Reefing Systems

[Theis]

Let's see if this works better

I'd be interested to know what sort of reefing systems people are using with their Ariels/Commanders - and what their experiences are.

I never use the boom roller reefing that came with the boat. When I did use it was not satisfied - but I can't remember why.

I have two sets of roller reefing on the main, one at 20% and the other at 40%. The tack is secured with two hooks, one on either side of the boom, each mounted using one of the screws that secures the boom to the gooseneck. The outhaul/quick reef for each set of reefpoints goes from a cleat at the forward end of the boom, through the inside of the boom, and out, around a cheekblock located on the boom just aft of the clew associated with the set of reefpoints (so that the pull on the clew is about 45 degrees - 70% of the force being out, and 70% of the force pulling the sail down to the boom). The line goes around the cheekblock, through the clew, and is tied back to the cheekblock (so I get 2:1 purchase).

I often use the first set of reefpoints, but have yet to be forced to go down to the second (although I would do it in thunderstorm or other violent weather).

[reids]

My commander had no reefs until I obtained a nice used main with 1 set of reef points. all The boats in my sailing club had Jiffy reefing, So I installed the syswtem myself. On the goose neck I put a hook for the cunningham, and on the aft starboard end of the boom I put an eyehook. To the eyehook I attached a 22' 5/16 line that runs up from thestarboard, through the reef kringle, and down the port side of the sail to a block mounted on the boom. the rope goes through the block and then forward to a clam cleat with an eye ring in front of it. it is llos until you reef.
to rref I let out the main halyard to put the hook at the gooseneck and pull tight the rope led through the leef reef cringle, then ty the main with the reef lines permanently attached to the sail. Done while Hove-to, it is quick and easy, even in 30knot winds. I have had to on lake huron 2x last year

the diagram shows it qute well. For the 2nd reef though, you need an additional setup

"jiffy Reefing" It is fun for the whole family,

[Bill]

For an excellent jiffy reefing system, check the back of the Harken catalog. They show a single line system that can be lead to the cockpit.

[Tony G]

That's right, then free-up the foot on the main and add some full length battens, some batt cars, couple of blocks, lazy jacks and a jamb cleat Hey! wait a minute, that's my x-mas list!!!

[Theis]

Is the concensus then that a 2:1 purchase on the quick reef is adequate? Anyone have any more? Any thoughts on the angle between the cheek block/eye and the reef kringle? If it is straight down, it doesn' pull the outhaul out, and if straight out, doesn' pull the outhaul down. Mine is at 45%, but that is my best guess of what it should be.

As a backgrounder, I have a loose footed main so there is no slider under the kringle (maybe there should be), and that may make some difference in this regard.

I have found jam cleats for the quick reef very unreliable (maybe the wrong jam cleats), but a cam cleat might work. Frankly, once that puppy is pulled in, I don't want it to surprise me and let go when the wind is really howling.

I don't think lazy jacks would make any difference, and, in fact, might get in the way.

I too have reef tie lines on the sail. Although they pretty up the sail when reefed, they are functionally irrelevant according to the pros.

As for the the full length battens, I don't know what difference they would make. But what does make a difference is that the battens be mounted on the sail horizontal to the boom (SORC), and not perpendicular to the leech.

[Tony G]

Theis
If you want some adjustment of the outhaul when reefed you could mount a short length of track on the aft end of your boom for the cheek block to ride on. If you line up the forward end of the track with the reef clew, any position of the cheek block on the track would be varying degrees of lead angel. I think you would have to make any 'adjustments' to outhaul location(cheek block)prior to loading the system. Though I've never had the chance to use this system it seems like a logical set-up to me. If I don't get the chance to remodel the main on 113 I'll try it out and let you know how it works. Tony G

[Theis]

Tony: That is a great idea. If you do it, or if someone else has done it, I'd like to know what angle you use. I would guess the line angle would be closer to 60 degrees between vertical and horizontal at the cheek blockl than 45 (more downward force than outward force) - but I don't know. At 45 degrees, as mine is now, with a 2:1 purchase, the kringle does not come as close to the boom as I would like. But then with 60 degrees, although it might come closer to the boom, but the outhaul mignt not be stretched tight - and we could be back to 45 degrees - but with a fuller reefed sail (I'd like to have it as flat as possible). As I write this, it may almost be self adjusting, in which case a track would do little good - the force vectors would be largely the same regardless of where the cheek block car was located.

Does anyone have any ideas/experience on a quick way for tying/hooking the reef outhaul kringle to the boom, so that the know/hook holds the kringle to the boom, and the quick reef is only holding the kringle back, not down? Possibly an unused slider in the boom track and a reefpoint on the kringle.

A couple design considerations. I don't want to klutz up the side of the boom over the cockpit with sharp stuff that could injure someone in case someone gets hit by the boom. Secondly, it must be quickand easy. I don't want stand up and reach out to the end of the boom in rough weather. Tying reef points is about as far as I go - maybe a bit further - but that takes time.

[Tony G]

Theis
Here's a another lousy photo with the same cold weather excuse. Again, I've never had the chance to use this system so I don't have any first hand information as to its merits or faults. This is/was a Great Lakes boat from No. Chicago that was sailed ALOT so I'm going to assume it was reefed as frequently as you found the need to shorten sail. Curt, the previous owner, really loved this boat a bragged about how well everything worked on her. Of course, he was selling the boat. Tony G

ps He sold her because he bought a Hughs 38.

[marymandara]

That track-and-car setup is the mass deluxe way of setting that up, for sure! It's really nice as it lets you finetune the downhaul angle of the reef line, and allows for the logical fact that someday you may have a different main than the one you have at the time you permanently bolt a block in place.<G>
Dave

[Theis]

Tony:

That Chrismassy look, with the snow in the background is really seasonal. All you needed was a Holiday Greetings to go with the photo.

That really is a slick deal. I assume the cheek block at the end of the boom is for the outhaul? Soes that mean there is no leverage or, said differently, a one to one deal?

Lastly, you mentioned you picked up the boat in North Chicago. Is that the one that was owned by the Sea Scouts, and has the raised cabin?

[Tony G]

That little 1" block IS the outhaul block. I think I'd like to replace it with something with more leverage, bigger purchase, since we're thinking loose footed main (hopefully with full battens and cars(please, Santa,PLEASE!))and we'll need it.
Even with a new or recut main, I think I'll keep the reefing hardware allready there. It seems to be installed with sound mind and reasoning.
I bought 113 from a retired Navy man who kept her moored at the Great Lakes Naval Training Center. He bought her from a Chicago judge who, I beleive, kept her at the Chicago Yacht Club and named her 'Hindsight'. I don't know the history any farther back than that.

[Theis]

FYI, the purchase on my outhaul for my loose footed main is 6:1, and I pull that puppy pretty tight. I also have a slider riding in the boom slot attached to the clew to hold it down.

Thanks for the update. I used to be out of Chicago and don't remember seeing it in the late 60s and early 70s. But then, I wasn't looking for another Ariel.

[Brendan Watson]

The reefing method on my Commander's main is basically the same. The only difference is that
the 1/8" stay-set, line is run externally down the boom through small pad-eyes to the cleat on the
boom. This arrangement works well as the main halyard, reefing line and topping lift are all
conviently situated to one another around the mast step. Simple and effective.
As for the need for doubled up purchases or even winches on the reefing line, try loosening the main sheet,
dropping the main with the boom slide-stop in the middle of it's travel and then raise the
topping lift so that the reef tack and the boom are at near the same height, then haul on the
reefing line. Now, with the tack right down to the boom haul on the main sheet and behold a
perfectly reefed main. The topping lift and it's raising of the boom makes child's play out of the
usual, outhaul- tension, problem. As long as the gooseneck slide is under tension in the
middle of the track the reefed sail can be tuned with mainsheet, halyard and downhaul.

I think the sheave on a track set up is so that more ideal outhaul sheeting angles are available
for multiple reef points with the use of a detachable tack hook on a single line set up. I must
say I'm not crazy about the idea of trying to work at the end of the boom in a blow. The 1/8"
line does not deform the main in all but the lightest of air.
Merry X-Mas and Cheers, B.
Commander#215

[Theis]

I hadn't thought about using the topping lift to raise the boom and take the vertical strain off the reefing line. That way all strain goes towards the outaul. Good idea. I assume you ease off on the topping lift after the reef line, downhaul and halyard are set. Right?

The reason I don't have pad eyes on the boom is because of my experience with the boom inadvertenly hitting people and bloodying them (I was the one - bad experience) - so the reef line runs internal.

As for keeping the halyard taut, yeah, its great if the halyard will go up, or if I am not so pleased with having gotten the reef set that I only want to get back to the cockpit.

Thanks.

Peter

[Brendan Watson]

Peter-
Halyard tension is usually the dissapointment , if any,
when reefing the main. But you can try this- before you lower the
halyard make sure the stop on your boom track is in the middle
of the track. This way, after all is secured and you think you'd
like some more luff tension, for a flatter, de-powered sail-shape
you can lower the stop and use the down-haul. The 4-1 purchase
is positive when its blowing and gravity is your friend. This adjustment
can be done from the cockpit and is alot easier than trying to
re-tension the halyard at the mast step. I'm assuming our boats are set up
somewhat alike.

Cheers, B.
Commander#215