I didn't have any on the topsides of T397, but a gazillion on the bottom. They appeared after I abrasively removed all the paint and did a bit of fairing-by-gelcoat-lump-removal. The spots that didn't just pop open showed up as little short lines or halfmoons, which once pressed at with a jackknife were just the same thing.
These are no big deal (unless they are topside and you have to fill 'em all, hehe) in a structural sense or whatnot...the outer layer of matting just didn't get saturated all the way thru in a way that would have bonded it completely to the gelcoat and there were little air bubbles there. Wouldn't take it as indicative on the rest of the laminate, either. These boats were all made in an incredibly resin-rich fashion...de-airing roller? Hunh? What?
The only roller these boats are likely to have seen was a paint roller dripping with resin which was used to both saturate (!) and smooth down the laminates. Makes perfect sense now, don't it?
Grinding back each of those little chips sounds like alot of work.
I would probably dewax the hull and just give them a once over with a sander or dremel attachment to knock out anything loose. Fill with a peanut butter of epoxy and microbaloons or microlite.
Yeah, you're right. It does sound like a lot of work. We'll fiddle for the middle on the best way to get it done right with the least amount of swearing. But I'm okay with that as long as it cures the problem. My biggest fear now is missing a dozen or so and having them 'pop' open in a couple of years after I put the jizzilion dollar a gallon paint on. Isn't there a serenity prayer for sailors or want to be sailors? Tony G
I thought I'd post these here so the threads don't get too unweildly.
This is the Dwyer boom fitting after some judicious filing. As it turns out they don't just slide into our extrusions. Next on the list is to mold an epoxy "T" that will be inverted and glued inside to (hopefully) make up for the material that I removed. Probably unnecessary but it's winter and what else is there to do?
Tony'
That slip fitting looks just fine!
Just fine the way it is. Will get plenty of strength from the surrounding boom extrusion especially if it's a close fit.
Any thoughts of anodizing or powder coating or otherwise painting the fitting befor it goes in the extrusion?
Ballenger's parts for the 338 mast were all clear anodized.
Well, like I said, they don't just slide right in. the attached pic should explain it alot better than my fumbling words about the screen can do.
Dwyer has the same dimensions on the outside but a drastically differing profile or shape. Our extrusions have a teardrop shape while theirs have an almost perfect eliptical outside profile.
So while I shaved off the shoulders a bit I'll have to build up the sides to give a snug fit inside the boom. That fit is what, I believe, will give it strength at the union between the boom and the new pieces. That will be more evident when I get to the outhaul fitting where it will have even less material left after the file. I keep picturing it 'flipping' out of the boom end and shooting toward the mast head. How will I ever overcome that?
so you see, the paint still on the 'shoulder' will have to be removed so I can build up that area with epoxy. Then it'll probably just get some bright side to cover it.
I fixed the deadlight frames with a one part aluminum putty/paint from these guys.
The frames went thru the powdercoat baking process no problema.
There are a number of metal fillers with video names. Get the aluminum filled one they use on mufflers or is it engine blocks. Hey. WHAT kind of epoxy is THAT?
[Hit the 'Repair' bar then look for Lab Metal. I used the lower priced stuff without problem. Don't have any tips really on using it. Painted it on, it is a loose paste, one part, let it set up. Filed like metal. Get the solvent too. It might not even be epoxy....YEA!
There are two part putty sticks like Aluminox and Permatex makes putties too, never used them. Even West System, has aluminum powder to mix yer own. But the high temp stuff is more intriguing. And I vouch for Lab Metal. It goes on wet. I felt I got something that LIKED aluminum, looks like aluminum, and became aluminum.] LYCKA TILL
This is the 'underbelly' of the outhaul piece. The upper mainsheet block will ride on a stainless bail that will be bolted through the boom and outhaul assembly with a corresponding compression tube (or whatever it's really called).
In honor of Frank Lloyd Wright I busted through the snow drifts and ice into my shop tonight after work. It has it's own type of 'organic architecture' after a long winter's nap...it smells like a cat turd!!! Mr. Wright, surely, would not approve.
Because of these new fittings, the overall boom length had grown. So I decided to cut some off each end to get rid of the old screw holes and what not. A fine opportunity to start anew...
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Tony G
customizing Dwyer castings
