Has anyone heard of asbestos in the commanders or Ariels? Anyone who is sanding or working in them might be subject to high exposures...
I may get a piece of my boat tested to see if they were using Asbestos in the paint?
Has anyone hear anything about this?
Or has anyone tested their own boat?
Pretty unlikely to find asbestos in this material. Worth considering, though, that teeny glass particles are every bit as bad in many ways...as is any fine dust. The big word for today: psyllicosis (likely misspelled).
Same applies, BTW, to sanding dust from Teak, Mahogany, and pretty near any other wood. Some woods are acidic and will irritate the skin and eyes.
While not likely to be found in your boat (too new), most older white paint contains lead.
Any and all antifouling paint contains varieties of ugly toxins...Cuprous Oxide, TBT...
Silica...as in the contents of Cab-O-Sil and the component of blasting sand...is directly tied to both psyllicosis (sp?) and lung cancer.
Concrete dust such as you encounter anywhere and everywhere without realizing it...it isn't too hot either.
Asbestos...lurks to this day in small amounts within brand-new modern brake and clutch lining materials, potting soil, oil-sorb and cat litter.
Long and short, whether there is asbestos in the boat or not...which is pretty doubtful...when dealing with anything that makes teeny tiny dust one is wise to regard it as seriously bad to breathe and wear appropriate resperatory protection. As far as sample testing, I'd save the money and put it towards a nice respirator.
Best,
Dave
And two other thoughts might be of interest:
1. After you buy a mask that will filter out asbestos, lead, dust and toxic fumes you might also place a large powerful but cheap box fan over your open forward port. Place it on the hatch sop that it blows up to serve as an exhaust fan. That way the fan will remove particle and not just blow a lot of air into the cabin to stir up particles. Then leave the companionway hatch open. A bungee cord will hold the fan in place.
2. Give some though to a pressurized mask that has a remote air source if you are dealing with really nasty stuff or prolonged exposure.
3. I discovered recently that the thin paint the Pearson sprayed or slopped into all of the lockers rubs off pretty well by wiping it with a rough cloth (or paper towel) soaked in acetone. Of course the acetone fumes present another problem. I was able to prep an area for epoxy repair with very little sanding of the glass laminate, and I didn't have to do any sanding of paint whatsoever, because I used a few acetone soaked paper towels. But if you are dealing with prior-owner-applied thirty to forty year old paint, there is no telling what you might find down there. I spent the first moth that I owned my boat below with a grinder and other tools of paint destruction. My box fan was my second best friend and my mask was my best friend. Also another safety idea is worthy of note. If you are seriously working below, wear a hard hat. You'd be surprised what you can do to your head while you are focusing on stripping paint.
Scott
Asbestos is unlikely, right.
You can buy a little paint test kit to check for lead. Tested where no man painted after Pearson sprayed it on. No lead paint in #338.
For large surfaces Peel Away is the only way.
To bare areas for tabbing or glueing, try the carbide blade scrappers by Sandvic. You can't find them everywhere. I use them constantly.
36/40 grit clothbacked floor sanding material is also good for scrubbing paint off.
Acetone and a whole litany of solvents is produced by unethical corporations and foisted on the public by aberrant dna consumer reps.
If you wear a mask while using acetone and you can still smell it you are distroying brain cells.
I use denatured alcohol only and I'm round the bend. Please don't use these solvents if you can avoid them.
My story on this is:
Years ago, ancient history, I stuffed a rag with paint thinner into the front left pocket of my trousers. and forgot about it. until I felt a mild stinging. Decades later there is a 6" round patch of left leg that I can't feel. I figure I killed the nerve cells there. Forever. Breathing the stuff diffused with some air isn't any different. IS IT?
Last edited by ebb; 08-03-2004 at 01:32 PM.
Well the sample is off for testing. I should check for lead also i guess.
Our boat has the original "speckle" paint. Most of it is flaking off. We are planning on sanding off any loose stuff and then primer and painting.
the shelves are sloppy the glass tabs are broken now and the holes for the wood shelving trim is split.
We have the 3m masks and the p100 filers which should filter out all paricles? is that corrrect?
One other thought, Any recomedations for durable strong paint for painting the fiberglass in the cabin? It seems the theorys vary on this topic...
Easypoxy or similar one-part poly will do a very nice job by brush, roller or spray if the prep job is nicely done, the paint is thinned as directed, and the appropriate primer used. Ver tough, durable stuff.
It's worth noting--and doing--that you can buy a midicide-type paint additive at any good industrial or commercial paint store to put in the paint. Never worry about mildew again!
Dave
Last edited by Bill; 08-03-2004 at 09:29 PM.
Once you start sanding the interior, more and more paint wants to come off. At some point you just have to call it "good enough."
You can use household paint, a flat exterior enamel (not latex). I used that inside the storage lockers.
I went with a boat paint (Interlux) for the rest of the interior, hoping it might last longer than household paint. I never want to go through that prep work again.
Boat paints are glossy. You can buy a flattening agent, but I thought it was a little expensive.
Well the official report is: NO Asbestos!!
None in the original paint, or fiberglass, or in any of the deck paint/gel coat.
Good news, I also assume that other pearsons will have simular results, but I make no promises.
I like Interlux one part LPU on non skid on deck or in shiny form in the lazarette locker, but in the cabin, I decided to use Interlux white yacht enamel. I did not want to be in a closed area with wet LPU. As for the yacht Enamel, I don't know whether enamel fumes are better or worse to breath than LPU. As for the finished product, I like it.
It lasts. It is bright and shiny. I have found wee bit of something that could be mildew after about three years in a semi-wet climate. The mildew wa in an open area in the fore cabin where there is not cabin liner. I did not paint the cvabin liner. The "mildew" wiped off with little scrubbing. Maybe it was somethign else. Generally in lockers or open spaces it has remained fresh new, and mold free. Then again I endeavor to keep my boat dry, and I have a four inch cowl vent on the bow.
Last edited by Scott Galloway; 08-06-2004 at 10:47 PM.
Scott
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