Ariel #97

You got a nice and sure touch there Capt Soup.
It's going to be fantastic when it's dolled up and trimmed out.

Epoxy primers will seal the wood, making finish painting easy.
Primed with thin white epoxy and with SW Proline sanding epoxy primer for the cosmetics.
Seal all wood surfaces in inaccessable areas to keep mold at bay, but aye didn't bother with finish coat.
It would be better to have easy to keep clean epoxy enamel there, to make sure it sticks forever. Too much for me.
ShermanWilliams makes great paints, including hard to find marine paints.
Used their Proline sanding epoxy primer all over the boat. BUT

But I don't/can't do that anymore.
Now go with waterborne, water reducible coatings.

Inside painting you might find low VOC SYSTEM3 waterborne sandable epoxy primer useful and even FUN.
WR-155 (Water Reducible). It can be used as a general epoxy primer.
But it's meant to be the prep for their WR LPU paint which you'd use outside, enjoying the benefit of no toxic flamable solvents and fumes. You don't need a first primer with the 155 - roll it on and sand it - for any paint.
There's a learning curve (and a wallet curve) with System3 stuff........ but for me it's been worth it.

Before any paint (last concession to the toxic gods) just naturally will brush on a slightly thinned (penetrating*) coat of laminating epoxy to actually seal and waterproof the plywood. Keep paint from peeling. Easy and quick. Do work with the least toxic laminating epoxy availablle. Don't think they've waterborned that stuff yet!
Not mixed with anything and put on thin, its easy to sand/scuff/smooth and follow with any fairing mix and epoxy sanding primer. Or nowadays skip the primer with the new bigbox acrylic/latex paints. Haven't done that. Depends on what you want to end up with. Or maybe how patient you are!

Shy away from urethane finish coats because imco you can't really successfuly paint over them down the line.
Also it's best to stay away from shiney anything down below, including varnish. Satin hides many sins.
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*you don't need to buy a special sealer like solventborne CPES. Mix your own using a little xylene. Bad stuff. Slap it on & leave the scene.

well, i finally got some of my electric drive engine mount parts back. thankfully i made the cradle very adjustable which came into immediate use as I was able to utilize a new (used) 7/8" Stainless prop shaft that was 4" longer. btw, Bacon Sails rocks! i found a hardly used stainless prop shaft for 15 bux!

So, the vibration damping feet are currently attached to the base via 1/4-20 screws into threaded inserts, 2 per foot... im on the fence about whether this is a little too whimpy. I guess I just dont know about the vibration and how it will affect the mounting. I figure that I will epoxy the threaded inserts and used blue locktite on all bolts that dont have lock washers. any thoughts?

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9121b0f2.jpg

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psa798e16e.jpg

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps18bcb70c.jpg

what to do? the bend of the track looks perfect, however the fabricator did not put an appropriate backer on the track before rolling so the top of the track got marred. I am annoyed as I think the hard anodizing is broken and will now corrode at a faster rate... I would like to start buttoning this boat up, but I dont want to have to take this off in a year or two to get reanodized... am i being weird and should just mount it?

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps011a0086.jpg

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pscfd3cf43.jpg

The path most have taken is to set a teak base under a section of straight track & through bolt them both to the deck. Surplus track is inexpensive and you already have the curve for the bottom of the teak base. Check the gallery for photos . . might want to search on traveler track, etc.

oh, yeah, i am reusing the bunk fiddle as a main traveler base (post #220) which i think will work out great, however my issue is: should I worry that the fabricator broke the surface of the hard anodizing of the track?

You asked for opinions and here is mine. I would go back to the fabricator and ask him to replace it. If he takes that little care in his chosen profession then he should expect to not make money.

This is what I meant by using a straight track and curved teak base:

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...Sheet-Traveler

I would not bend the track to fit the deck.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill

I would not bend the track to fit the deck.

too late! i alreadly leveled and faired the deck, epoxied a 1/4" backer underneith and bent the track! i really wanted the clean line of the back wall of the cockpit without the original glassed in mainsheet pulley stand-offs... im in this project so deep that I couldnt resist.

well... Im back. After a month long move across the country I am back in Maryland for the summer. whew. Packing one's life, stuffing it in a truck and driving at 60 miles an hour all the way across the country sux. Anyway, I have the summer to get back to work, unfortunately, I can not devote the full time schedule as I had before as I think I might not be engaged (to be married) for very long.

One notable event that happened while I was away in California was that I was able to meet Ebb, in person, and inspect his fine craftsmanship. We were able to talk shop and I was able to see all the construction details that web photos cant seem to capture. It was also great to see another Ariel that has such a dramatic interior layout. After sitting in his boat, and mine, it is pretty weird to see interior photos of a stock cabin!

however, before I left I was not able to upload any progress photos so I thought I might show how I left her a month ago.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps845bde4d.jpg
The final electric conversion base and motor cradle in place and ready for final fitment. I still have some glass work to do on the cock pit support and then a final paint...

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc192cd2.jpg
The new (used) shaft aligned and ready to go. I had prepped the bilge with barrier coat and then a couple coats for BilgeKote, man it looks great. The gratification in looking at this bilge, though still not complete, is wondrous.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0948882f.jpg
The under cockpit bunk is nearly ready for final glassing and the bunk base. You can see the glow through the glass of the hull where I stopped sanding just below the boot stripe and then a Sharpied' line a couple inches below for the bunk.... The clear deck plate will allow some ventilation to the lazerette (if needed) as well as access to the engine controls which will be mounted to the rear of the cockpit. This new bulkhead was mounted to the forward side of the aft drain of the former cockpit bench hatch... if that makes sense. This means that the lazerette gained a little cubic footage and that I can also access the engine controls from the lazerette side... I am also planning on mounting an opening port through the cockpit vertical wall to allow light and ventilation from the bunk into the cockpit footwell.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17841f91.jpg
The V-berth Lavac toilet mock up in place with a barrier coated base. I will install another low bulkhead to seal off this area which will contain any leakage, water or otherwise. These low bulkheads are more than 6" above the waterline which should make her 'unsinkable' in case of seacock/toilet failure. I have to say that I have come to love old Wilcox-Crittendon bronze, these seacocks were stuck but after disassembly, gentile persuasion, wire brushes and a little elbow grease they really come back to life.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psdec34bd5.jpg
A bit of Bilgekote on the inside of the cabinets before they get sealed up for good. Again, nice to get to the painting level of finish, makes me feel as though and end is in sight and I may be able to go for a sail!

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse1f80068.jpg
More under cabinet painting as well as the 3/4" chainplate backers epoxied into place.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1061e004.jpg
A new quarter circle shelf epoxied to the underside of the port side running light 'box'. This shelf will be duplicated on the other side and will be for easy access to small items. This shelf also marks the location of the new electric panel, just below. On the counter below is access to the vertical ice chest of which I am using one of the old teak cabinet doors (underneith my work gloves).

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps251020d4.jpg
A better view of the quarter shelf. I am also going to mount two 12v plugs on the running light 'box' to charge things like phones and other electronic gadgets.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0762e79a.jpg
A view looking back from the head. The compass has been removed so I can glass over this hole. I am removing this for the same reason that the former ice chest access hatch was glassed over. These two things make it impossible to sit in one of the two best locations to sit in the cockpit, back against the cabin, facing aft.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps698dd54f.jpg
This remains as the last bit of cabinet construction that I have yet to tackle... the sink area with its storage and connection to the aft bunk is still foggy in my mind. I do want to attack this pretty soon and have all the cabinet construction finished.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps07649cbf.jpg
All 30 or so holes filled and ready for final leveling and then painting. Teaking the cockpit is just not in the cards this time. Though I do have to cut one more oval hole for the opening port in the cockpit well for the aft bunk ventilation.

I have been slowly working on Triumph in the heat. Its kind of ironic, now when I can find the time to do some work the temperature makes it nearly impossible. In January, i remember working on the boat, looking outside, thinking how great it would be working in the summer... well, this past week its been 95 with 80 percent humidity. My brain slowed as the humidity solidified and imprinted my body onto whatever I happened to be sitting on. Sweating, I would trying and figure out the least physically intense operation... for about 10 minutes, then starting doing, whatever it was that I had sat down to do. another 10 minutes lost.

anyway, I did manage to finish up the aft bunk and get a good chunk of the galley/sink cabinet done. Since, i have been vacillating between several different design possibilities for the sink area, I am at least committed... its the finishing details that get me hung up. For instance, the termination of the aft bunk into the galley/sink cabinet has been really screwing with me; how the different elevations of the floor, bunk and opposing settee heights relate to one another, how the galley/sink cabinet opens to allow access and what happens with a door...? How the curved plywood of the base will intersect with other curved areas... oh god.

When I think back now to the question/argument of curved cabinets, I had previously thought the issue was about space efficiency vs aesthetics. Now I realize the spacial argument is moot. The real limitations of curved cabinets is in the design / build, as they take a HUGE amount of time to figure out, then the build is going to be infinitely more complex and more time consuming . But, I still love them. This boat is going to be awesome, someday.

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The upper portion, back of the cabinet, is going to be.... not sure. I thought it was a good space to add some 'sealed' storage, but just not sure what yet. Maybe electronics. Maybe cooking utensils.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psa9d8741e.jpg
One more concession that I have made is to use a 1-2 gallon holding tank for the sink and use the manual bilge pump, via 'y-valve', to clear the contents. Originally, I was going to plumb the sink back to the cockpit drain, however I realized that the likeliness of taking on lots of water while heeled over was inevitable. I thought about an in-line shutoff valve, but would I remember every time? no. Any thoughts?

Also, the piece of scrap ply on the top is the template for the sink. This image was taken yesterday before I cut the hole- I did change the orientation, rotating it 90 degrees.

stupid computer.... deleted my very lengthy post. In a nutshell, I was able to spend 5 days last week working on Triumph. I left feeling very accomplished as I near the end of the interior reconstruction. yay!

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psd5a3a730.jpg
all nearly leveled and faired, including the former compass hole

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psc73d0ea4.jpg
larger footwell access for the main salon double berth and finished galley sink cabinet

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0eec4f3d.jpg
sink is all secured and ready, all working surfaces are going to be topped with 1/4" bamboo just like the sink. Here the sink cabinet will get a pair of double curved doors meeting at the curve apex and the 1 1/4" PVC tubing will be replaced with piece of 1" SS tubing, locked in place to provide support for the edge.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse86249a5.jpg
chainlocker/deck support glassed in and a another low bulkhead forward of the toilet sealing the toilet area.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psf16e242a.jpg
forward portion of the main bulkhead complete along with most of the port side, v-berth storage area. It was great to see this area come together, just needs some shelving and finish work....

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps80128ead.jpg

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psd51f876c.jpg
It may be hard to tell, however, I offset the 11" holes through the main bulkhead to add a little better sight from the main salon to the port window. This also added a bit of whimsy as if you look dead on it looks like the opening has a crescent moon. I think I may light this thin interior space to further accent this.

WHOA! Those CAD pix on photobucket are terrific! Nice work!

http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a9...?sort=3&page=6

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucky Dawg

WHOA! Those CAD pix on photobucket are terrific! Nice work!

http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a9...?sort=3&page=6

hey thanks Dawg. yeah, i havent revised them since january, however I am working on the plan and elevation views of the redesign as I am going to be putting some of this enormous project in my portfolio. I will redo the renderings to reflect my final design pretty soon. I am say soon since I am looking for work and I think I might be interested in getting involved in the marine design/fabrication side of things in my professional career

you can see a quick blurb of this project and some of my other work here... www.carbonsoup.com

Dawg, here is a quick preview of the hull lines and layout drawings. These were made using SolidWorks and Illustrator, so as accurate as I think they could be made. I will upload these to the site in full vector for all to enjoy and edit when I get a chance.

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7eba4064.jpg

www.carbonsoup.com/a97triumph

Here is the beta release of my new Pearson Ariel, Triumph website. I still have a ton of content to insert and edit, so please excuse the lack there of, however please give me feed back on what I have available, site structure and suggestions. I would really appreciate it!

Once i have, most of it sorted out and uploaded I will move the site to a permanent domain.