And the real Skipper. Yep, he found the noise maker.
I have so much to learn still, but it sure is an adventure.
Thanks.
Wow--now it says I'm a professional! Jeez, now this is getting scary!
And the real Skipper. Yep, he found the noise maker.
I have so much to learn still, but it sure is an adventure.
Thanks.
Wow--now it says I'm a professional! Jeez, now this is getting scary!
Last edited by willie; 02-04-2004 at 05:23 PM.
wet willieave maria
Capt Bill,
That picture is of you, right? Well you look short enuf - and wise enuf -to own an Ariel!
How about that hanging locker conversion to the galley sink, pretty interesting!
But really have to ask why the waterline of the boat is up so HIGH! - looks like 6" more than 338? Water in the keel?
BOWSPRIT??? Now that is another kettle of bouillabaisse. T'other Bill, the big cheese, he might want to post a little something on that subject!
Last edited by ebb; 02-04-2004 at 06:04 PM.
ebby,
Look at first pic in "376 Afloat" thread. Looks about the same waterline as this one. My waterline is painted on the marker lines molded into the hull. Maybe we have the "beer boat" waterline placement. You know, when you get finished loading the cruising beer provisions, you'll sit quite nicely on the waterline!
Kent
Larry Snyder lives in Klamath Falls, Ore.
He had the original casting made for the mast step, I think.
Ariel #123 I think is still in Klamath Falls but don't know where.
Was once befor interested in where the WL is myself, since I'm adding a lotta weight. Nobody really knows where their WL is, I think. But take a look at page 144 in the Manual, that point on the bottom of that world class stern is a FOOT above the designed waterline!
338 has two incised waterlines, but both appear so funky I couldn't imagine them coming from the factory that way. The top one was right at the opening of the original OB well.
Last edited by ebb; 02-05-2004 at 10:47 PM.
C280's W/L stripe had, uh, flaked off...but the pacement had been on the scribe.
FWIW, once I hauled out the a-bomb and all the related crap, she sat up appx. 2" all the way around and 6" at the stern.
Dave
Wow! Amazing results with this forum!!!
And we're practically neighbors! Well, 300 miles or so.
Will see if we can make contact.
Thanks!
wet willie
Ebb, you've a keen eye. Yep, that's me on the boat, almost short enuf at 5'9", not sure about the wise part!
And the waterline is indeed about a foot higher on 'er. She wasn't actually sitting on it in the water, about half way 'tween it and where Prof. Alberg has it.
She's currently on Dave's diet, removing extras, chain, ballast pigs, and soon undergoing major surgery for removal of a yamaha 9.9 tumor. And when the temp. comes up, some letting of water from keel voids. Maybe we can video conference the procedure, and get input for where to make the incisions. I've heard of several proceedures...
Think I'm finally on the mend, and able to use a variety of power tools now, and other delicate instruments.
Spring is just around the corner!
Keep the faith!!
wet willie
Naw! I meant the kid with the squawker. Yea! Get mended and mend the bote! Yer pix coming thru loud and clear.
Ballenger Spars in Watsonville CA makes an off-the-shelf mast hinge that seems perfect for the A/Cs. The bottom plate is a massive stamping with the sides bent up at 45 degrees with holes for turning blocks. The top of the hinge that you would attach the mast to is also polished 1/4" s.s. The knuckles where the 3/8" pin goes are very nicely welded on. An extremely robust fitting. Cost me rwo bills. This is not the sheetmetal hinge with the curved hole for a sloppy fit bolt with 1/2 of the mast bottom cut off in a curve.
The SEARCH button up top will get you more discussion on this subject. There are other considerations. One being the cast aluminum insert in the bottom of the mast that you would use to attach the mast to the hinge plate with. I destroyed mine and had to get one fabricated by B.S. You will notice that the original casting also supports the bottom, the perimeter of the mast, as it should.
You could probably make one out of some phenolic tropical wood ply like the mast pad is made out of with a couple router jigs.
Use of the Ballenger hinge, which is a 1/2" thick, means you are changing the height of the mast if you just slap it on top of the old pad.
I haven't any experience, but it is pointed out by others that this mast hinge is not a tabernacle which has a pin thru the center of the mast section. The hinge requires that, when beginning to lower, the top shrouds are to be loosened a little to 'get over the hump' that the offset hinge creates. I guess the loosening is just a little!
It does appear that lowering the mast singlehanded will be a rush, so to speak. [dang, I think I've said too much again.]
Last edited by ebb; 02-06-2004 at 01:07 PM.
Finally got the bilge empty of water, and looking around, found out why she sits so low in the rear. Here's a pic...
Yep, it's CONCRETE!
And i thought it was just the yamaha 9.9...
fun fun fun
I'm glad the old boy who did it is dead now.
Last edited by willie; 02-09-2004 at 08:43 PM.
here's the photo. didn't work last time for some reason. op error most likely.
It starts just aft of the factory ballast, where you can see the 2x4 form going across at bottom of photo, back under the floor beam, to about 8'' from the rear end. Guess it must be a foot of so deep back there. Wonder what it weighs??? Should be a fun job getting it out.
Last edited by willie; 02-09-2004 at 08:49 PM.
wet willie
Captain B,
That access hatch looks just like 338s.
I think what we're looking at is the 'encapsulated keel,' the top of the lead was substantially glassed over at the factory and runs downward under the sole aft from approx the mast bulkhead to where it drops into the sump under the companionway ladder. The drop is about 8" or so. The whole skinny portion of the inside of the keel aft to the rudder is empty in 338, but the narrow space has been made to slope toward the sump. Probably with a lot of roving and/or mat and resin after the hull was popped from the mold. Probably at the same time they glassed in the lead.
This gives the ruddershoe substantial meat to be attached to. Sometimes, as you have read here, it was done a bit sloppy, but it makes the repair fairly direct.
Keep the photos coming!
Willie
Hey! What the.... I bet that was a surprise. I don't know the scientific approach to calculating the weight of your block but from busted concrete I've moved so far in my young life I'd bet you're carrying around another 80#. Quick, before it gets above freezing, drill a bunch of holes in the block and pour water in there. The freezing action will bust it into managable chunks like my sidewalks
Skipper Ebb, and Tony G. now-- and all others--
Thought this would help the mid winter blues--at my expense!!
Yeah, I wish it was the encapsulated lead. The photo isn't the greatest. If you look again, you can just see the eye bolt sticking up in the bottom of photo for the factory encapsulation, then on aft a little is 2x4 concrete form, the poured in readymix goes about 3 feet on toward the sump, where you can see a plywood form/dam going across, it's about a foot deep there, leaving a little sump area for the bilge pump. There was another bunch of lead pigs in there, you can see them sitting on the side.
The photo is looking under the companionway, all the way to the back under cockpit. Don't think there was any factory ballast there! It's definately an add on by someone who had misguided ideas. Must not have liked sailing on their ear! I'll bet she really performed well! I've always heard you should hire a professional surveyor when purchasing a boat. Maybe there's something to it! Wonder if they'd have found the concrete???Here's another shot, since you asked for more photos. Note the cassette tape by the lead--"Best of Patsy Cline". Hey, I've been trying to think up a name for her...
Well, I can tell by the way this one came out some cleaning up is in order today. Sorry. But if you look close you can see the plywood form/dam, just across from the top of "Patsy Cline" tape.
On up from there is the aft sump, about 6'' from concrete to aft end of keel inside. The concrete is over a foot deep back here. About 4'' deep on the fwd. end. About 3 feet long overall. Oh my goodness...
I tried prying up the fwd end, and it actually moved a little!! I'm still trying to come up with how to get it out. There is a cross beam in the way... maybe drilling and water would do the trick!!
Last edited by willie; 02-10-2004 at 08:18 AM.
wet willie
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