Refrigeration

[S.Airing]

For those who care,here is how I installed my refrigeration system.The box has 4 inches of insulation all around,the lid has only 2.I didnt take any pictures many years ago when I built it,this is the best I can do.I am posting this only because only about a million people have asked me about refrigeration on such a small boat.

[S.Airing]

Here is how I mounted my evap.

[S.Airing]

I built a shelf in the starboard sail locker to mount the condenser.

[Bill]

From the photo, it appears the box is full of evaporator:confused: How much space does it have?

[S.Airing]

The forward side is deep,not sure of the size.About 2 cubic feet or so.I do know it will hold 30 beers,1/2 gallon of milk.1/2 gallon of juice,dozen eggs,4 chichen breast,4 steaks,bag of vegies. and still have room.That still leaves freezer open.It makes ice,and can keep ice cream.Easyer to keep a small full box cold than a large half full box cold.I could have made it bigger,still can.I stay out 4 or 5 days at a time ,plenty of room for food.Its certainly bigger than the original piece of crap ice box.The 4 inches of insulation on all sides takes up alot of space,when I tore out the old ice box I found the max. of 1 inch of insulation,some areas had none just plywood.

[commanderpete]

Pretty roomy fridge.

But, if you remove the milk, juice and veggies, you could probably fit another 30 beers.

Just trying to be helpful.

[c_amos]

I posted this on the SailFar.net site, I thought it might be of interest to others here.



Ok, I have re-evaluated my position on onboard refrigeration.

Having no icebox, and no desire to build one, I have opted for one of the small self contained units, specifically the Engle. The other one I looked at was the WAECO ADLER BARBOUR, now sold by west Marine.

Here is the add;

WAECO ADLER BARBOUR CF-025DC 7895808 Only $569.99 USD

Fully hermetic Danfoss BD35F compressor with integrated control electronics, low-voltage protection adjustable for consumer or starter battery by means of a slide switch, electronic fuse/automatic reverse pole protection, dynamically ventilated wire condenser, aluminum rollbond evaporator.
• 24 quarts
• 12/24 volts DC
• 35 watts
• +50°F to 0°F, adjustable via electronic thermostat with LED indicator
• 26.5 lbs.
• CFC-free polyurethane foam
• DC connection cable, detachable wire basket
• Detachable lid (lid mount at the front), interior light
• Vertical space for standing 2-liter returnable bottles
CF special electronics
No mention of the current draw beyond the 35w number. Given that this unit uses a conventional compressor, I expect they went with the 35w rating at 12vdc, rather then publish the current draw... can't be sure.



The Engle uses little current, and fits into my energy budget. I like the fact that there is only one moving part in the compressor.
http://www.thermaldynamicssales.com/images/Engel%2520Compressor%2520C-Section.jpg

I looked at a few models of the Engle,
The Engle 15, 14 Quart
http://www.compactappliance.com/images/us/local/products/detail/MRFD015DA_dt.jpg
• Outside dimensions: 14.5"H x 11"W x 17"L
• Inside dimensions: 13.75"H x 7.5"W x 7.5"L
This would have fit best onboard, and the storage space would probably have been adequate for my needs. The issue with it (for me) is that is has a slightly higher advertised current use then the larger models (probably due to less insulation).
Then is was the 16q, or the 22q. They both have the same advertised current use… .7 to 2.5a
• Model: MT17FU1
• Fits 24 cans (12 Fl.oz) Dimensions: 14.2"h x 21.1"w x 12"d
http://www.compactappliance.com/images/us/local/products/detail/MT17FU1_dt.jpg
Then it was the 22q model, (model 27)
http://www.compactappliance.com/images/us/local/products/detail/MT27FU1_dt.jpg
Power Consumption: 0.6 - 2.3 Amps
Fits 30 cans (12 Fl.oz • Dimensions: 21"h x 12"w x 18.2"d
From there you go to the 34 and 43 quart models.
I like them for their capacity, but they would not fit on my boat without some modification.
Model: MT35FU1
Volume: 34 qt. / equivalent to 54 12oz. cans
• Outside dimensions: 16"H x 14 1/3"W x 25 1/2"L
• Inside dimensions: 15.4"H x 10.8"W x 12.4"L
0.7 Amps in refrigeration mode; 2.5 Amps in freezer mode
Weight: 46.3 pounds
Model: MT45FU1
Volume: 43 qt. / equivalent to 60 12oz. Cans
• Outside dimensions: 20"h x 14 1/3"w x 25 1/2"l
• Inside Dimensions: L 15.4" x W 10.8" x H 16.4"
0.7 Amps in refrigeration mode; 2.5 Amps in freezer mode
Weight: 52.9 pounds

I took the measurements out to my boat, and figured out that the model 27 was the right one for me.
I like the model 43, but the 25” length gets me. I would have to stow it lengthwise in my v-berth, or rebuild my interior to accommodate it. This would take up too much space, and the lid would not open more then ½ way.
The 18.5" Model 27 should sit at the aft end of my V-berth (on the port side) and the way the lid opens from the end should make it a perfect fit.

Looking around I found Compact appliance (the link Connie suggested) beat all others, and was actually cheaper when I checked out then their own advertised price! (It lists for $569, and sold for $534!)

I will post my impressions when it arrives.

[Hull376]

Gang,

I ripped out the icebox last year, and I bought the Engel MT-17, which fits sideways at the very front of the shelf which used to be the bottom of the icebox. I have the travel lock "thing" that engel sells to secure the fridge. There is just enough room to mount the slide lock and be able to slide this size refer and engage the slide lock. I didn't preserve the shelf where the top of the old icebox used to be in order to allow the top loading unit to swing up without hitting anything. These units shift from ac to dc current automatically, so I installed a new dc and ac outlet in the bulkhead. I can attest to the quiet and trouble free, excellent construction of these Engel units. I'm solar powered for the most part with 300 am hr battery bank, and I've never run out of power or drawn batteries below 50% on 4 day cruises running the electronics and this refer. I would have NEVER considered a refer until I heard about Engel and the low power draw. I have the thermostat set at 1.5 (goes up to 5) and I have to be careful because it starts freezing Dr Pepper cans at 2.0! These are not cheap, but then, you get what you pay for. I'll snap a pic and post it.

[joe]

Does anyone have a propane fridge or any experience with them??

[Hull376]

Attached are two shots of the Engel MT 17 that I promised. It sits in a travel lock on the shelf which used to be the bottom of the old icebox. The shelf was extended out 1 inch and the unit plugs into both an ac and a dc outlet that is located on the bulkhead behind the unit. It switches between ac and dc when the shorepower is unhooked. It draws minimal power in refridge mode--- lower than anything I've seen on the market (see posts above for technical details.)

[frank durant]

Nice lil units.I have the small one Jubilee...it just tucks into the 1/4 berth. IMO, these are THEE best,simplest and lowest draw units out there.Looks great sitting where you have it. Enjoy your 'cold ones' :)

[joe]

Hi all, I've been looking at those neat Engels and have decided on one for Elii Henry but have not yet determined placement. Would any of you who have them tell me of all the grilles on both sides and on the back, which intake air and which exhaust air??

[ebb]

These FREEZER coolers are perfect minimalist fridges for the Ariel. The two best things about these boxes is they freeze electronically - NO freon/cfc! The best second thing is that you can have icecubes at 90degrees ambient. That's kewl!

This coolers have been around for thirty years world wide. That's a track record. The internet has 100s of 'epedition' sites that mention the Engel coolers - usually the larger ones. They are made in Japan.

The draw range is .9 to 2.3A.
*
Solar panel compatible.
There is a fan to help cooling in confined spaces.
Reverse polarity protection.

The box is rectangular with the vents in the back where the lid is hinged. So the install has to keep this in mind. I can imagine an install where you'd want the lid to be lifted off rather than hinged - I don't know if this is an option.

The 24 beer Engel 17 has a big sister in the 30 beer Engel 27. Everything is the same except that the unit is 4" taller. 37#. Interior dimension of the 27 is 11.5"X8"X13.5". That is 3.5" taller that little sister and I think, in minimalist terms, that makes it twice as versatile. (Cost about $25 more.)

There is a "slide-tray" for the 17/27 which is a way of attaching the unit to the boat. I don't know what materials it made from nor how much height it will add. If you strapped the fridge instead, you have to undo the straps to open it. (Cost $70.)

A min/max recording digital thermometer can be had for $24. Be nice to have for understanding and programming this toy.
Extra thermal fuses go for $10.
"Thermal transit" bags - insulation blankets - are available for the 17/27. (Cost around $100.) Whether you have to lift the thing off to access the box I don't know. Maybe it has a zipper around the top? Seems a necessity. But it begs the question whether it is exactly a "transit" bag used to move the box between electric sources - or whether it could be modified for use when the unit needs to use its fan.

I hope to have one of these under the steps in Little Gull. But Frank's installation can easily be worked into a traditional galley arrangement and provide more ventilation for the Engel.

Need some more photos.
(There is a 30% tilt limitation to the working of the fridge. I don't know what happens at 31% tilt - does it shut down?? Will it automatically turn back on?? Anybody know??

Adding it all up it is way more than pocket change. But compared going thru the installation of a compresser style unit with built-in urethane insulation and all the carpentry and acrobatics involved for a 1/2 cube foot more at three times the draw on the battery.... There is NO comparison. IS THERE?:confused:
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________
[later edit]
*Craig in a later post in this thread (#17)
Gives his experience of the actual amps needed to run the 27 unit PER DAY.
This is where you really find out if having one of these goodies is realistic!!!!

[Hull376]

Joe,

There may be a small amount of mechanical air movement, but it seems that convection is at work as well. The air moves at a wisper out of the open grate on the top of the unit parallel to the hinged side of the top loading door. The side and back open grates don't have much air flow over them. However, I think the way this works and one reason for the low current draw is that the large open grates expose the condenser coils which then slowly moves heated air up and out of the unit via the top open grate. I looked in my unit to see if I could locate a fan--- it might be there, but if it is, its pretty low volume. There is no "fan" sound that I can hear over the already quiet operation of the compressor motor (which has only one moving part).

So however it works, there isn't much air volume movement, but I think it still needs some open area around the mechanical side with the grates to allow air movement to carry heat up and away from the coils.

One other neat thing, you can quickly remove it from the travel lock and take it on trips (camping anyone?), stowing it in the back of the van (or SUV). The travel lock adds about an inch and a half to the overall height of the installation, and I highly recommend for a rolling sailboat!

[joe]

I appreciate the info !! I have put my remodel on hold until cooler weather, but I am still working on the drawings and THINKK I have figured out where to put the fridge.
Joe

[c_amos]

The install of my Engle 27 is one the many projects I need to take pictures of and post... :rolleyes:

Sorry guys.

FWIW, I have mine mounted in the V-berth, on the port side just beyond the bulkhead. The lid opens well, and is easy to there.

I elected not to buy the slide mount, as it would have made the unit an inch or so taller, and I thought I might need the room for the lid to open. There is good clearence, and the mount would probably fit, but the handles allow you to strap it in pretty well.

I did mount a dedicated 12v outlet in the back of the bulkhead, using the Engle recommended 12ga wire.

I have used the unit for a few months now, and am very happy with it. My two T-105's don't even seem to know it is there. :D

[c_amos]

The Engle 27 is rated at 700 ma, but gives no mention of how much it runs.

My experience so far is that it seems to drink 10 to 12 amp hours a day.

This is of course with it in the V-berth, with adequite ventilation in temps from the mid 90's to 70's at night.

I think my single solar panel will keep up with it if I can find a scotty diode, the silicone diode is drinking most of the output to loss right now.. :(

[ebb]

Got mine!
Definitely a luxury item. But there will always be a few of those.
On TonyG's thread, who also has an Engel 35, mentioned that I ordered an extra set of lid hinges from headquarters in FL.
With the extra set reconfigured the hinges to allow the lid, after being tilted up just a small bit,
to slide off sideways. Either right or left, your choice.
This means if you have the fridge cinched in tight, and have allowed some squirrlie access from the top, you can reach in,
without having to lift the lid through its huge radius.

I also believe the 'transit slide lok', which is mostly plastic, allows good versatility in mounting the fridge at the cost of about 1" more height. No straps or bungee cords necessary.
Also got the insulating blanket which is tailored to allow air circulation for the fan. And slight fiddley access with a zipper.
Wonder how much it actually cuts down on run time?

Not there yet,
but if we can electrically feed this baby we can probably factor in an exterior fan to keep cooling air moving around the back of this little gem.:cool:

[c_amos]

Wow,

Just realized I had not updated this since 07.....

Over the intervening years I have been VERY pleased with my Engle 27. :)

One complaint (I have to struggle to find one) is that the temperature knob is very easy to turn... any setting above 1.5 gives frozen stuff... easily bruise the bottles of frosty beverage if one is less then careful. Real life use was sub 30ah a day in the Bahamas with some sunlight coming in the foredeck hatch.... towel placed over the lid helped with this.

No special treatment was afforded to the cooling fins on the back, it was pretty happy being just mounted to the port side of the V-berth all the way aft. I did make a small cut into the 'stock' shelf to allow the corner a place to rest with the fridge being tucked up against the bulkhead.

One really special thing about the Engle is that it is quiet.... I was on a delivery last week (cold) and the installed fridge would wake me up in the middle of the night it was so loud! The Engle is not like that.... now, I got them regular old hinges so no comment on the special ones... but never had any trouble with opening mine.

Sure is nice to drink something cold at the end of a hot day!

Good buy!

[ebb]

Craig, Engel doesn't seems to have any stocking distributors. So if we're looking for prices we essentially won't find any deals, everybody gets their stuff or has it shipped from Florida. When I called I got a lady who wasn't surprised at all with my hinge request. The price, no surprise, was steep.
I can see that knob getting knocked off, and maybe that nice catch on the lid, but I'm sure they have replacements there for everything.

QUIET!
Worth paying for. So glad to hear that. Maybe that's why these little fridges have been along on so many expeditions. Afterall, getting away is also getting to quiet places.

If I had a complaint, it's the weight of the Engel27.
40 plus pounds!

[epiphany]

Had a real nice fellow come through the marina on his way back from the Bahamas this past spring with an Island Packet 31. His forestay had parted; his roller snarler held things together enough that he could attach his inner forestay and make it to Georgetown. He contacted me to do the fix. It wound up that he needed to purchase not just a forestay, but also a new roller snarler - the OEM one on his IP was no longer in production, and messed up just enough that we could not re-use it - parts would have been the cost of a new model...

Long story short, about 10 days, over 25 hours of work and 3 trips up his mast later, I had him all set up and ready to cruise the rest of the way to upstate NY. When he asked me how much did he owe me, I handed him a printout from the 'net with the Engel distributors contact number and the info for the MT35 (http://www.engel-usa.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=vmj_genx.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=59) model, and said "Just get me this...". Saved him about 50% off the hourly rate, and made it easy for me. :)

After 10 months now, I'm as happy an Engel owner, as I ever was an Engel user. Two thumbs up! :D

[carl291]

commanderpete, 60 beers ?? in one cooler ?? on the Starboard side, wouldn't let an Ariel sit on her lines. It would work in the Commander with the large cockpit because you could balance the boat with some of the more attractive gender if they dressed rather scantily! Besides I've been told on long cruises you fish for staples.

[c_amos]

Had a real nice fellow come through the marina on his way back from the Bahamas this past spring with an Island Packet 31. His forestay had parted; his roller snarler held things together enough that he could attach his inner forestay and make it to Georgetown. He contacted me to do the fix. It wound up that he needed to purchase not just a forestay, but also a new roller snarler - the OEM one on his IP was no longer in production, and messed up just enough that we could not re-use it - parts would have been the cost of a new model...

Long story short, about 10 days, over 25 hours of work and 3 trips up his mast later, I had him all set up and ready to cruise the rest of the way to upstate NY. When he asked me how much did he owe me, I handed him a printout from the 'net with the Engel distributors contact number and the info for the MT35 (http://www.engel-usa.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=vmj_genx.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=59) model, and said "Just get me this...". Saved him about 50% off the hourly rate, and made it easy for me. :)

After 10 months now, I'm as happy an Engel owner, as I ever was an Engel user. Two thumbs up! :D

NOTE: For those who might wonder about this, I can attest that Kurt's propensity for the ingestion of frosty beverage necessitates the larger 35 model... I am frankly surprised he can get by with such a small unit. More good press for the Engel's rapid cooling prowess.

:)

[epiphany]

Now, I'm not denying that I like a frosty cold barley soda or a chilled few inches of fine rum just as much as the next man, BUT... :D

My reasons for the 35 over the 27 (or 45, for that matter) were that the 35:


Has the traditional Engel galvanized metal exterior (the plastic exteriors are new, and so, somewhat untested - tho' they'll prolly do just fine...)
Has the compressor with the same (lowest) energy usage as the 27 (.7-2.5 Amps/h), yet...
...has ~50% more interior room than the 27, for a footprint only 4" longer, and 2" wider, and...
...it has a non-tapered shape, maximizing refrigerated area for the space taken.
Can't I have something bigger or nicer than Craig? Just ONCE???? Gee...


Last, and most importantly to my mind, the REAL reason is that as an avid fisherman I know it is relatively rare to catch a pelagic fish which is exactly the size of one meal, without leftovers. Even a "peanut" mahi, when fileted out, will yield several pounds of meat. So I figure if I am gonna kill the buggers, at the least I oughta eat as much of them as possible. Having a little extra room in the fridge will allow me to store the extra meat safely until it gets all eaten up. :)

Look at the picture Carl posted. It's kind of hard to tell how thick he is, but that's likely a 35-40lb+ bull dolphin. You'll get 15 lbs + of tasty meat off of that fish, enough food for those two for a week of dinners. But not if you can't keep it cold! :)

And BTW, Ariels cruise at the perfect speed for trolling... ;D

[ebb]

Never thought I'd have 50% more volume envy! So Be It!

Anybody have the foolproof way to hard wire the fridge to the panel......or not?
Diagram? Gauges? Fuse or circuit breaker?
Tips? No electric smarts here.

Thanks.:confused:

[carl291]

Kurt, I had to go back and look... there is a fish in that picture!!!

[Tony G]

All this Engel talk has me wishing it was warm enough here to have to cool something down-and then drink it. Man, Kurt, I had to read your post several times. Somehow I read it that you were in the Bahamas already working and living my dream. I thought how the hexx did I miss that little piece of information?! Gottta hand it to ya for the alternative to cash on the barrel head. I would much rather barter for goods and services. As long as both parties are satisfied why not!

Ebb, I can see why you'd want to hard wird it just to remove a junction that is a potential corosion threat. But do you have other reasons for tying it into the system permanently? I haven't even thought of removing "the back panel" :O but I bet there are some readily accessable contacts that you could solder right onto. We have a simple glass fuse fuse block that will go "down stream" from the circuit breakers to protect the more sensative electronics with lower tollerances and in case the circuit breaker doesn't trip. Would something like that server your needs?

[ebb]

Howzitgoing Tony?

True it's one less connection.
Engel, I believe, also has available a 'harness' for doing it, so it therefor is an option.
And once it has found its place on the boat, that's where it will live. It is a relatively heavy unit.

But stacked in front of access to other parts of the boat, it will have to be moved at times.
So if somebody here says the fridge works just fine plugged into a cigaret lighter receptacle
then I would take that advice. Seems a bit too temporary or corrosion prone.

The Engel in litlgull will live under the c'way in front of where the engine ought to be -
which is where I have the batteries on a slide under the cockpit. The fridge will have to be removed for battery work.
So I can see the Engel hookup go directly to a panel which will be right there, inches away, under the entrance,
on top of the galley counter, but tucked underneath the bridge. Is there a better way?
Should it just be plugged in for 'convenience'?

Should dedicated monitoring, an amp gauge, or what gauge, be included in line?
Monitoring the draw would be a necessity, I think. Yes?
What would the diagram look like?:confused:

[c_amos]

Ebb,

Your thinking is spot on. I removed the crumbled remnant of my "stainless steel" lighter outlet, and have to either clean up the contacts on the Engle plug or cut it off.

I am leaning in the direction of cutting it off and installing a small terminal block (the former plug was in the 'cabinet' over the drawers on the port side).

Cigarette lighter plugs are indeed handy, but not ideal for long term use on boats (IMHO).

[ebb]

Hey Craig,
So when you do 'hard wire',
when the fridge has to be moved it will be unscrewed from terminals.

Which isn't so bad, actually good, but the cord remains long enough to allow the unit to be moved
to a temporary spot still attached. Cleaning, maintenance, whatever?

[c_amos]

This post doubled!!!!

Did you delete both of them?

[ebb]

Craig, Don't know what's going on.
It does occur to me that my blather is too stupid to be believed!!!!
The fridge cord is disconnected at the fridge.
So whatever system, cord length, terminal placement works for the individual.

It is a special female plug to the fridge so we are limited by that cord length,
and by what is available from Engel if we want an unspliced cord.

Thanks for the confirmation!

MAKING CONNECTIONS THAT WILL LAST
Using the original cord an attempt should be made to waterproof the crimped, soldered connectors using Liquid Lectric Tape.
And a product called JET-LUBE can be used as an anti-corrosion conductive interface at the junction block to keep the salt out.
I don't know that the Engel cord is tinned, I doubt it. So it always is a potential problem.

There is a tip sheet 'Making Connections That Will Last' in the Sept 2010 Practical Sailor by Mark Johnson (Delphys Marine) who talks about assuring connections.
"Jet Lube is a copper powder-loaded grease, that increases conductivity while displacing air or moisture in the interface."
Maybe this can be used on the built-in male plugs in the back of the Engel? And single use cigaret plugs, for that matter!

BATTERY CONNECTIONS
[I'll quote from Mark Johnson on his battery connections because his advise is extreme: (and I happen to have the mag open here!)
"On my Trojan L-14 house batteries, I crimp AND solder each cable as described above, followed by heavy adhesive-lined heat shrink.
Then I polish up the eye and lug with a Scotchbrite pad, followed by an application of Jet Lube.
After tightening the fittings, I use mineral spirits to wash off the excess J.L., leaving it only in the interface.
Then I apply five coats of Liquid Lectric tape (30 minutes between coats) to the eye, lug, up the wire a half-inch, and onto the battery top.
With my hydro caps on the batteries, all I have to do is check the water every few months, and I'm good for seven to 10 years!"
He uses a BlueSea battery fuse within 10" of the battery on both house and engine bats.] M.J. does not identify the Jet Lube product with a number.
This quote is from Practical Sailor Sept 2010 pg 5. And thanks. It seems like great advice!
also see [Proper Battery Connections - Cruisers & Sailing Forums. Mark Johnson post 14]


COPPER FILLED GREASE (petroleum oil, copper powder, bentonite)
The JetLube 12555 PURE copper filled petro goop I guess it's the SS-30, available at Sears, toolfetch, Graingers. 1/4lb brush-top can, $9 - $15.
This is a guess on my part as Practical Sailor does not identify the product either.
JetLube is a US/Canadian corporation with 150 anti-seize-type products that have an MSDS on their website. SS-30 is a micronized ('homogenized') copper filled grease - with NO graphite, lead, mercury, cyanide. Non-hazardous copper only. SS stands for stainless steel. "..formulated for stainless steel fittings." Just how that translates from oil well drilling to an Ariel, I don't know.
From the SS-30 MSDS "Not for use on oxygen lines. NOT INTENDED FOR USE WITH ALUMINUM WHERE GALVANIC CORROSION COULD BE A SIGNIFICANT ISSUE."
Whether a conductive paste can be used between s.s. against s.s. on salt water boats I don't know. Where? [perhaps when putting together a lightning grounding system] Maybe bolting on stancheons thru-deck, s.s. to s.s. Who's going to try it?
The paste is conductive therefor it would be limited to the electrical use Mark Johnson suggests. Watch out for making shorts.
If anybody can confirm that JetLube SS-30 is what is being used in marine electric installations, it will be very helpful.

It certainly is interesting to consider that when two pieces of stainless have to be assembled together - that instead of trying to isolate them with a
dilectric grease, TefGel, Lanocote, rubber, gasket, whatever to prevent corrosion - use a conductive grease instead. The primary use for any grease is to keep water and oxygen out of the interface. Using SS-30 as bedding compound might aid in creating an electric potential (is that correct?) that might help neutralize the interface by making the surfaces electrically attractive. ? Really?:confused: But this grease says somebody is doing it!

[c_amos]

Ebb,

Just posted a 'rant on 12v plugs' here on Sailfar. (http://sailfar.net/forum/index.php/topic,3528.msg38681.html#new)..

None the much too happy with our options. Thinking a terminal block may indeed be the way to go on this one.

[ebb]

Craig, notice you are tagged By LooseMoose blue lined to Anderson Power pole connectors.
It's too fast for me to follow, but he does not provide a SOURCE - if they are viable.

There would have to be some kind of pressure or O-ring seal to keep the salt out of the connector. Maybe an adhesive lined shrinkwrap OVER it.

If you find the answer, PLEASE post here TOO, OK?
Your presentation of plug and connector soggy promises is IMPRESSIVE.

I can imagine a push in and 1/4 turn water proof lighter-type connector (no longer a lighter!)
that would also have its inner parts (the forgotton other side) water-resistant as well. Three times normal price marine.

But in the mean time, you gotta admit the copper conductive grease looks good! ? ? ?