Fruits Of My Labor (A-113)

[ebb]

That is bulwarks. Great word, huh? Ebb didn't get bulwarks, after seeing your mock up sure wish I had. Assume you will not cut the scuppers into the original toerail, down to deck level.
Don't believe it necessary as volumes will still leave the deck and exit aft.

My toe-rail (extensions) are 1" at the top and 1.5" at the original toerail and will they were difficult to bend, they bent on COLD.
Used the deck for stand-up jigs and just used clamps to pull the mahogany into position.
I would predrill the holes for the bolts befor you bend them on. It gaurantees at strate hole thru the fiberglass. But I had real problems with some holes not ending up where they should have
and had to redrill holes with the bulwark already partially in place. I aimed holes to come out in the middle of the toe rails inside with I had previously filled to the level of the inside of the deck.
The hull changes shape continuously and the bolts often enough ended up inside too close to the hull. Just couldn't judge it from ouside.
I believe you must predrill your bulwark bolt holes OFF-CENTER so that they do not enter the top of the old toe rail at 90 degrees - but are slanted inboard. The drilled hole will probably should go into the fibeglass quite close to the inner edge of the old toerail.
I would definitely make two of three drill jigs (especially for the bow and stern where the topsides really curve inward) and try them out - easy enough to fill the holes in.

If you are going to have stanchions you can also design the bases to be part of the bulwark structure. Not only can the base be attached to the bulwarks, but also attach to the deck.

Altho I did bend on most of the mahogany toe rail extension cold, I did attempt to steam the bow pieces
for about 8' back in a plastic pipe steamer with an aluminum turkey fryer boiler on a propane burner. Built a jig to bend in the hot pieces but never got the front ends to take a currve. The plastic pipe was I think 8 or ten inch D 3/4" wall. It got hot enough to get the pipe soft and limp.
The trick is to bend the wood long and once it has set the curve then cut the end. But you have to waste the wood. I also began the cold bending process from the bow where the bow has the most radical curve.
I made it hard on myself by having a truncated section, rather than a flat section. Flat will be easier to bend. The slightly triangular shape will not want to go flat on the top of the toerail.
I did cove the bottom of the bulwark.

I jigged the whole job so that the right angle jig pieces (You may not have actual rigtht angle pieces
but custom the angle of your bulwarks so that they bend outwards at the bow and straighten up at the chainplates and back to the the stern. Sorta did it, maybe nobody will notice that I screw up ! !
But what I'm saying is that I had the whole rail bent and suspended over the toerail so that
holes could be inspected, chamfered, caulking applied, moaning compleated, bad holes filled.
Must have taken photos.
I mean I jigged the whole one side and used those pieces for the other. Used grabbers that pierced the top lamination only. A lot of holes but easy to disappear.

What I ended up with will have no difficulty having T-track lagged on to it. One inch thick bulwrks ought to be just fine. But if not, it would be easy to glue on a doubler 'cleat' to put more meat under the track.

Agree your design gets the green water off just fine without having to cut the original toerail.