looking for photos of Treadmaster on an Ariel

[S.Allen]

I have done a search with no success Does anyone have any photos of an Ariel deck that has had Treadmaster applied?

I am trying to decide what to do about non-skid on Ariel # 120 and am considering Treadmaster.

Thanks,

Scott

[ebb]

Sorry no photo,
but here are some comments.

Run the diamond pattern fore and aft. Diamonds longways.
Lay out your grid starting at the centerline of the foredeck.

Even tho you will have strange diamond profiles along the toerail it will look more professional. Then as the side decks begin the diamond pattern can be oriented to the toerail - probably won't be noticable - and you'll have less strange slices of the raised diamonds. Also more economical use of expensive material.

But I don't think you could be successful laying the whole job out with the diamonds oriented to the rail, because the rail keeps turning in as it goes to the bow. And I think the eye would not like to see the diamond pattern meeting in the center aisle of the foredeck at a crazy angle. But that's your call.

Complaints are that it will lift on the corners/edges after a few years.
The stuff is impossible to keep clean.
The diamond pattern is very agressive on bare feet, knees and bottoms.
People complain about stubbing toes, because of its thickness. Which also may lead to the edges getting loose.
(collected off forums.)
Treadmaster does get the highest comparison rating for no skid. (BoatUS test)

I see there is a smooth slightly thinner version now available that looks more like normal deck antiskid. Certainly would be a breeze to layout. And probably easier to cut around stanchion bases and track if you aren't removing them. Or easier to mount those fixtures right on top without cutting waterways around them.

Personally, Treadmaster (Diamond) looks like Treadmaster and will look like Treadmaster on your deck. I feel the same about Cetol, which looks like Cetol on your wood. To me its like wearing a T-shirt with Haynes silkscreened on your chest.

Advertising about Treadmaster avoids talking about UV degradation, fading, and the corner/edge adhesion problem. Find Sue & Larry's "Installing Treadmaster Nonskid" on google.

Hope some of this is helpful. :D

Let's see some pics of your deck when you're done!! :cool:

[S.Allen]

Ebb,

Excellent reply, thanks for the input on this.

Scott

[mbd]

Someone brought this up on the Classic Plastic forum: http://www.pachena.com/index.html

Could be worth investigating.

[ebb]

Yeah Mike,
If Scott decides to go that route Pachena looks very interesting. The tints are right-on, I think. The application: 'spread it out as you would a layer of yogurt with our goopy-loopy roller' probably makes more sense with a kiwi accent. Is gonna take some practice. My choice for a roll-on was Sanitred (www.sanitred.com). If you go to their site, scroll to marine coatings, they have a sailboat of our vintage with their product on the deck. You can see how the guy laid out the water-ways. I got a sample pack but haven't got around to trying it. I would suggest that that is what to do: get a sample (it'll cost you.) Application is the key. You have to be happy with the method.

Sanitred is a broadcast-rubber-granules method. There are a number of rubber coatings available in the marketplace. Sanitred is a polyurethane hybrid that makes some incredible claims for the product. (It'll NEVER harden!) I wanted a 'soft' antiskid. It requires an activator (like a catalyst) and proper ambient temperature when you start, which means to me you have a time limiting constraint when applying. When you are doing a deck for the first time, it's a bugger if you have to hurry! Sanitred's first coat is glossy like paint. I wanted to seal the whole deck on 338, and liked the idea of shiney waterways. The first rubber coat would cover the original waterways. I would then lay out my anti-skid pattern and apply that coat, and then one more to lock in and smooth the anti-skid.
It's definitely more complicated than glueing on Treadmaster. (Is blue tape going to pull up the fresh rubber coating. Is it going to stick and make a line. Can you apply the different layers (and bloody granules) to a reasonable schedule? Etc.)

There are innumerable synthetic 'rubber' coatings. It's impossible to know anymore which one is best. A good clue is whether the producer has the Navy as a client. They'll also have the highest prices. I just naturally go for a polyurethane over an acrylic latex, but both are unrecognisable from what we had a few years ago. New season, new ball game. :rolleyes:

As Sue and Larry suggest: Putting on a new antiskid deck is a larger project than you think it is! One of the application tips on the Kiwi site is to pull the tape while the coating is still wet so that the thick material will lay down and round over on its edges. Good tip! But have you ever pulled wet tape? It's impossible in my experience! But....

[mbd]

I must say, I'm not sure I care for the Sanitred "look". A little too "industrial" I guess. It seems kind of like - well, rubber. Here's the
Sanitred Marine Page (http://www.sanitred.com/waterproofing/boat-marine_coating__repair/boat-marine_coating__repair.html). I do like the idea and always wondered about the "particle" approach and how to make sure they were evenly distributed when painted on, etc.

Here's the pic from Sanitred's Marine page. Nice boat. What is it, an Alberg 22?

Now I should really get to work... :rolleyes:

[bill@ariel231]

from the portlight pattern & the color scheme.. looks like a Cape Dory 22 or a 22D (same mould).

[ebb]

Eagle eye bill,
Early morning latte muckabout confirms that it is an Alberg 22.
Didn't go deep but the D may indicate Diesel (rather than OB?).
175 were built from 1981 on. They have a two foot shorter waterline than the Ariel which makes them a true pocket cruiser. Perfectly proportioned little boat wouldn't you say??

"Color scheme" is interesting. How do you mean?
You'd most likely find lighter colored decks on the west coast and on out into the tropics.

There's one for sale on YachtWorld with gallery, so you can take a peek inside.

[bill@ariel231]

Not so much an eagle eye, just used to seeing them at every mooring in the Tiverton Basin. My in-laws had a CD33 in the 80's and there were/are lot of Cape Dorys on Narragansett Bay. The standard color scheme for Cape Dory (post 1979 or so) was a off-white hull, brown boot and cove stripes, brown bottom paint and a light brown deck. All of the bronze fittings were by Spartan Marine.