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Thread: Standing Rigging

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  1. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    461
    Ted,

    My comments were based on my own experience and not extensive study of the issues involved. The good news is that my bronze chainplates were probably originals installed nearly forty years ago, and I had not messed with them would probably have held a few top many more years, although they were corroded tpo the degree that it would have been irresponsible to re-install them. The bolts, however, were pretty much shot. Albotu half of them snapped whiel I was removing them.

    The fourth bolt hole that i suggested is an optional thing, and I would not change my plates just to do that, but if you are ordering new plates, and if you have the space for a few more inches of steel and one more hole, then why not? This would be even more of an issue if the top chainplate bolt hole in your bulkeads (like mine) was ever so close to the top edge of the plywood and water damage had occurred there from past leaks.

    The matching of chainplate holes to rigging pin size is an important issue, however, and you will need to insure that you, your chainplate fabricator, and your rigger, if that is someone other than you, are on the same page as far as hole vs. pin dimensions. It may also help if you talk philosophy with all of the above before you start to spend money.

    this photo is the final chainplate installation less standing rigging. Insert is aft lower port chainplate
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    Last edited by Scott Galloway; 10-24-2004 at 12:24 AM.
    Scott

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