Bending Wood - how?

[Stephan]

So i got those two replacement grab rails (they were missing from my cabin roof when i got the boat). Of course they are straight, but the cabinroof is curved. So, how do I bend them with the required radius? Maybe steam them? But I've heard that teak is not easy to bend at all...
Has anybody bent wood in a steambox or something? I also need to replace the board on top of the companionway hatch - it's missing, too, and everytime I lean on the hatch I'm worried that's it's going to give. This one would also be nice to bend to shape, even though I could also maybe make it out of many thin strips and glue it together...

[Mike Goodwin]

Teak does bend even if dry.
The rails go fore & aft and there is hardly any curve to deal with.
Start at one end fasten and move to the other , it will bend to shape .
I have replaced all the wood on Ariels or Ariel Like boats and have not had to steam any.

[Stephan]

Mike,

I have a Commander - maybe the curve of the cabin roof is more pronounced there than on the Ariel. I think the total distance to bend is around two inches, maybe a little less. I don't think I can simply force the rails - they feel really hard and unyielding.
As for the radius on the companion way hatch - I need to certainly bend that because it's supposed to give shape to the hatch which is flatter now than it used to be. If I would screw a straight board on there it would flatten the hatch completely, which is the opposite of what I want.
I'm attaching a picture where you can see where the rails are missing and maybe guess at the curve, and notice also the 'naked' (without wooden stiffener) sliding hatch.

[ebb]

What Mike says is right on.
Very often the rails have been cut out of 3/4" stock. Bendable.
What you might try is to use scrap blocks of wood and stick them to the cabin with double-sided fiberglass carpet tape. You will probably be able to hold the curve once you get, as Mike suggests, the first fastening in. And/or both end fastenings in. You might just be able to prop a curve with a batten off the hatch rail once the two end fastenings are in their holes. Or just a weight. Just make sure the rail is square to the cabin top.

The curve in the hatch trim across the hatch-slide has to be cut. Best with a bandsaw.

[Mike Goodwin]

I've bent 1" teak completely down the side for a rubrail .
On the hatch , make sure you have the grain running the right way.
A quick trick , if the wood is small enough, wrap in wet cotton towels and nuke for a few minutes. Comes out like a HOT noodle and you better work quick .
I've steamed 30' long 3" thick ,16" wide planks and it ain't no picnic , no sir !

[Stephan]

Mike, I think neither the handrails nor the stiffener for the hatch would fit into a normal microwave. So if I still want to try steaming, how would I do it? Anybody has built a steambox, ever?
I guess I could try bending the handrails just by forceing them against the cabin roof with screws, but I'm somewhat leery of putting that constant strain on the cabin roof. Don't want that area cracked. And I'm feeling that the center of it would be forced against the roof really strong...

[Mike Goodwin]

I have built several steam boxes , up to 38' long , you dont need one .

You don't use screws , through bolts is the only way to attach a handrail.
If the handrail pulls loose , someone gets hurt, and it is only screwed in .Then you get screwed by the lawyers and insurance companies .

Use a trim strip or inside handrails in the cabin , the roof will be OK .

[SkipperJer]

Mike's right on all counts. I've done this on mine. Fasten one end first (through-bolts with backing). You'll have plenty of leverage to ease the next one down over the next hole. Through-bolt that one then go on to the next. The last will be the toughest but won't kill you or the boat. It doesn't take as much force as you think if you go in steps. You'll be surprised how close the last one will be.

Be really sure all the holes line up before you start. I spent most of my time on this step. I had to clean out rotted plywood and fill the old holes. The holes on the new rail were not a dead match. I drilled as I went using the new rail as a guide. Actually attaching the rail took about 20 minutes. Getting ready got spread out over a couple of work days.

Welcome to boat ownership. Nothing's easy, then it's Monday.

[Stephan]

Well, you guys have me convinced. I'll check if the old holes would match and if I can easily drill them out again - I don't know what the PO used as filler. I hope I'm lucky. Good thing you said to use bolts, that makes a lot of sense.
I'll get to the sliding hatch stiffener after that...

[SkipperJer]

Take a good look at Don Casey's 'Good Old Boat' chapter on how to clean out old holes in deck, fill them with epoxy and re-drill. It's time consuming but essential for the long term.

[eric (deceased)]

You may have to drill slightly oversized holes.also keep this in mind---if you assemble something that you think you may have to disassemble at a later date for any reason----do not use a permanent adheasive like 5200-----unless you leave firearms laying around. :D

[Stephan]

If I have to drill stuff out like Don Casey suggests I was planning on refilling them with Polyester Resin, simply because I already have it lying around. I've followed the whole Poly/Epoxy discussion before. I'd think that taping the drillhole from below and pouring the stuff in should work well enough. Or do you really think I need to get the 'poxy for more strength???

[Mike Goodwin]

At least use vinylester resin or putty , pure resin has very little strength. 3-M makes a vinylester putty sold by the pint or qt. in West Marine and other joints. Cheap and easy to use .

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/Fiberglass_Repair/?PC_7_0_17ER_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_17ER_output=html&PC_7_0_17ER_gvel=9FJFL5HG9Dgl&PC_7_0_17ER_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_17ER_node=GS6KWRQ05Qbe&PC_7_0_17ER_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_17ER_command=AbcPageHandler