Unknown Parts

[French]

Any one know what these are for.
item one:

[French]

The second part:

[S.Airing]

#1 looks like the block with jam for a down hall,#2 bottom part of a bilge pump.I see you still have the old style of rudder post bearing,does it leak?

[French]

No leaks at the rudder post, I guess I have beginners luck.

Down haul block w/jam... that would be for the bottom of the boom or tighting the foot of the main sail...? Both of these are just tied now. When I got the boat there were extra things laying around in a drawer. I'm slowly piecing thing together as they should be.

[Bill]

That is not the rudder post bearing. That is the end cap that holds things in place. The bearing fits inside and under the end cap.

[S.Airing]

Not on Sirocco Bill,I bought Sirocco from the original owner 11 years ago the old man I got it from was too tight to replace the toilet paper let alone the rudder cap bearing,it had the original cap With 2- O rings just like on Frenches boat.I have only taken 2 apart the other was a Trition and it had just the cap also.The bearing as per the drawing in the manuel is what I show and had made in the rudder post picture ,it wont fit under that cap.I dont see why you would need both ,they are both the same thing.The only reason I would see to take this apart is if you have an inboard because the prop shoots water up the shaft.Anyone with an outboard should probably never see this problem and never have to touch this.It had to be a change from Pearson.What do you have ?Lets see a picture.

[S.Airing]

Still waiting to see someone reply about the rudder bearing.Am I the only one that only has the 1 bearing without the cap?Or the cap with out the bearing.If Im wrong its been working pretty good for the last 5 years or so.I also encourage all the lurkers that do not register to reply to this if I`m wrong.

[Mike Goodwin]

Mine was just a cap with an O-ring , I added a piece of cutlass bearing , works great !

[Tony G]

Number 113 has just a cap that is lacking the o-ring! I thought finding or fabricating and replacing the bearing was just another task on the to do list before we take the plunge. Maybe not? Is the bearing needed?

[S.Airing]

I have found that the rudder post cap and the bearing serve the same pupose,but the bearing has alot more surface area on the shaft.My cap had an egg shape were the shaft came threw from years of use and would no longer seal out the water under power.The bearing gives the tiller a much more solid feel.I still thing that the bearing is a Pearson revision from the cap just like the cockpit support.The drawing in the manuel is dated 1982.I am happy to see Im not a lone on this.

[S.Airing]

Tony G.,your cap should have 2 o-rings,1 for around the rudder shaft and 1 for around the outer rudder post.

[Brent]

I think #66 just has the end cap. I haven't dismantled it yet, but the cap is loose (I can pull it up) and there seems to be a lot of play in it.

[Mike Goodwin]

Here is what I put under my cap ;
Gives a lot of bearing surface and now there is zero wobble in the shaft .

Mike G

[S.Airing]

Mike,thats a smart idea.I assume the cutlass bearing fit down in the tube without any modificationYou would still need the cap with its 2 o-rings to seal out the water.My cap was shot and would no longer keep out the water so I would of had to have another one made.The bearing I had made from the Pearson drawing has 2 places for the o-rings.

[S.Airing]

My 13 inch wheel pumps alot of water up the shaft,the post has to have a really good seal.If you own an outboad model this wouldnt be as much of a concern.

[Mike Goodwin]

I just measured the tube & shaft , it happens to be a common size for a cutlass bearing , all I had to do was gently tap it into the tube with a rubber mallet .

[S.Airing]

Thanks Mike,I`m still curious does everyone just have the cap?I say again I think the bearing was a Pearson revision.Still looking for comments?

[Bill]

If it was a revision, it must have happened in the first months of Ariel production. #76 had the bearing shown in the manual, which I replaced in 1982 with a new one from Pearson that looked just like the one in the manual drawing.

[S.Airing]

Looks like your the lone ranger on this one Capt. Bill,the drawing of the bearing is from 1982 in the manuel and the cap from 1964. I ask again as an a dumb engineer why would you need both????One more thing I would like to add,every thing I put on this board is from my personal experience not something I have read in a manuel or have watched someone else do.

[Bill]

That's what you get for being an engineer and reading all that stuff on the drawings:) The "1982" date was the date the bearing drawing was re-done by Jean Lee for the First Edition of the manual. She is a local San Jose draftsperson and owned #330. The Cap drawing was not redrawn and reflects the latest Pearson revision in 1964.

The cap is shown fitting over the rudder post tubing. Its purpose is to retain the bearing. Note that the rudder shaft is drawn inside the rudder post at 1.062 inch diameter. The bearing, which fits into the rudder post tubing, has an inner diameter of 1.5 inches, allowing the shaft to turn against the O ring. It would be more clear if Pearson had shown the wall thickness and inner diameter of the tube on the cap drawing.

[noeta-112]

All,

Just took off my rudder shaft cap which was held on with 3 - 1/8" allen head set screws. there is a bronze sleeve/bushing on the rudder post proper which is captured by the smaller of the two inside diameters of the cap when the cap is in place.

The cap looks to be machined to fit over the rudder tube and to act as a bearing surface for the sleeve/bushing which is on the rudder shaft.

I can find only one o-ring which is inset into a groove in the top portion of the cap which then rides directly against the rudder shaft.

I have a lot of slop too and will either go the cutlass bearing route or press in a sleeve to reduce the inside diameter of the cap bearing surface a bit further.

Russ

[S.Airing]

Thanks,noeta,your cap sounds different than mine was.It had 2 o-rings,1 at the top were the shaft went threw and a large one at the bottom that sealed around the post.Any way I threw it away along time ago.

[S.Airing]

This is all I have,you have to remember this is a poor mans boat.If I were rich and could aford both the bearing and cap I`d probably live in California.

[Brent]

Here is the rudder post from #66. The cap, like that on Noeta, has three set screws. There appears to be no bearing inside, as when I pull the cap up, the shaft moves freely from side to side.

This is not to say that there was never a bearing there...#66 is, after all, 40 years old.

[Brent]

Let's try that again...

[noeta-112]

S.Airing,

On closer inspection of my cap it would seem that the sleeve/bushing on the rudder post doesn't come close to bearing on the shoulder within the cap ... but it will when I get done with it!!! I priced a cutlass bearing...Yikes, I couldn't have afforded that when I did live in Kalifornia. Certainly can't living here in Maine. But I can exercise the 2nd Ammendment.:D

[noeta-112]

As I mentioned before my cap has a shoulder of a smaller diameter than the section that sets down over the rudder post tube. This shoulder surrounds a sleeve/bushing on the rudder shaft but still leaves a gap in excess of 1/4" all around. So the only real bearing surface currently is the hole(& o-ring) in the top of the cap that the rudder shaft passes through.

A friend has some teflon sheeting 3/4" thick that I intend to cut into a donut shape to fit into the cap and surround the rudder sleeve/bushing. I will pin the teflon donut in place within the cap to keep it from shifting and it will also be easy too replace with a new donut as required. Should work slick. The teflon is very tough and my friend has used the stuff for bearings in fish feed barges for the past few years and notes there is very little wear.

This may not be the final solution but for me it's the timely $$ ticket $$ .