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Thread: Bilge Pump Discussions

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Bellingham, Wa.
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    173
    The big whale gusher dual-diaphragm deck pump is a sweetie, something like 40 GPM. Each direction on the handle gives a splurt, and if one diaphragm fails the pump still works at 1/2 capacity. Spendy, but worth every penny. You can find them used in the 100.00 range usually, and the overhaul kit is about 50 bucks to send away for. I'm using one of these as the belowdeck last-ditch pump on the Triton...was playing with making a vacuum head and using it for the flusher, too, but probably won't. A friend of mine mounted one of the same in the cockpit of his Renegade at one point, right by the bridgedeck. Looks and sounds more in-the-way than it was. Ened up replacing it with a 4-inch diameter, bronze Wilcox piston pump that tosses a great huge lot of water (we never did measure) out into the cockpit sole and mounts down thru with the brackets secured to the front wall of the cockpit and a hose inside leading down to the bilge sump. Nice fellow that he is, he tipped me off that there was another in the same place and I snatched it up for 35 bucks! After fighting it apart, a new piece of leather was installed, shined it all up, we're in biz! These were really common on old workboats so are not uncommon to see in the seajunk stores. There was a smaller-diameter model made and you see 'em in a lot of old wood sailboats, but this is Da Bomb. Looks real cool in the cockpit, too! If you get tired, you can use the boom vang to pump on it!

    Dave

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    McHenry, IL, but sail out of Racine WI
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    626
    Tony:

    Good point you raise. I had the very problem you addressed in the late sixties. Every weekend when I went out to the boat, I found an increasing amount of water and couldn't figure out what was going on.

    My experience is that those leaks start small and accelerate. It is for that very reason that I don't want the pump on when I am off the boat. If there is an inordinate amount of water, I need to fix it pronto.

    On the other hand, if the leak is massive and sudden, the boat will sink regardless, since the battery will be shot in not much time (the pump draws 20-35 amps).

    So the answer to your question is that I turn off all electrical (the main throw switch) when I leave the boat, figuring it is more important for me to know that my battery is fully charged when I return.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
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    461

    Bilge pump as downwind siphon?

    Prior to heading downwind this afternoon on my return trip to Santa Cruz, I was roaring along close hauled on a port tack. By my GPS I was making 5-9 to 6.2 knots with steady twenty knots of wind gusting higher.I had been below messing with my GPS and a chart while my self-steering lines did the work. All was dry below then.

    I ran dead downwind for a while with the main up full and a class jib. I know that I was doing better than 8 knots with the swell and wind directly behind me, but I couldn't leave the tiller long enough to check my GPS. I eventually had to head for Santa Cruz. With a gusty 20+ mph wind on my port bow I was heeled over to 40 degrees. However when I finally slipped in behind the point where the water was calm, I once again went below to discover that the cabin sole and lots of other stuff was drenched. My deck shoes, which I had left below, looked like they had been swimming.

    I lifted a hatch board, and the bilge was 3/4 full of murky water. When I had been heeled to 40 degrees, the water must have come out of the bilge and run up the hull to flood the locker beneath the starboard settee and even further up the hull to the opening at the forward end of the bench into the wet locker, which I suppose is intended to drain the settee bench. Unfortunately, this time it worked in reverse to drench the starboard cushion. The bottoms of the lifejackets in my closet were also soaked. Also drenched were my tools, fasteners and other goods stored in the locker underneath the settee. It was a mess.

    With the manual bilge pump, which is mounted in my cabin beneath the companionway hatch, I quickly pumped the water out of the bilge. Satisfied that if I was sinking, I wasn't sinking very fast, I headed leisurely into the harbor.

    After searching for a source, I concluded that the water must have come from something other than a deck hardware or hull-deck seam leak. There was too much water for one thing, and secondly the mess beneath the settee cushion looked a lot like bilge water and not so much like a fresh leak from above. The cowl vent on my bow was my first thought, but the anchor rode directly beneath the vent was dry as was the anchor locker as a whole. The V berth area and its raised floor were totally dry, as were all of the shelves in the V Berth and the shelves above the settees. The chainplates were dry. Only the teak main salon floor and starboard side of the boat up to the height of he settee cushion were wet. Even the pillows that sit against the hull on the settee cushion were dry.

    Since the lazarette locker fills with water when running downwind and on a broad reach, and on a close reach under certain conditions, I checked the bulkhead separating that locker from the rest of the boat, but I could not find any openings in the bulkhead that could have leaked water into the bilge.

    My suspicion is that the manual bilge pump is the culprit. The bilge pump pumps the bilge water overboard through the transom. The exit port is rather low on the port side of the transom, but above normal water level. I do not know whether that is standard or a modification. I do not see a specification or drawing for one in the manual, but the discussion about bilge pump installation in the manual makes me suspect that my bilge pump is other than original.

    There could be a break in the line, or the system could be installed in such a manner that allows water to siphon from the sea through the transom into the bilge. My bilge pump outflow is mounted through the port side of the transom. Since the port side of the boat was dry, a break in the line is unlikely, but I will check the line. After pumping the bilge dry and letting the boat sit for a couple of hours the bilge remained dry. Of course the transom is above water when the boat is docked. My bilge is normally bone dry.


    I would think that a manual bilge pump installation be made in such a way that even pressurized water will not flow from the opening in the transom into the bilge. Excuse the ignorance, but don't these things have a bult-in antu-siphon device? Tomorrow I am going to try to simulate this with a garden hose. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? Or does anyone out there have other suggestions as to how my bilge might have filled with seawater? I have read a few postings on bilge pumps on this site, but they did not answer my questions.
    Scott

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Santa Cruz, California
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    461
    This photo of Augustine's transom shows the Bilge Pump Outflow Port
    Attached Images  
    Scott

  5. #50
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    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    3,621
    I think the liquid was sweat.

    One perspires on hot days,
    but exceeding hull speed at 40 degrees in an Ariel causes sweat.

    Sink drain, maybe?

  6. #51
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    Sep 2001
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    San Rafael, CA
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    Extreme angle of heel might be the key, which you can't duplicate with the garden hose. The amount of water is also significant.
    Are you leaking thru the deck/hull seam?
    How about the dead lights or the opening ports? Water could enter between the cabin and liner, end up on the shelves and down the hull to the bilge.
    The scuppers by the cockpit from the deck down to the waterline, any sign of leaking here?
    How about the cockpit sole? Fore hatch? Extreme angle may have taken leaking water off at an unusual track.
    Leaking around the transom exit of the manual pump hose. ie the fitting?
    A newly installed access hatch?
    Water on the cockpit seats? Potential for water getting in here.
    Hose clamps ok? Like the upper ones?
    Water tank ok? Plastic bottle leaking?

    I've been looking at so-called scupper drains for 338. They are one way fittings sometimes flapper style, ball in cage, and a soft duckbill style like the valve in a head. If you find the culprit is the pump, one of these exit check valves might work. Do you have a sufficient up-loop in the exit hose?
    Last edited by ebb; 07-02-2004 at 06:37 AM.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz
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    190
    Scott, Sounds like a nice ride. Where where you coming home from?

    In terms of your water issue, I have experienced the same thing in the past. Our first wet trip was a number of years ago heading north to S.F. We arrived with the floor boards floating after sailing 16 hours straight with 25+ on the nose. We determined the leak was at the bow at the rub rail joint. Sounds like you can rule lazarette locker that out.

    Our second experience with water filling the voids was on a trip back to Alameda from Napa. On this day we had reported 40 mph winds and a huge ebb chop in the SF Bay. Since we were cruising I had left the motor in the well. This resulted in water pouring through the stern. With Lisa pushing the manual pump and Ernie using a bucket and pouring it into the cockpit we were able to get a handle on it. After getting all the water out and then moving much of our cruising gear and extra people weight forward we were able to raise the stern enough to decrease the amount of water being shipped. Plus it was an easy way to let Ernie and his wife Nancy take a nap in the v-berth.

    My point is if I was you I would take a second look at the lazarette locker. With the amount of water you described it would take one hell of a leak in the pump hose. My only other guess would be that you have no flap or check valve in the pump.......ed

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Asst. Vice Commodore, NorthEast Fleet, Commander Division (Ret.) Brightwaters, N.Y.
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    1,823
    I think you need a vented loop in the bilge pump discharge line, positioned above the waterline on any angle of heel.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    461
    Thanks to Ed, Commanderpete and ebb for all of the comments and suggestions. I have sailed this boat ninety times since I restored it. I have sailed it under widely different conditions, and yesterday's sail was not unusual. This was not a complete restoration since the boat was basically sound, and previous owners added a number of features that improved the boat. The bilge pump with its PVC pipe was one of those previous-owner-installed features.

    Replacing that PVC bilge pump line has been a priority, but not a high priority, in as much as my bilge was always dry as a bone, and my pump worked adequately well. The PVC line just ran through the lazarette locker bulkhead with only a bead of silicon on either side of that bulkhead, and that was a bit odd.

    Ed, in answer to your question, yesterday I was just out for a single-handed sail. I finally figured out how to tie the tiller to the jib sheet in a manner that will allow me to go below and play with charts and my GPS while the boat sails itself to weather in a moderate swell. I wanted to test my system under various conditions and various headings. When I reached the halfway point in the time allotted for my sail, I turned around and sailed more or less north to Santa Cruz. I was below a lot yesterday while I headed both south (starboard tack) and north (port tack), so I am pretty sure that the water came in when I was heading downwind, and I was, of necessity, in the cockpit hanging onto the tiller, while the swells pushed my transom around.

    For most of the day I was heeling between 30 and 35 degrees. On the return trip I was heeled to 40 degrees and clipping alone at 6.2 knots, but that is speed over ground. 40 degrees is not unusual for me, and this spring it has been the usual angle of heel due to the wind. It is not unusual for me to hit 45 degrees. Last week I was heeling to 45 degrees with a double reef in the main and heavy wet swells, but no water entered the bilge. This is one reason that I believe that the water came in yesterday while I was running dead down wind. The other reason is that I was below for extended periods of time while I was close hauled and heeled over, and water below was not evident. I fail to see how water entering the lazarette can get into the bilge, since at least on my boat the lazarette locker is complete sealed off from the rest of the boat and drains into the outboard well.

    Today, I emptied my menagerie of sails and gear from my cockpit lockers. All of the contents of those lockers were dry with the exception of one sail bag that is located on the bottom of the starboard locker, which was wet on the very bottom, consistent with the other wet things in the main salon. The port side was pretty much dry.

    Again, the shelves in the V Berth and main salon were absolutely dry as was the anchor locker in the forepeak.

    I pressure-tested the bilge pump line by inserting a one inch hose into the bilge pump outlet, and allowed the pressure to build in the line until it more or les back-fired and blew the hose back out of the hole. Don't do this at home kids. It will foul up the flaps in your bilge pump. After doing this three times with the bilge pump handle in various positions, I discovered that I could NOT force water into the bilge through the bilge pump outflow line. I did succeed in jamming the pump (a Guzzler 400) by blowing one of the one-way flaps the wrong way.

    I decided to replace the bilge pump line anyway, since this has been a priority, and I have ascertained that other than the flaps in the pump itself, there was no check valve in the line, the PVC Line has always been worrisome, and there was no fitting of any type where the PVC pipe passed through the lazarette bulkhead. Although I could NOT simulate the leak, I decided that there is a possibility that the bilge pump line was siphoning water directly into the bilge. I installed a bilge pump kit consisting of a new diaphragm and two new one-way flaps. I then removed the PVC line, which was a pain because I did not have a hacksaw blade. All I had was the saw blade on my very small multi-tool. I replaced the entire run with new one-inch reinforced bilge pump tubing. I allowed enough extra tubing to permit two raised loops, one in the cockpit locker and one in the lazarette. I haven't decided yet whether to vent one of them or not, since with the rail buried one or the other loop will still be below water on some headings, since they are below deck. I installed a one-way valve in the lazarette locker. I installed the equivalent of a threaded cistern fitting through the lazarette locker bulkhead. This was a gasketed fitting with threaded plastic nuts and gaskets on either side of the bulkhead. I threw on some silicon for good measure.

    I tested the new system and it works.

    To check for other areas where leaks might have occurred, I flooded the bottom part of the lazarette locker today to see if it leaked into the cockpit lockers, and it didn't. Once you fill it up to the bottom of the hatch that leads to the cockpit it drains into the cockpit anyway. I inspected both sides of that bulkhead. Outside of the aforementioned siliconed PVC line that ran through that bulkhead and one small hole through which a couple of wires pass at the very top of the starboard side of the bulkhead, there are no holes where water can come though. The stuff below that small hole was dry yesterday, so that was not where the leak occurred. The cockpit lockers did not have enough water on them to leak, and the stuff beneath them was dry anyway. I sprayed the entire bulkhead from the lazarette side under pressure, and no water came through with the exception of the one small hole where the two wires pass through the bulkhead.

    The boat sat all night last night, and no additional water entered the bilge. Neither the cockpit drains nor the sink appear to be leaking, but it is conceivable that the top of the sink hose might have leaked. I will have to check that when I am underway again.

    In 2002, I re-bedded all of the hull deck seams forward of the lazarette locker. I filled the screw holes with epoxy and went back to short screws after filling the joint with 5200 and re-bedding the rub rail with 4200. Frequently I sail with either rail buried, and on the week before, I buried both rails for some time with no leaks, and an absolutely dry bilge. Again, if the hull-deck seam were leaking, the shelves would have been wet, which they were not. The only area with no shelf is the starboard cockpit locker. So it is conceivable that a section for the rub rail that has never before leaked did leak for whatever reason. Again the chainplates in that locker were dry.

    Tomorrow I hope to sail again, so we will see what happens.
    Last edited by Scott Galloway; 07-03-2004 at 01:14 AM.
    Scott

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    461
    The photo below shows the original bilge pump line in the lazarette as it attaches to the through-hull very low in the transom. The section of the line shown in the lazarette is flex tubing. The section of the line in the cockpit locker (not shown) and part of the lazarette locker ( not shown) was schedule 40 PVC pipe.

    I now have a Nissan 6 hp four stroke OB motor. The Honda in the photo is no longer operational.
    Attached Images  
    Scott

  11. #56
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    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    Scott.
    Went back to your original post, and by your description, it seems you could have just taken a dollop or two under the companionway hatch, no?

    If the hatch was just a slight way forward, the hose test would definitely produce the wetness and spatter you describe. You can probably get water to enter when the hatch is closed all the way.
    Last edited by ebb; 07-03-2004 at 08:59 AM.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    461
    Sorry Ebb,

    The companionway sliding hatch cover was closed and all was dry below with the exception of the areas near the floor reached by the leak, and or water flowing from the 3/4 filled bilge. It is simply not possible that my bilge filled three quarters full with water coming through the companionway. I was very aware of what was transpiring.

    Today I went sailing with crew on a pleasure sail, and we reefed the main after about a half hour out there since my guests were not dressed for, nor interested in a wet sail.

    I was able to run some tests, although due to our reefed main were not heeled nearly so far as the day before yesterday. . I produced a leak, and you original inclination seems to have been a good hunch. The problem seems to be related to the cockpit drain on the starboard side.

    Things remained mostly dry below today, but after we ran close hauled with the starboard rail down briefly, I found a small amount of water running toward the bilge from the base of the starboard cockpit drain. Now, the valves on these drains are the Groco style rubber plug seacocks mounted to the through-hull, which has a teak backing block. The water seems to be concentrated at the base of this block. The block was totally dry when we left the harbor today, but by the time that I discovered the leak, the block was wet. I found water in the general area of the mounting block and nowhere else. It had run both up the hull a little way, presumably while we were heeled and then down toward the bilge. This was a very small leak that did not add appreciable water to the bilge, but then again we were only sailing with the rail down for a couple of minutes. I could not ascertain whether the leak was coming from the valve, the through hull or from the tubing. I took everything out of the cockpit lockers while we were sailing and checked for leaks coming from the rail or the hull deck seam, but all was dry on the hull and in the vicinity of the hull deck seam the toe rail, and in the cockpit locker with the exception of the immediate location of the through hull and valve. So tomorrow I will have to crawl down there and take a closer, longer look. I assume that when the starboard rail is down, the top of the cockpit locker drainpipe and cockpit drain fitting are below water level. I will attempt to simulate this situation somehow, however I don't want to mess with the valve to do the simulations whle the boat is in the water. The nature of these Groco type rubber plug seacocks is that you loosen a locking handle before operating the seacock. My experience with this particular seacock is that after you use the locking handle, the valve will drip for awhile, even while the valve is closed, so that complicates the simulation. To see a drawing of one of these seacocks, see page 382 and 383 of Nigel Calder's Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual.

    Alas, I needed to upgrade my bilge pump and related tubing anyway.

    Please find below a photo of the starboard seacock as it looked a couple of years ago, when I took the photo.
    Attached Images  
    Scott

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    Pascoe, one of those guys, made up a chart of causes of sinkings - by far the most, more than 50%, were related to seacocks.

    In your case, Scott, maybe the Grocos are ok but the pads aren't. IMCO backup pads made of wood or ply, especially ply, unless phenolic marine grade, will degrade after awhile.

    Suppose one could make an arguement for a seacock install that has some give in it - wood backup fairing. BUT 338 will have molded epoxy/glass fairing and true three corner seascocks bedded in polysulphide. Giving the thruhull support thru the hull with a thick pad for more rubber bedding I think is good. 338 will have flush thruhulls therefor building up the hull there is called for.

    When I get an assembly ready I may even consider dolphinite bedding compound rather than sulphide. Since thruhulls have to be considered a maintenance item, making the whole install relatively easy to take apart would be the way to go. If it wasn't daunting it wouldn't get forgotten. Something like that.

    Anyway, doncha love a mystery???

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Santa Cruz, California
    Posts
    461
    Ebb,

    Slight drips are indeed an interesting mystery, although an aggravating one. A bilge full of water sloshing through your lockers and up under your settee cushions moves out of the category of mystery into the category of horror show.

    And no after some careful examination and testing today, I am now convinced that the seacocks were not to blame. The bilge pump is still not off the hook, but since I installed a new kit in the pump and replaced the line and added a one-way valve in the line I wouldn't be able to replicate the failure.

    Yesterday's observed small leak (and perhaps the big leak of last Thursday) became easier to diagnose (at least I hope so) by unloading the starboard cockpit locker and discovering that all of the contents thereof were dry with the exception of my fortress anchor bag. I keep that anchor in its bag close to the aft bulkhead that separates the cockpit locker and main part of the boat from the lazarette locker. I also noted some discoloration of the wooden support board that runs longitudinally along the pegboard separator that is the inboard wall of the cockpit locker. This unfinished wooden board is the support for the upper shelf of the cockpit locker. Only the aft end of that board in proximity to the aforementioned aft bulkhead was discolored. The presence of water at some time in the past was indicated. Close inspection of that bulkhead from the cockpit locker side showed me that there were three places were wires passed though that bulkhead.

    One place is the original installation of the wire that feed the stern navigation light. That wire is run over the top of the bulkhead and is encased in fiberglass and resin. It appears that this was part of the original installation. Blasting it with water from the lazarette side indicates that it is watertight.

    The second wire is the loran antenna wire. It runs through a piece of PVC pipe, probably a bad choice, but the pipe is epoxied in place and the pipe is filled on the lazarette side with a white caulking compound, and taped. Blasting it with water from the lazarette side indicates that it is watertight.

    The third place permits a set of two alternator wires installed by a previous owner or an agent of same to pass through the bulkhead. This installation consisted of drilling two approximately ¼ inch holes though the upper part of the bulkhead, and running the two wires though those holes Actually both wires run more or less through one hole and the other is left open. It does not appear that any attempt was made to caulk or otherwise seal these holes. Blasting these holes with water from the lazarette produced something that looked a lot like a horizontal version of Old Faithful. The most interesting thing was that when the blast was not made straight through the hole, but at an angle, most of the water ran down the cockpit locker side of bulkhead or rained on the immediately proximate area where my Fortress anchor bag is stored and in the vicinity of the darkened shelf support board. Most of that water entered the bilge aft of that flat nearly horizontal panel that covers the section of the bilge aft of the sump, so that it would not tend to run forward across the bilge sump access hatch and through the galley cabinet and out onto the cabin sole. In other words, most of the water would run more or less directly into the bilge, and so a skipper would not notice the intrusion of water unless the skipper looked into the bilge or if one ran with the starboard rail down for a long enough period that the bilge filled to the point at which some of the bilge water ran up the hull into the lockers etc. This is probably what happened to me last Thursday.

    The other interesting thing is that some of the water runs forward from those two alternator wire holes in the aforementioned bulkhead and down around the starboard cockpit drain backing block, which is exactly what I saw yesterday while were sailing with the starboard rail down on a port tack.

    So, since I no longer have an OB with an alternator, I pulled the wired back through the holes. Tomorrow after the area has dried adequately, I will fill the holes permanently and leave the wire coiled and secure on the cockpit side of the bulkhead in the event that I later decide to use them for an alternator or other purpose. Actually I have been thinking about a solar panel.

    Regarding rubber plug seacocks, I will refer you to Nigel Calder's "Boat Owner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual. It's a wonderful book chock full of engineering quality drawings of just about every mechanical and electrical system that you will find on a boat and other helpful information to boat owners seeking to repair or improve their boats. Chapter 11 has a discussion of seacocks and lists the various types of seacocks. The rubber plug seacock is a legitimate type of seacock manufactured by Groco and other manufactures. You won't find them in West Marine, and I won't find them at my local boat yard anymore, but they were installed on many boats and are "true" seacocks.

    Now as a to the wooden backing block issue, I am sure that there are other materials that would be more durable than wood, but again, rather old wooden vessels are still plying the waters, and you will find wood backing plates on many fiberglass boat through hulls. As long as the fitting is well bedded, I don't see why there would be deterioration of the block over time. Now wooden deck cores are something else again.

    A young friend of mine once bought an ancient wooden sloop. Actually I think someone gave it to him. The poor mast-less thing had sat in one slip or another for years and spent a fair amount of time hanging on a hook off the Santa Cruz and Capitola piers. It needed a lot of work. My young friend had high hopes for it. His plan was to earn enough fishing commercially to restore it to sailing condition. Apparently, that plan did not materialize. I noted this morning that the local marine yard was cutting the boat into pieces. I just hate it when that happens.

    The interesting thing about this is that that neglected old hulk of a wooden boat was sound after sitting in the water with little maintenance for many years. Some of the mussels on the hull would have been eligible for social security retirement had they no dried out. Since they are sawing the boat into small pieces, it will be very easy to inspect the various parts of the boat to see where if anywhere the wood was failing as the demolition continues. So far the wood looks pretty good. The hull and deck cross-sections look to be very solid and show no signs of rot, with the exception of a few isolated places.

    I recently watched the same yard cut a Columbia Challenger into pieces after it went on the beach and cracked its hull. Other than the new hole acquired on the beach, it was flawless. That was one well-made boat. I always worried about the hull deck seam in the Challenger, but it was a well laid up cold joint and after forty years was a solid as new. I could find no dry glass in that hull or deck. All of the glass looked fully wetted out. Ahhh, but I digress.

    Please post some photos of your new non-wood backing plates when you have them. I need to replace some head through hulls ay some time in the future, and would profit from your experience with alternative products.
    Scott

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    3,621
    Scott,
    You're the Henry Lee of water spatter!!

    And the caution is, if you have a motor well,
    make sure it is watertight.

    The HUGE hatch (another potential problem)
    allows good access to said bulkhead and it
    would be perspicacious to isolate the ob
    lazarette from the rest of the boat with epoxy
    and glass and have propriatary glands or
    something just as positive to usher any wires or
    cables thru the bulkhead.

    The cockpit bulkhead on 338 was tabbed in place
    quite well but left bare wood exposed to soaking.
    That is a good upgrade. Waterproofing the ply.
    It will make future holes a piece of cake to follow
    thru on as the wood will be dry

    OK Capt, you take Augustine off shore, in conditions
    that would literally raise the hair on the back on my head.
    Not kidding!
    What precautions do you take with the side lazarette
    lids? Yhere are a couple of holes that would do a
    fine job of filling the bilge. And the cabin.
    .

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