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Lucky Dawg
05-18-2012, 07:44 PM
So... going through the Laz bulkhead... how do you do so in a watertight way? I can't find this made up piece of hardware. Someone here has put bilge tubing through there. Perko and "fastfittings.com" don't have it currently. I am thinking Chance would know if anyone would. My mock-up of a piece of hardware is below. (It could be two pieces of hardware that hook together.) Bilge tubing attaches to both ends. Please share your ideas. I may well be looking at this all wrong.

8520

ebb
05-19-2012, 07:57 AM
I'm not Chance, that's fer sure.:D
But to maybe get on the path to find what you're looking for, go to
plumbingsupply.com and type in PVC & ABS Bulkhead Fittings.
That fitting on the top end is a socket into which you can glue in a threaded connector.

Hose barb is another thing, but can be found.*
Look on McMastercarr.com, pg 115, for threaded to threaded connectors. ('thru wall connectors')
If using hose, maybe tape or dull the threads, and slip on nearest size tube and clamp.

Might also get creative with plastic unions or couplings.

*Attwood has a 3/4"to3/4" barbed 'Double-ended Thru-hull connector'. About 5" long!
Seachoice has the same live-well fitting. List price about $10. WorstMarine has them for $16.

Lucky Dawg
05-21-2012, 06:50 AM
No offense Ebb!! Chance always seems to have some masterful looking through-hull put together...

Thanks for the links. At plumbingsupply.com, I found stainless pieces that would work:
Hose -> regular nipple -> coupling -> Close nipple -> washer [ bulkhead ] washer <- coupling <- regular nipple<- hose...
...with a long-enough regular nipple to accommodate hose clamp.

With that being said, what material would be best? LD is a fresh water boat, but conceivably some day might not be. Permanently corrosion resistant would be good. PVC seems temporary and/or less durable than something like brass or stainless

Thanks!

8525
8523
8524

ebb
05-21-2012, 07:48 AM
Hey Kyle,
PVC, the scourge of the environment, lasts they estimate, for 10,000 years.
Not as long as stainless.

Could think that if the plastic is protected against ozone & UV it would last long enough.
Schedule 40 stainless probably won't crack if whacked by an anchor or something.
If you could find bronze in those kinds of fittings, I believe epoxy sticks better to bronze than s.s.
- if you are going to build the fittings you show into the bulkhead.
They have to be 316 stainless not to rust - but in fresh water 18-8/304 is fine.

I'm predjudiced against plumbing taper threads because threads are left exposed and being cut
like they are into the metal could be seen as invitation to corrosion in salt. Bronze I believe
is more inert in a corrosive environment. Groco, Buck Algonquin, those guys probably have
plumbing in bronze. Pool installers will have bronze taper fittings.

BUT straight threads might also make it easy to find flange nuts to more easily mount your thru-bulkheads.

Assuming you are taking liquid thru the wall.....you are plumbing the wall with those couplings & nipples.
If you are taking tube or hose thru the wall you can grommet the hole and not bother with piping.


Where's Chance when we need him?:D

Lucky Dawg
05-21-2012, 09:31 AM
If you are taking tube or hose thru the wall you can grommet the hole and not bother with piping.

That is what I'm doing. Please explain. Like I said, I may be going about this wrong.

ebb
05-21-2012, 10:36 AM
Kyle, don't know what kind of tubing?
Bilge? My Shurflo bilge pumps took 1 1/8" hose. White vinyl with a nearly smooth pvc helix:
Shields Vac XHD Series 148. A Trident sanitation hose product.
You could drill a 1 3/8" hole (your hose OD) thru the plywood bulkhead, round the edges very well, juice the opening with
liquid epoxy, let set and sand smooth.
Imco that would work and would be relatively water 'resistant' because of the tight fit.

If it was gas hose, maybe there is a ready made rubber grommet for it to go thru a wall.
Off the top, a circle of butyl sheet (1/4"? McMasterCarr) tacked over an oversized hole in the 'bulkhead'
- with a hole in the center of the rubber disk, a tight fit for the fuel hose - would cradle the hose nicely.
Of course you'd have to take the fitting off one end of the fuel hose to push it thru.


www.mcmaster.com has a page* in their online catalog for large selection (with dimensions) of Push-in Rubber Grommets, pg 3777.
Knowing hose diameter, find grommet with that D. Find grommet with inner body diameter that fits the thickness of your bulkhead (1/2"?).
Then drill that size hole and pop the grommet in along with the hose! Just scanned that source, doesn't look like anything there will do the job.
So you might have to make your own hose cozy for gas line.

For butyl, or even better, EPDM 1/4" sheet, it's available by the sq ft - also from McMasterCarr, pg 3539.
[To drill the size hose hole needed, sandwich the rubber between plywood,
bind it tight, and drill thru with a sharp bit on the drill press.
Haven't done it, but using a new holesaw or forstner bit, this sandwich idea might also work for larger hose holes.]
This rubber sheet is easily cut with a utility knife, thinner stuff with Friskars.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________
*to instantly get to a page, type the page number into the 'FIND' box on the top upper left of the website homepage.
When you get to the catalog page, the page number is in a small box at the top. On either side of the box are small black arrows.....
to 'turn the page' left click a directional arrow. If you're going exploring, better write the page number down to get back. There are 3888 pgs!!!

Chance
06-24-2012, 03:23 PM
Kyle,

Good Evening. Okay, here's an option that will result in a clean, neat installation, that will provide a watertight bulkhead penetration. It involves only three bronze fittings, some pipe sealant and a couple of nice fillets.

Obtain (1) one bronze pipe coupler
Obtain (2) two bronze pipe-to-hose fittings.

Install the coupler in the bulkhead by milling a hole to receive the coupler. Center the coupler and epoxy in place using nice fillets. Then insert a pipe to hose fitting into each end and there you have it. The nice thing about this option is pipe-to-hose fittings have NPT threads, just like the coupler. Also, pipe-to-hose fittings can be either straight, 90 degree or 45 degree. This may assist in where (the direction) you'll be routing the hose.

Bronze couplers are readily available from Hamilton Marine and Jamestown Distributors. Groco Marine produces an assortment of bronze pipe-to-hose fittings that are distributed by various suppliers.

Hope this helps.

Chance
06-24-2012, 03:26 PM
Also,
For this application, my recommendation is to only use "BRONZE", which can be done.