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Thread: schematic or design for original drop boards

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Brooklyn, NY
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    schematic or design for original drop boards

    Does anyone have a picture of what the originals look like? Exact dimensions, whether they were tongue-in-groove, etc.?

    Any suggestions or insight are very welcome.

  2. #2
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    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    Stop by my house and you can take a look at mine, make some tracings.

    They're originals, plywood with veneer as far as I can tell.

    They're getting a few coats of varnish right now

  3. #3
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    Cool - where are you? Send me a private message, if you can. I just happen to be at my parents' home this week taking care of a few things....

  4. #4
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    Sep 2001
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    San Rafael, CA
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    drop boards

    Hi. Believe 338's were original too. But the three equally sized pieces are 3/4" solid mahogany with a fat spline-filled dado on the sliding edges.

    Middle horizontal edges have a simple 1/2" lap for shedding water.

    The splines are 5/16" wide and are 3/4" deep. These glued-in splines must have helped keep the solid boards from warping, kept the boards from splitting, and long grain made a smoother edge for sliding. It's a nice simple trick that's lasted for decades.
    Last edited by ebb; 04-21-2005 at 02:17 PM.

  5. #5
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    I took a look at the boards, that sounds right I think.

    Sent you a private message there Cap'n Keith.

    A companionway with those swinging doors is pretty neat too.

  6. #6
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    swinging doors

    Here's a shot of doors we made in shop class. Curved tops were fun!
    Looking for some hardware, latch?? Small handles? Ideas? A way to secure the hatch? Need to go check out some boats i guess. I'm all alone, no one to race with.

    Also looking for a way to hang an anchor on the pulpit. Saw a boat that had theirs in a couple simple brackets hanging that way, easy to deploy. Can't find brackets. Help?
    Attached Images  
    wet willieave maria

  7. #7
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    Fantastic doors Bill.

    So, I see you plan to mount them outside of the grooved dropboard slot. Here's an idea for locking it up that might lead on to something.

    How about a separate made up astragal of stainless that would drop into a slot in front of the two doors in the threshold and rise above the doors with the traditional horizontal slot that takes the tongue for the hatch lock? It could be just a flat bar of 1/8" stuff, or it could have a stub out on the back that would fit between the doors to further stablize them. A short legged 'T' in section.

    This would be a separate piece just for locking up when away.
    You'ld probably have to add a sliding bolt inside to keep the hatch from sliding open. So it would be harder to force open.
    Last edited by ebb; 04-23-2005 at 07:57 AM.

  8. #8
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    Northern MN
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    Woa!

    Willie,

    Nobody ever turned out something like that in any shop class I've been in! Hoochie mama I like that!

    113 had a set of swinging doors on her when I picked her up. There were flat backed barrel bolts on one door that pinned into the threshold/sill on the bottom and one that pinned into a hardwood strip on the sliding hatch on the top. The other door had a keyed lockset (mounted from the inside of course) that had a dead bolt that shot into the pinned door. From the outside all you saw was the 3/4" brass key hole.

    (still drooling)

  9. #9
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    Brooklyn, NY
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    Those doors look great - I like the lines... There's a good design in the Manual that this organization puts together as well. Any chance you've got measurements or a schematic for a pretty thing like that?

    THis year, we're going to do basic dropboards because we've got so much going on, but I'd love to do companionway doors for next year, I think.

  10. #10
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    Aug 2003
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    FOSSIL OREGON
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    ah, shucks guys, it's just wood.

    I put them outside the grooves for the boards, didn't want to loose that option. And in practice (sailing) i don't really know that i like the doors. Open, they're kinda in the way of things, like halyards that run back, depthsounder, etc. So they're kinda just for show. I still slide in a piece of plexiglass behind them, and secure the hatch through a slot in it. Works ok. And they're on take apart hinges, so they go below most of the time. It was a fun project though, and they are beautiful.

    As far as measurements/schematics?? No, just have your local 4yr. old hold a piece of cardboard up to the c/way with you inside with a pencil. Go from there. Nothing to it.
    wet willieave maria

  11. #11
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    Orinda, California
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    Quote Originally Posted by willie
    . . . just have your local 4yr. old hold a piece of cardboard up to the c/way with you inside with a pencil. Go from there. Nothing to it.
    I remember the "good old days" when my son was young and could easily climb inside the cockpit lockers to help secure deck fasteners, find dropped stuff or just hide out. I'm small enough to squeze in, but it's getting real difficult to get back out.

  12. #12
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    Apr 2004
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    Pensacola, FL
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    Don't klnow if this helps....

    Don't klnow if this helps, but since you asked and I had the camera here is one.

    Does anyone have a picture of what the originals look like?
    Attached Images  


    s/v 'Faith'

    1964 Ariel #226
    Link to our travels on Sailfar.net

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    5

    Need width, hight, and thickness for companionway ...

    I purchased a Pearson Ariel just over two weeks ago a fair distance from where I live in Toronto. There are no washboards or anything for the boat and I need to make something up for my next visit which will be in a few days time. I want to be able to leave things in the boat which would be nice. At present I have a piece of very thin ply that a freind cut out in haist to keep most of the rain out. The wheather has been really all over the place as of late. Over the last two weeks or so I have been going through this site on a full time basis and this site was the big deciding factor in purchasing the boat. I've worked on and restored many a boat. Wood, steel, and fiberglass. Cabin cruisers, sailboats, ans tenders. I must say I would never have thought that I would come across an owners site like this. I'm amazed. I thought I was prity knowledgable when it comes to anything about boats and I've been blown away. It is great to see so much debate and trading of ideas and info. The boat I've gone and bought is a major fixer upper. I think almost every boat I've bought has been a project and I think this one takes the cake with the need for recoring and the fact that the gelcoat on the deck is flaking off. I enjoy working on boats as much as I enjoy sailing and cruising. The plan for this one is to fix it up and take it South for this up comming winter. Bahamas and maybe Cuba. Recently I bought charts off a friend covering the entir Eastern Seaboard of the US and beyond to the Pacific, and more covering a good deal of Europe. Was supposed to go last fall on a friends boat with another mate and the owner bailed last minute. Girlfriend is just in. Please. Need info for making companionway slide washboards. Even a one peicer for now so I can lock up. Leaving soon for intensive restoration (two weeks) far from home so boat can go in water and brought back to T.O. I've never seen so many through hulls, and I'm a little worried about the rudder. The info I have is that the boat has been out of the water for a year and a half. The rudder feels like it isn't very strong on the post. There is some glass work on it in places. Will the wood take up and there is nothing to worry about or should I be taking it apart and glassing it proper? Thanks to all. James Lake Ontario. Toronto Canada. Boat origionaly hailed out of Michigan on Lake Erie. #3 something. Forget now.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orinda, California
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    2,311
    Quote Originally Posted by JamesLakeOnt
    Need info for making companionway slide washboards. Even a one peicer for now so I can lock up. . The rudder feels like it isn't very strong on the post. There is some glass work on it in places. Will the wood take up and there is nothing to worry about or should I be taking it apart and glassing it proper? . . .Boat origionaly hailed out of Michigan on Lake Erie. #3 something. Forget now.
    Welcome to the group, James.

    I looked, but seem to have misplaced the single acrylic sheet I used to replace the main hatch's "washboards" (hatchboards?). If no one else replies, I'll get the measurements Thursday or Friday. As for the rudder, unless it's really loose on the shaft, try it in the water first. The wood usually swells and things tighten up nicely. For more info, search on "rudder" using the button at the top of the page.

    Don't think you have hull #3. We show that boat as belonging to Keith Morgenstern in Virginia.

    Please use the form on the home page to register your Ariel. Or, E-mail me the information [rphelon [at] juno (dot) com]

    Bill Phelon, Secretary

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Central NJ, Raritan Bay
    Posts
    114

    Cabin boards

    Capt.,

    My compliments on your fine purchase.

    I have a standby board that is used off season or when I need to freshen up the varnish on the three boards. It is 5/8 plywood, shaped sort of like a tombstone. It is 20 3/4 inches wide, 23 3/8 in. high to the top of the crown and 22 1/2 in. high at the shoulders. Fits like a glove. Even cut in a slot for the lock tang.

    Welcome aboard, skipper.

    Dan
    ()-9

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