View Full Version : Seeking Advice on Stepping the Mast
BrianKay
05-19-2008, 09:33 PM
I'm finally making the plunge and buying an Ariel this week:), and I'll be transporting it by truck to a small port near where I live in San Luis Obispo, CA. I'm hoping to put it in the water directly with a small hoist, rather than spending unnecessary time in the boatyard. So, I'm looking for any general advice about quickly stepping the mast: will I need a crane, or will a few friends do? Any idea how long the basic operation should take? The hoist area is fairly busy, so I shouldn't plan to do much work there, and I'm wondering about the possibility of quickly stepping the mast at the dock, then doing the fine-tuning of the rigging elsewhere. Would that make any sense? Obviously, I'm new to this process, so thanks for any quick thoughts.
Glad to be joining the Ariel family!
-Brian Kay
Searching on "stepping mast" turns up a number of threads to review, including a couple with on point discussions.
Brian,
Congratulations and welcome!
A lot depends on how your new boat is set up for stepping the mast. Some folks have a hinged tabernacle and others have the original step which takes a bit more help and planning.
In any event, the mast is heavy and unwieldy, so use plenty of caution and don't rush or let them rush you while doing it. Your search will turn up plenty of reading, tips and methods on how others have done it. Here are a couple. :)
Dropping the mast by hand (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=935)
In Step with unstepping (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=843) (Good link to a P26 owner's pictures and method at the end.)
Stepping the mast (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=124)
Berkley Marina (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=1022)
Commander 105 is Launched (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=237)
Mast Base Replacement (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=1600)
Mast Step Discussions (http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=204)
Good luck and let us know how things turn out.
PS. We like pictures around here, so feel free to post at will... ;)
Thanks Mike.
BrianKay will find great tips here on this Board.
There are a number of ways to lower and raise the mast. Whether the method below here can be done with the boat in the water is something I'd like to hear comment on. The hinge method where in our case the mast is lowered forward with the boom as the gin pole and the upper shrouds used to control sway, is done by skippers on the water. The mast is under basic control by being still attached to the boat until it is horizontal. The A-frame dead lift is risky because you will have an UNattached loose mast as soon as you lift it out of the step. If you can't lower it more or less on the center line of the boat you got trouble.
If the mast has no hinge then you have to be able to dead lift the mast out of the step. The only way to do this is with a stationary A-frame that tackles the mast upward. And later put it back. So, if you will be using the same rigging mark the turnbuckles where you have them tightened usually - and label them too.
If the spreaders are at a balance point as Bill sez* then that seems to be fortunate because then you won't be fighting it to get it into the level position. You'll be pushing and tilting about 50 pounds of stick around instead of a hundred plus the gear hanging off of it. The problem maybe how to control the mast when you don't know how it will hang when it's first freed from the mast base. It will want to hang more or less horizontal.... No surprises. Need at least a line from the the masthead and another line near the bottom. With someone on the block and tackle, lifting and lowering - that's at least three humans. The lines from the top and bottom of the spar are backups to help control the swing of the mast if it gets away from the person handling the bottom until it is on the horses.
The A-frame legs might be tied to the aft chain plates in such a way that the legs can adjust the angle a little but not lift or slide. With fore and aft lines the A-frame block and tackle can be positioned vertically close to the mast above the spreaders connected to a fairly tight bridle made of nylon strapping so that the pull up is as vertical as possible.
The fore and aft A-frame guy lines might get in the way of positioning the mast as it becomes horizontal - some forethought is needed here. Maybe will have to penduluim swing the dangling mast around one of the guys - which will put some strain on the A-frame. Same dance in reverse when raising. Some record might be kept of how everything is rigged. If you use the aft-lowers chainplates to secure the A-frame then it will be leaning forward and the guy going aft will be holding all the weight of the jig. When the mast is turned from vertical to horizontal there will be loads on the A-fame apex and block and tackle. Obviously the mast must go in one direction only. When it is loose the bottom of the mast moves AFT between the A-frame legs. The top will swing downwards over the bow. There will be side loads on the frame, so that has to be watched.
Your 2X4s should be straightgrain with no run outs. Can't afford KD but small knot fir is tougher anyway, eyeball straight stuff. If it still has the birds in it it'll be pretty heavy. Longer lengths in the yard might have dried some.
The way the strapping is wrapped around the spreaders will turn the mast or keep it in a certain position while moving it. The bridle should not be able to slip up or down the mast.
I'd want to get it to be hanging with the spreaders port and starboard and on the correct side if possible.
Taking the mast down begins by attaching the parts and holding the mast in a neutral position with the A-frame and block and tackle.
The forward shrouds are loosened. Then the uppers. The backstay is loosened, then unhooked. Then the forestay/furler. While the shrouds and stays are being released tension is increased on the A-frame tackle to read any movement of the mast in the step. Check if the A-frame is jigged firmly in position, lines tied securely. See if internal wires are free. See if nothing is being pulled up that shouldn't be, including the cabin top. If it lifts off....That's it. If it doesn't check for nefarious fasteners or corrosion........
Lift it off the step. It probably will need help: banging it a bit, try hauling up on the cleats, might even make a 2X4 lever with scrap - pry up on the bottom of a cleat. Keep control of the bottom of the mast. Walk it aft to the temporary horse in the back of the cockpit. Did you close the companionway? Once the heel is over the horse start lowering. Keep the furler from kinking and rigging from marking the cabin and decks. Lower into the temporary horse built into and higher than the pulpit.
2X4 fir is often said to be the ideal A-frame material. My estimate is that we're looking at 20 footers! that to get the tackle and the hanging strap under the apex. 2X4? that's pretty skinny - but any fatter and the jig will be too heavy. No doubt the 3 1/2" width of the 2X4 will be 90 degrees to the rail. That will help during the initial lift which may generate large loads until the base is free of the step. The frame itself has to be raised into its vertical postion, which it essentially keeps throughout the drama.
There must be a number of tips on construction, connectors, guy eyes, line, and rigging the tackle, etc. What's a good way to get the lifting bridle in place on the standing mast. House ladder??? No bosun's chair.
What's missing?
Think I talked myself into it. Or the reverse. Now I have to figure out how to get the mast back on my boat with the boat on the hard. And the cabin top about 12 feet off the ground!
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* The spreaders are 14' from the bottom of the mast. From there it is 16'6" to the top of the mast crane fitting. Hanging from the spreader point the noose or strap has about a foot to the theoretical balance point - not taking into account the weight and drag of the rigging still attached. The mast may want to tip down once freed from the step. Watch it. Have a line dangling from a halyard cleat on the mast.
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Well that's how this Ariel owner might approach it.
What would be really cool is for someone to VIDEO their process,
or the comedy, as the case may be. Visuals do it every time for me.
If it was youtoob worthy (with a nice sound track) it would be a great service to all mankind.
Certainly to a whole bunch of Pearson owners from this period.
Adding to that block of words above:
The normal way of attaching the top of the legs together is to connect the 2X4s face to face with a gate hinge. That would mean the wide sides of the 2X4 would face port and starboard and rest against the toerail. The bottoms would fit against the toerail better but the connection to the chainplates coming athwartships out of the deck might be more difficult. I guess you could drill holes in the 2X4 and tie the legs to the plate. Can't have any slop, don't want anything to shift when you got loads on the rig. UP TOP, getting a bolt through the hinged V for a rope or shackle next has to be done. Not hard really - the gate hinge you chose might be in the way though.....
And a hinge attached with mere screws up there would be stressful.
Suggested in the post above is to turn the 2X4s so the narrow sides are port and starboard.
That would allow the top to be simply bolted together face to face. With a spacer between the pieces you could have a carbinger or a rope grommet on the bolt making it easy to connect the block and tackle. Or might X the top, making a V to loop line or a rope grommet over. I would be happier with the less bendy legs in this position. The legs might be easier to attach to the chainplates, which I would attempt to do with line through holes. Line, rather than bolts, would allow flex. Some carpentry would be needed to get the 2X4 bottoms to sit well and also use the toerail as a brace.
I don't think a noose is adequate for lifting. There should be definite wrap around the mast and spreaders to insure the mast never shifts as it is lifted or when it swings horizontal as it is lowered. I just think tube or flat strapping is better than rope for this.
20 foot legs are a bit much for some. You can get by if you have a pickup with a rack. Easier would be 12 foot pieces allowing a generous two foot over lap for bolting the required lengths together. There are other ways.
TO GET THE ACTUAL HEIGHT AND LENGTH OF LEGS:
I would mock up the propsed A-frame on the ground first making sure the apex of the A-frame is high enough for the strap/wrap and the throw needed to lift the mast with the block and tackle. Rope stretches so a good allowance is needed.
Rigging a cockpit winch to do the lifting would be most cool. It would require a single block only in the apex. Any proposals?
That would make for shorter legs too.
Along with the control lines from the masthead and bottom, it would be wise to have a another line down from the strapping point, just in case you need to control the spar from this point. Three control lines.
YouTube video: (These are really excellent! Looks like there may be others out there too...)
Stepping Mast on a Catalina 25 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r33VCObNroY&NR=1)
Stepping the mast on Catalina 25 (Part 2) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsLxujYRsMQ&feature=related)
GOB Article:
No fear mast stepping (http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/maststepping.asp)
Cape Dory Forum:
Mast Stepping sequence for CD 25D (http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=22837)
unstepping a CD25D mast (http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?p=114095)
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"The hinge method where in our case the mast is lowered forward with the boom as the gin pole and the upper shrouds used to control sway, is done by skippers on the water." NOTE to echo Ebb's above comment - Ariel's with hinged steps would need to lower the mast forward...
The only sailboats that lower forward are those like ours that have a 'dog-house'
on top of the cabin.
The Ariel mast cannot be hinged backwards because it is stepped lower than the doghouse. Don't know what these terms are these days. You could set it up with a custom tall tabernacle to lower over the cockpit like the Catalina 25 guy with the great music.
Many Ariels will be upgraded with sea-hoods and dodgers with take even more height away from a regular hinge - so it is more natural to have the mast go forward on these boats.
Something to shoot for when upgrading:
The challenge for lowering with a hinge or tabernacle is to be able to do it SINGLEHANDED.
Bruce Bingham in THE SAILOR'S SKETCHBOOK (International Marine 1983) has the best drawings and the best setup illustrated for this FORWARD LOWERING AND RAISING singlehand setup. It uses no other gear than what you carry while sailing. (When lowering/raising you need a boom bridle to immobilize the sway of the boom.)
There is a lot of other great stuff for projects in this book. Every Ariel owner should own it. The guy draws beautifully, it's a great artbook, you could own it for that alone. But you NEED it to set up your boat permanently for "masting."
It is the only credible ILLUSTRATED source for this method, I've seen anywhere. We couldn't get luckier!
There is limited info on the net for forward lowering - but many tips and methods can be brought over from the more usual to be used for this alternate way of doing it.
For the one down/one time up method:
Not even the stationary A-frame method is done well enough for me from what I've garnered on the net.
If anybody is doing it here, have someone make a video for us.
Everybody should be able to do it. At least have the information on how to do it specific to this generation of boats from the '60s.
The waters are rising....
And as I've said before:
nobody has walked the talk on the singlehanded rig for an Ariel on this Board
so far as I know.
Be the FIRST!:D
Tim D.
05-22-2008, 12:13 PM
Bruce Bingham in THE SAILOR'S SKETCHBOOK (International Marine 1983) has the best drawings and the best setup illustrated for this FORWARD LOWERING AND RAISING singlehand setup. It uses no other gear than what you carry while sailing.
There is a lot of other great stuff for projects in this book. Every Ariel owner should own it. The guy draws beautifully, it's a great artbook, you could own it for that alone. But you NEED it to set up your boat permanently for "masting."
I just ordered a used copy through Amazon, a new one was $225 :eek:
Hey Tim, I see what you mean!
I didn't come up with ANY for sale.
I'd be happy to copy out the 5 pages on the subject
for anybody who wants them.
Can't imagine why this book would be out of print,
maybe International Marine (Seven Seas?) has them out of their catalog???
NOPE! Some jerk made the wrong decision again.
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One of youse computer geniuses could figure out how to copy those pages to this Forum. Right?
I'd be most happy to lend my copy for the process.
Sheesh! After Ebb's suggestion above, I went to Amazon and put the book in my "Wish List". There were a couple for $25 or so, and a couple more for $30ish.
I just checked, and it looks as though Ebb's mention has caused a run on the used copies of this book! :mad:
Tim D.
05-22-2008, 02:09 PM
Sheesh! After Ebb's suggestion above, I went to Amazon and put the book in my "Wish List". There were a couple for $25 or so, and a couple more for $30ish.
I just checked, and it looks as though Ebb's mention has caused a run on the used copies of this book! :mad:
Wow the power of the net. There were 9 used copies when I ordered mine!
sailorcave
05-27-2008, 10:04 AM
Here is another link to a mast dropping/stepping site (Alberg 30):
http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/SparsSailsRigging/UnsteppingMast/index.html
carl291
05-27-2008, 10:10 PM
On Ariel #259 I just recently acquired there are many half done projects ( half done screw-ups is probaly a better term) One of them is the mast, the PO cut off one foot off the base of the mast and had begun to fashion a hinge of some sort to step the mast. The gentleman I bought it from said his plan was to trailer sail the boat exclusively. I couldn't figure out the cutting of the mast till reading this thread evidently his plan was to step the mast rearward instead of forward and the foot high hinge was to clear the main cabin. I assume also he was going to step the mast with the winch on the trailer. Now I'll have to get the mast welded back together, tig method by a reputable welder.
WOW!
Welding is frowned on. But it might be the only way.
It is not the best way.
I would certainly interview the welder/welding business to see if they understand the concerns you might have of welded aluminum in the marine environment, ETC. Welding can change the alloy causing corrosion danger.
I'd be looking into tabernacle designs. One foot ain't all that much. One foot wouldn't get you over a hard dodger, for instance. or maybe even the seahood you haven't made yet if you were lowering aft.
Of course I believe forward lowering is the way, for all the reasons in this thread above.
You still could lower forward with a too-tall tabernacle, why not?
However, there is the weight, the fabrication expense, time involved.
Compac Suncats have a folding mast design. Seems like a nifty idea. Of course, it's a smaller boat/mast, but if it's done right and safe on our boats, it sure seems like it'd make the stepping/unstepping a cakewalk. Maybe alumni-Frank will pipe in on that design. That was one of the many boats he used to own.
Com-Pac Suncat site (http://www.compacsuncat.com/)
http://www.quietboating.com/SunCat_Rig.jpg
http://www.compacsuncat.com/images/suncat-mast-hinge.jpg
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