Is there any reason that this design (rudimentary drawing, to be sure) wouldn't suffice to drain the standing water that always sits at my stern rail while docked? The outboard laz is self-draining, no? Any harm in just having a scupper drain directly into the laz? I've seen the slotted aft toerail (pictured somewhere here on this site) but this scupper seems easier to construct. Create a substrate for an original scupper to drop into, and chop, chop, all done....
Last edited by Lucky Dawg; 09-12-2011 at 08:18 PM.
Kyle
C-65 Lucky Dawg
Maybe I'm missing something here.
A-338 has the toe rails all the way aft with a deck level exit for any deck water directly overboard.
She must have come that way from Pearson.
She has a molded compound curve 'stern rail' of the same height as the toerails but it does NOT connect with the toerails - there is an intentional two inch gap molded that way on both sides to allow deck water to go directly overboard over the transom. That's the hard way of saying that nothing stops water from leaving the deck.
The stainless half-round seam trim, the 'rub rail', has to be removed in way of these scuppers to allow full drainage.
Found the aft deck lumpy and rather unfair and uneven.
Did some carving and lowering of the 'scuppers' between stern rail and sides until I got what seems to be better draining exits. Had to carve into the seam and between the the deck molding and the hull. Actually into the transom. One scupper required more grinding, more lowering, than the other. Easy to patch inside.
Remember Aussie Geoff had one side of Uhuru that was way lower in a major way, and had to rebuild the whole quarter.
Page 7, post #127 - and page 10, post #198 (Ebb's Gallery) there are photos that show how any Ariel's toerails terminate at the stern. Minus the stainless trim.
You should also have factory built-in deck scuppers, in the decks on either side of the cockpit coamings, that are supposed to drain incidental water.
If they don't then maybe use a straight edge to see what the problem is with the deck not draning.
Last edited by ebb; 09-13-2011 at 01:10 AM.
The PO of Destiny had drilled a couple of holes in her deck to allow the water to drain out that Kyle is talking about. See the picture below and please excuse the dust that has accumulated on Destiny's deck since I've been working only on the inside.
Kyle
I plan to do exactly what you are suggesting except I will plumb my scupper drain into the bilge pump drain line because Destiny will have dry storage in the laz after the inboard electric drive is installed. The link below is to one version of the drain (not necessarily the one one I will use) that could work as long as it is recessed per your drawing.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Scupper+Drain
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
OH! Well I'll be damned. Now why would Pearson do that?
But I do think it a bad idea to drain any deck water into the lazarette.
Especially sweet water.
One could, if at any point in a remodel you have decent access,
HARD plumb those deck holes out the transom.
You can soften and bend PVC pipe/conduit into any curve you like
and then glass in the result like Pearson did the rudder tube.
Or glass in flanges thru the deck - and thru the transom - and connect with hose.
The alteration could be done with 5200 as well.
I wonder what RICO has back there?
And for that matter what CommanderPete came up with?
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Do Commanders have the in deck scuppers Ariel's have?
A-338's are hard plumbed from the hole in the deck - have a short tube shunt to the hull inside -
and then have a large heavily glassed half-round tubular structure running down the hull to a hole at the waterline. The thru-holes are plain, they have no flanges or structure.
Maybe the same could be done in the lazarette, but instead of turning and going thru the transom, just exit the hull. The exit holes underneath would be small enough and unnoticable, on a dark hull never seen.
Perhaps a better and simpler way would be to introduce a pipe at deck level right thru the 'stern rail'. As a continuation of the toe rail gutter. No angles, just right on thru.
PVC is not the best stuff to epoxy. Non-bendable fiberglass pipe is available and would be perfect. The rudder shaft tube is fiberglass pipe.
No deck holes.
Last edited by ebb; 09-13-2011 at 08:35 AM.
Ebb
Commanders do have a scupper on the deck about half way back in the cockpit area. And when she is sitting correctly on her lines in the water that is the low point of the side deck. However many of these boats do not sit on their designed water line they tend to sit bow up higher than they should. And that is what causes the water to accumulate at the aft end of the toe rail. I'm planning on trying to rebalance Destiny once I get the added lead pig out and batteries in. I will save the lead from the pig and possible remold a portion of it to fit in the chain locker to get her to sit correctly. But if I have too much weight in the laz I could easily end up with the same situation again.
I really like your idea of hard plumbing in the drain. That could be less costly and a better solution.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
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JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
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