looking for a set of large Portlights!

[YARIOLO]

Hello! members this is my first post. I recently got my fathers boat (Pearson Ariel #16) because he past away last year. I start a restoration project whith it. Now I start sanding the complete hull and removed all the hardware completely because I'm gonna paint it all. But that is no problem my problem is that when I take out the large Portlights two of them broke in different areas and I'm looking for a replacement or a replica. The problem is that I live in Puerto Rico and is hard to find that kind of parts around here. Please if some body have any information let me know about it! My e-mail is rolanrivera_pr@hotmail.com Thanks again Guy's............:)

[Bill]

For the large portlite frames, see the thread "Original Pearson Hardware:"

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...ead.php?t=1269

[YARIOLO]

Bill if you know, that price is for the complete set of large frames?:confused: Thanks!...

[Bill]

The price is per individual set. Multiply by four. :eek: But, they are bronze, not aluminum and should last forever.

We had a source of plastic frames (Go Windows) and the manual describes how they are installed. The company, however, went out of business and we have yet to find a another firm willing or able to produce the the large frames in plastic.

[bill@ariel231]

Bill

you've got a bargain at $220 each.. I spent a bit more for the set I had done in Bristol...http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=1227

cheers,
bill@ariel231
:)

[commanderpete]

Nice

It seems like Pearson used the same frames on the Triton.

If you don't want to get new frames, you might ask around on some of the Triton websites. Somebody may have some.

[bill@ariel231]

If you have an unbroken left and right frame, a local foundry near you maybe able to use them as a pattern for new frames in aluminum or bronze. If you work directly with the foundry and are willing to sand and polish the rough castings, the cost could be much less than quoted above. The resulting part will be 2 to 3% smaller than original but that's not a big issue.

some foundries in New England will do this sort of work (Mystic Foundry), no doubt there is a shop near you... a foundry that does small lots such as sculptures should be able to get you a price.

good luck,
bill

[YARIOLO]

UFFFFF! $220.00 FOR EACH FRAME IS A HELL LOT OF MONEY!:eek: BUT I WILL HAVE TO SEARCH FOR A FEW ALTERNATIVE BEFORE I MAKE A DECITION. I'M GONE A DO A VISIT TO A LOCAL MACHINESHOP TO SEE IF THEY WELD MY FRAMES. THANK'S FOR THE HELP GUY'S IF SOME ONE HAVE MORE INFORMATION PLEASE LET ME KNOW.....

[Bill]

YARIOLO, suggest you spend some time searching the board. A lot of your questions (current and future) will be answered. As I recall, several members have discussed the frame issue. Ebb, I believe, even described having his aluminum frames cleaned, coated and maybe even welded. Try searching first on "window frames" you'll get a bunch of threads to review :) Might make your discussion with the local machine shop more productive. ;)

[ebb]

Yes, your aluminum frames can be resurrected if they are not too badly corroded. If time is money, there is considerabe effort in this too. Very often it seems the tiny screws that clamp the pair together have broken off because of age and corrosion. When you take them apart you'll do it too! 338's frames had extra DFO holes drilled in them next to where screws had broken.

Holes and corrosion were filled with Lab Metal from Caswell - $. And then professionally powdercoated - $$$. Depending on the plans you have for the boat and whether you are restoring or renovating you still have aluminum frames. I choose to drill out the screw holes for slightly larger thru-bolts. That means another system of fastening - $.

I certainly had an issue with the window holes and cabin liner in the cabin sides and what I considered an upgrade that had to be done there - time & $$$. This may something you have to consider.

It may turn out that it's better to upgrade with bronze. Definitely increases the value of your boat. You have the two styles to choose from: billariel231's heavier pattern or the repro. I would go with bill's. (Bristol Bronze)
And you can probably get either in stages of finish to save $$. Unless you are particularly handy I know I would go with already paired (inside and outside) frames that have the screws threaded ready for install. Don't forget the laminated glass - $$$$, or the lexan - $$.

I would not go offshore or coastal with the original windows. In 338 the frames are larger than the holes by a mere 1/4" all round. The factory installation made them impossible to keep the water out! Imco they are vunerable to being broken out by heavy water. It has been said that seas rising from the leeward side when heeled cause the damage - and because you're closer to the water you can flood the cabin thru a blown window. The cabin sides depend almost entirely on the frames and the glass for stiffness. That's a good reason to go with bronze.

Awhile back in discussions here the idea of thru-bolting lexan around the holes outside in the modern style came up. While this seems a bit cheesey, imco it is by far the strongest way to go. Not very stylish perhaps but very practical. The plastic can be replaced relatively easy. Tho there could be an issue with waterproofing. But getting the traditional windows waterproof is also an issue and taking them apart and recaulked more difficult. The traditional installation has only the clamping action of the frame holding them in place (they 'float' in the hole) - while the cheesey method you would bolt the plastic through the cabin sides.

I would definitely go with tinted glass with bronze frames. Extremely choice (snif).
Bronze would add to the value of the boat and last for centuries. The $$$$$$$ are definitely worth every $.:cool: