Love the end caps on the rub rail. Have the Eagle moulding "in stock" in my garage, but couldn't wrap my head around how to terminate it cleanly. Ended up installing the rub rail without the moulding. At your convenience, could you ID your source/part? That nice white dress will stay cool in the FL sunshine.
Kyle
C-65 Lucky Dawg
KyleOriginally Posted by Lucky Dawg
Love the end caps on the rub rail. Have the Eagle moulding "in stock" in my garage, but couldn't wrap my head around how to terminate it cleanly. Ended up installing the rub rail without the moulding. At your convenience, could you ID your source/part? That nice white dress will stay cool in the FL sunshine.
Here is the link to West (worst) Marine where you can get them.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/taco--...-cap--10724862
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
So I'm getting a lot closer to actually splashing Destiny and I get really frustrated some times because I can't just work on her non-stop because I have to work for a living also, dang it......
Anyway here are a few current pics.
BTW, the wire you can see laying on the side deck is part of the mast raising system I will be using. I will document that here once I start using it.
The mast is also ready to go back on the boat. I'll follow this post with a couple mast pictures.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
An overview, and the top and bottom of the mast.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
Hey Jerry,
Ordering some screws from Bolt Depot.
Quick question - Did you use 1" or 1/ 1/4" #6 screws for your rub rail? 1 1/4" seems long! Without the moulding, I had 3/4" - which put them 1/2" into the fiberglass. 9/16" (moulding + stainless) + 1/2" lies between the two!
I'm only obsessing on it because the rail with moulding setup in your pix appears to sit a bit below where my old rail sat (right on the hull-deck joint) and I want them poking as little as possible through into the cabin.
KW
Kyle
C-65 Lucky Dawg
Kyle
As far as placement on my rub rail I wanted the top of the rail a consistent distance from the top of the toe rail so I took a roll of 3/4" masking tape and put a continuous piece in the area where the rub rail would go so that the top of the masking tape was lined up with the top of the toe rail. Then I lined up the top of the rub rail with the bottom of the masking tape. In some cases this put the centerline of the rub rail right on the hull deck joint and in other places not so much. But to my minds eye it was pleasing.
As far as the screws I used 1-1/4" screws but in the cabin area if you remember I filled the toe rail with polyester filler and then glassed over it. So the screws do not show up inside the cabin area at all. Towards the back of the boat where I did not do that (aft of the genoa track area) the screws stuck out inside the boat 1/8" to 3/16". Which for me was about perfect.
Something else about the way I installed the rub rail. At each screw location first I would drill a pilot hole for the screw. Then I would drill a clearance hole through only the rub rail that would allow the screw to slide easily through it. Then I would pump 5200 into the clearance hole (not easy and hard on the hand squeezing the caulking gun) to fill the void behind the rub rail. Then I would run the screw in and when it tightened up the 5200 would completely seal the area and provide backing to the rail. If you follow this method you will want to put masking tape below the rail as well as above because you will get squeeze out of the 5200 and the tape will make clean up easy.
Hope this helps Kyle and good luck with your installation.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
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