Deck hardware plan, and

[ebb]

Thanks Mike,
I would too. A warping post. A compleatly trustworthy point of attachment!
I've looked at it and see that bringing the post down to the stem would pretty well compromise the space, it's not much, but useful open like it is. So my thoughts have also gone to the bolt on 'samson post.' Or larger double cleats on the deck. What ever way the underdeck must be beefed up!

Placing the post, it is natural to have it go thru the deck matching the plywood bulkhead, either to the inside or the outside, guts tell me inside. That's a question? 338's deck is compromised, but c.amos must have some leeway. Where it go? Is the post part of your anchoring system?

On a thru deck post, have taken a good bit of wood off the sides once it has left the blocking under the deck. That is, pointed the post somewhat on 3 sides its whole lower length. (The side that will attach to the bulkhead would stay flat, no short grain.) This might keep the forepeak a little more useful. Is this worth doing?

On the gaff rig I had I also put two in the quarters (with regalvanized open pipe pieces thru the top.) The trouble with posts, in my truncated experience. is that they are only good for looping an eye over. You still need cleats for end tying a line. Right? Tying off on a post created an ungainly and awkward heap of line.

So, for the Ariel foredeck, a full 4X4 would not be too much?
What wood might you choose? Bungabunga? Don't think teak can take serious chaffing. Has to be dense and hard and no checking.
I had a whiteoak post once, it developed cracks, never was a way to keep it looking good.

There is the issue of this hunk piercing the deck and how do you caulk it?
I had collars of 1/2" ply (that always looked like ply no matter what I did) like the chainplates have that only worked around the posts because it increased the surface area of the caulk. I think it could always want to leak, probably still does ifn the boat is alive still, given the shrinking and swelling of wood problem. Any fresh water at the join contributes to rot. What to do, what to do..? Thanks

Mike, was thinking, you'd probably caulk the seam with oakum, correct?

[Mike Goodwin]

My choice is , ash post set with wedges of cedar bedded in 5200 .
I like running it all the way down, tie the bitter end to the lower post .
Put a 1/2" bronze round stock through the post above deck. 2 round turns topped with a clove hitch and that line isn't going anywhere and wont chafe line or post. chamfer the edges of the post of course .
Under the deck a 12x12x1.5" block bored 5" square to house the post , wedged with 1/2" cedar set in 5200 . I have done about 120 or so like this with no leaks so far . I think a pure bead of 5200 1/2x1" would work as good if the post was well attached to the bulkhead.

[ebb]

Thanks Mike,
Will be looking for the ash, pronto!

[commanderpete]

Oh boy. Isn't some other part of your anchor system going to fail before the forward cleat gets ripped clean through the wood and out of the deck? At least the anchor is going to drag.

I do think it's worthwhile to put in new bolts and add a larger backing plate.

I got some 1/4" aluminum too Craig. Nice fellow let me have some from his scrap cutting bucket. Lifetime supply. Never hurts to ask.

Now how do I cut it? Angle grinder?

[c_amos]

Couple shots of my 10" cleats aft.

Perfect for towing a drogue, or maybe moonlighting as 'Sea-Tow'