wood stern would go that well with fire engine red. maybe some day if i repaint the topsides.
as far as the color is concerned I guess I could call the little boatyard in Havre de Grace, they may have someone that might know.
well, there is 2 inches of standing water on the lawn (swamp) due to the latest, and hopefully last, winter storm here in MD, so I thought I might post some questions... i have completed the cabinetry of the galley, port settee and the stbd settee base. I stopped after glassing in the stbd settee base as I am not sure as to how the attack raised portion with the sink, shelving, storage and swing out table. I am going to pick up some materials this afternoon so i might have a better idea tomorrow.
Anyway, i moved forward into the v-berth area and had some questions, particularly about a marine head. I was not sure about wether or not I was even going to attempt plumbing a toilet... but alas as I started to kick around layout ideas I felt that I could make it happen. So, the question I have is: is the possible location for a holding tank (seen below) make sense? and what is a an acceptable minimum size? and should I make a box or can I just glass a holding tank in place, directly attached to the hull?
What you will see below is a piece of template ply with a 12"dia round on the side closest to the door frame extending to the port side hull. If you were to extend the lines of this shape straight down you would see what I am thinking for a holding tank. I would guesstimate being around 5 gal. The top surface of the holding tank would be the footwell for the main salon double birth. The toilet will be just forward of the holding tank, mounted on a pedestal, positioned as close to the port hull surface as acceptable.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dfd5571.jpg
You will also notice the single birth mocked up on the stbd side. Its pretty high up and I was thinking of having the top hinged at the hull intersection to allow top access. Being as deep as it is it should allow for storage of some pretty bulky items... a sail locker?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1db5865.jpg
Not exactly sure what is going to happen on the port side of the v-birth area, however I do know that the 31 gal Vetus flexible water tank is going to go where the rusted out OEM water tank was located. The increased size of the tank is going to make the cabinet containing it extend from the forepeak bulkhead to the pedestal base of the original marine toilet location. We will see how the tank and the seacocks like this arrangement...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psa4281867.jpg
Here is the port settee/main birth with seat back in position for relaxing. The seat back doubles as the birth extender by detaching and attaching to the edge of the birth. It will extend the bed to about 40" at its widest, also this allows full access to the v-birth/head.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps919fa466.jpg
And here it is with the seat back in the double birth mode... you will notice the weird shape missing. This piece will have to be inserted into place to make a solid bed surface and then stored elsewhere when not in use
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psf47eb32d.jpg
btw, the footwell opening isnt large enough... i started my cut small, but it needs to gain about 3" in height to accommodate the cushion height. It also needs to get wider...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pscca2ee95.jpg
here is the mock up of the folding table. not sure yet as to whether the arm is going to be fixed to the pole and allow the pole to swivel in place or fix the pole and allow the arm to pivot... i am leaning towards having the table arm pivot and detach so I could use the table in the cockpit, weather permitting.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6536e6aa.jpg