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Thread: Dropping the mast by hand

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Anchorage, AK boat in SF Bay, CA
    Posts
    34

    Unstepping Mast

    Looks like there is lots of interest in unstepping mast, so I will briefly describe my procedure and then later I will put together something more detailed. Sorry I didn't get any good pics, I had full intentions of taking lots of pictures, but I only had a couple hands helping, so I was too busy.
    Disclaimer:The mast is fairly heavy, so use this method at your own risk, if careful attention to detail while rigging is maintained, you or your helpers could definitely take a fatal knock on the head and or damage your or another boat.
    I would reccomend at least two people for this job, 3-4 is optimum to have lots of eyes on the job. Also if possible move your boat to an area away from other boats to avoid the risk of damage.
    You will need:
    1. A strong, stable ladder about 20'. The top rung of the ladder needs to be at least 15-20 inches above the spreaders when placed. I made the mistake of having too short a ladder and it created some difficulties. The base of the ladder was placed on top of the cabin. If the legs of the ladder are not wide enough to go outside of the hatch sliders, I would reccomend using a 2x6 placed accross the sliders. You could also put the base in the cockpit if you have a very tall ladder.
    2. 4-5- 3 or 4 to 1 block and tackles with a good 40 feet of stong line. I used my mainsheet and boom vang for a couple of these.
    3. A couple 30 foot lines to suspend the ladder, the jib sheets worked well for me.
    4. Lots of shorter lines for securing the base of the ladder, spreaders and the base of the mast.
    Procedure:
    1. Prepare the base of the mast, I secured 2 block and tackles on the port and stbd. side of the base of the mast. This will allow you to swing the base out in a controlled manner. I secured mine from the jib track. Try to get the block in tackles directly in line port & stbd along the centerline of the mast. This will prevent mast from kicking out uncontrollably.
    2. Set up the ladder. Secure your two suspension lines to the top rung of the ladder. prepare the area where the base pads will be. You may need to use a 2x6 for the base and should use some padding such as old carpet or padding to prevent legs from scratching hull. The suspension point should be directly above the spreaders. If the ladder is too tall it will not have a good angle. About 15-20 degrees is best. When you feel you have a good position, The base of the ladder needs to be very securely tied down. Use 2 lines rigged fore and aft on each side of the ladder. make sure they are good, tight, and strong. this will prevent the ladder from swinging as mast is lowered. Next the top suspension lines will be secured. I rigged mine to the aftermost cleats. Tighten them until the top rung suspension point is just a bit aft of the spreaders. When the ladder takes the weight of the mast the stretch should put the rung directly above the spreaders.
    3. Set up a block and tackle from the top rung of the ladder to the spreaders. I reccomend the use of a safety line and harness when working aloft. The ladder you have just set up is a convenient conveyance. I reccomend using a 4:1 tackle here to give good control. Make your tie point from both spreaders at the center of the mast. Likewise from ladder.
    4. Last I reccomed a block and tackle rigged to the mainsheet for added control.
    Check, double, and triple check all your rigging for security.
    Put a person on the suspension tackle and the mast base tackles.
    Tighten up the suspension tackle to take the weight of the mast on the ladder.
    Now you can begin to loosen all the standing rigging. As you loosen your tunbuckles, keep adding tension to the hoist. The mast should begin to raise straight up. It need to raise up straight because there is a steel tube for the wiring that goes up about 6 inches into the mast that will bind if the mast raises or lowers at an angle. (This was my main complication with the shorter ladder.)
    You will also have to pay out the mast base tackles slowly as the mast rises.
    When you feel you have control of the mast from the main hoist and the base tackles, you can detach all the turnbuckles. Make sure the base tackles are very secure and strong.
    Keep raising the mast until you clear the tube, pull out the mast wiring.
    Now you may SLOWLY start paying out the base tackles to swing the base out in a controlled manner. At the same time the main hoist can be SLOWLY lowered. Keep proceeding in this manner carefully until the mast is laying horizontally in a nice secure spot. This is where a few extra helplers to guide the mast down help out alot. Be very carful when the mast starts to tip horizontally in can get a little unwieldy if you are not careful.

    Well, sorry description was not really brief, but there it is. I will try to add some descriptive drawings.
    Stepping should be a reverse, we'll see! Good luck and be VERY safety concious. This can be very dangerous if you are not careful. If you are not comfortable with rigging at all I would NOT use this method.

    Also pics to come of restoration soon,
    Tim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    Since I installed a Ballenger mast hinge, I've had the mast up and down twice. I used the boom as a gin pole. The process filled me with great anxiety. I didn't think the mast had enough lateral stability. In other words, it could start tipping off to one side or the other.

    This time I decided to build an A-frame along the lines of the link above.

    I used a larger hinge. You need to line up the holes for the 1/2" by 10" bolt with the A-frame open, since the angle changes if the A-frame is open or closed.

    At the base of each leg I installed an eye bolt and lashed it to the middle chainplates.

    I overlapped the 2 X 4s on each leg about 7 inches instead of three. I think it should overlap more or maybe they make a metal sleeve that could be used.

    First the mast is moved forward and the mast hinge connected. Then the A-frame is laid on top.
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by commanderpete; 04-20-2006 at 11:08 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    Only two lines are used. One is shackled to the A-frame bolt and raises the A-frame up.
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    Last edited by commanderpete; 04-20-2006 at 11:08 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    The other line has a noose that goes under the spreader brackets. That line goes through a block at the top of the A-frame and brings up the mast.
    Attached Images  
    Last edited by commanderpete; 04-20-2006 at 11:10 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    The guy on the ground is supposed to be keeping an eye on the furler so it doesn't bend too much or otherwise get damaged.

    Both lines are led to blocks at the center/stern of the boat and then to the winches.
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    Last edited by commanderpete; 04-20-2006 at 11:11 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
    Posts
    1,823
    No pictures of the mast actually going up. The cameraman may have been taking cover.

    Once the mast is up, the backstay, furler and shrouds are connected
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    Last edited by commanderpete; 04-20-2006 at 11:11 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Manchester, MA
    Posts
    151

    A-Frame

    CommanderPete,

    This is the year I attempt to unstep my own mast. The Boat Hauler says he can take Vakalla with the mast lashed on deck. I have seen several dimensions for the A-Frame legs. What length 2x4's did you use for each leg? Also it looks like you doubled the 2x4's at the peak. Did you need the extra clearance there? My plan was to lash one of my snatch blocks up there around a strap hinge. I am planning on an 8-12 in overlap on each leg. If I lay it out right, I can leave one bolt in and fold the legs up for transportation and storage.

    Curious minds want to know. I would appreciate any comments
    John G.
    Valhalla
    Commander No 287

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    middle earth
    Posts
    120

    Exclamation another good idea beforehand

    I labelled all of the standing rigging in a clockwise manner----that is the forestay(s) were 1&2,then the uppers and lowers were all labelled before removal this way they were all able to go back into the original places at the end,as they may not all be the same proportional length.

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