My reasoning with the multimaster tool is:
1. The $40 clone from Harbor freight is so cheap that I won't worry much if I either lose it, break it, rust it because of little use, or find it doesn't have all that much use after all.
2. It allows me to try what it will do (and what not).
3. If I find it is useful, and it holds up, I win. Cheap, useful tool!
4. If I find it is useful, but it starts falling apart, I buy the real thing, I win, too. Because for just $40 I got to try it and learned I want it.
5. If I find it useless, I lose just $40.
I'm at steps 1-2 at this time. Haven't used it all that much yet. I'll have to wait and see.
The Fein MultiMaster is the standard that all other "multifunction power tool" are measured.
Price: Often the first consideration. Fein is at the most expensive in the $30 to $300 range.
My 250Q Fein does have variable speed. A dial that slows OPM, Oscillations Per Minute down from 21.000.
At 21,000 you can not see the blade accessory move. There is almost no movement away from the work when the tool is pressed into it. OPM is a prime consideration in buying a clone.
FMM has a 2 amp motor.
The Fein tool, not under load or working produces 85 decibels (from the literature). That is LOUD.
Gets louder when working.
Ease of handling the power tool.
The Multimaster has a 16' cord. It is relative stiff and not easy to coil into the case. But you don't have to be super neat to get the case to close and latch. Metal latches, good.
Case layout is also good with ample room for accessories. This is a most unusual feature in a dedicated case.
The case has four little toes at the outer corners of its narrow bottom. It hardly ever keeps standing when you set it down.
The Fein is 9" around with the vacuum suction device. That's a bit much for many people to ergo as a one handed tool. It weighs about 3 3/4 to 4 pounds. That's also considerable. You don't have to force it though, the weight of the tool drives it. It is also 12" minimum long. This may limit apps in a boat.
Since you grasp the barrel, heat build up can be a problem. It forces you to rest the tool. This may be a good thing but it may also mean the tool is under powered. My Fein MM heated up on a tough job. Clones can get hot. Some just by running, according to forums.
Accessories (expensive): I'm not too interested in the handyman aspects. A grouting tool is something that won't get used. But I have read that it can be very useful removing old polysulfide from a teak deck.
I tried the 14 grit rasp on fiberglass and couldn't see its use.
The triangular sanding pad won't hold the hookandloop papers on if not kept completely flat. The paper works off at an angle. The profile attachments also are a problem in that the supplied paper rips on the forms when used.
By far the Multimaster does one job well that no other tool can and that is to cut STRAIGHT INTO a surface, like wood or fiberglass (but not metal) without prior prep. Point and Shoot.
Bi-metal E blades are straight or doglegged and have teeth at the front edge.
One thing you find out after the first flush of ownership is that the blades are expensive and only Fein blades will attach. GOTCHA!
There are copies in the market now, but everybody says the Fein are best.
And the Clamp and Pin method of attaching the blades to the tool gets my vote
since there isn't an allen wrench to find or get lost. All clones I've heard about use the extra tool. PITA.
Grade: I think we can grade these tools on a scale from handyman to professional.
One new Multimaster is being sold as Marine specific. To get the 'professional' status, imco, the Fein would have to cut metal. My test would be to trim off bolt and screw ends at the nut.
My 250Q won't.
A multifunction power tool won't get used often, like a cordless drill will.....
But when you need it, it's the only tool that will work. A bitter $300 plus pill.
It may be worth while, after you buy your throw away, to hold off until a CORDLESS multifunction arrives on the scene.
Maybe Bosch will come aboard with a just as strong - slimmer and lighter - 30 minute charge 18V lithium multi. Can't wait for THAT one!
SEE google
Bosch PS50-28 Cordless Max Multi-X-SurfTalk
It's loud, just like the Fein apparently. The replacement blades are not cheap, but way cheaper than the ones from Fein. Some people say the Fein blades are better, others say they are all bad, the Fein included. I can't say anything about the Fein, and haven't used mine enough to say if the blades are good or not. I don't have any standard to compare them with anyways.
You need, as Ebb says, the allen wrench to exchange the tool. The $40 one comes without a box. the $70 does. It has supposedly 19000 OPM, a little less than the Fein.
BTW, Harbor Freight, even though their stuff seems crudely made in China (naturally), gives lifetime replacement warranty on their hand tools. It doesn't say so on their web page, but in store they show posters with that claim. Might be worth enquiring if it applies to that tool
If you haven't used your Fein, why not buy the Harbor Freight thingy and compare them. You can return whichever you don't like...
Unlike many people that have much more experience than me, and who I respect a lot for their advice, I don't always buy the best, most expensive tools. I learned some bad lessons, naturally, by being a cheapskate when it was a bad choice. Working with poor tools is awful, wasteful, annoying, even dangerous. However, on a boat I consider that a tool might get lost overboard, borrowed and never returned or rust in the humid environment, and I'm not one to carefully clean, oil and wrap everything after every job. I'm too messy. I'm not a craftsman by a long shot. I do my routing with a cheap handheld router, and it shows.
I have my share of real nice, made in USA tools, and I love them dearly. On the other hand, for rarely used or 'throw away' items I just go with what seems a reasonable cost/usefulness/lifetime expectation. Good tools are a pleasure to use, even for me. If the tool sits and rusts in some corner however, it's not a pleasure.
Aeropress is a tool for making a great cup of coffee in a unique way.
It was invented by a Stanford professor (so....?) and is made by the Aerobie company who invented the ring frisbee.
That might be cause for caution BUT we can associate the drinking of the brew
with great pleasure and good times - and certainly a necessary ingredient for break fasting.
It's a great tool to have at hand during an Ariel rehab.
Look it up. It'll make this description easier to understand.
It's a plastic tube that has a screw on bottom piece that holds a smallish paper disk filter.
After loading the filter put into the tube a measure of 20 second espresso grind - using a wide-mouth funnel that comes with the kit.
Mine is electrically ground fresh in a loud and ancient Krupps, but the coffee could be brought aboard preground in an airtight container.
Put the tube on top of a coffee mug, pour in hot water. Stir with the paddle that also comes with the kit. Then take the plunger which has a rubber boot on the end that fits tightly in the tube
and push the mixture slowly to the bottom.
The plunger also pushes a short collumn of air on top of the mix through the filter along with a the brew.
Hence the name Aeropress. Remove from the cup.
Unscrew the filter holder and push out a semi-dry puck of coffee grounds.
Cheapskate here peels off the paper filter and uses it again and again.
The kit comes with a stack of 350 filter papers.
Just used the last filter after four years of two-plunge mornings.
The company hype uses the word 'espresso' to describe the brew its gizmo makes.
It is as close perhaps as any $30 plastic coffee maker can come, BUT
only a talented barista on a $10,000 machine can make a better cappachino.
Using only esspresso grind coffee in this Aeropress is as close as any purista can hope for a really GOOD cup of fresh coffee to bring up the sun in the cockpit of the A/C.
You can take my word for it.....Scandanavians drink more coffee per capita than anyone else on the planet.....
believe me, there's roasted bean in me blood.
Because there is no percolating or soaking of the grounds - the water and coffee quickly strirred and pressed thru the filter - this brew is NON-ACIDIC and gets the best out of whatever roast you use. I do like intense concentrated coffee mellowed with a dollop of moojuice. Add hot water to taste for a regular cup of coffee.
It's certainly cheaper to press your own coffee. And you can buy and support organic, family farmed co-op beans. Hope so anyway.
There are parts and pieces to this kit. A lot of moves to make a cupa.
imco It's worth a try aboard the boat, but if it doesn't fly there, no better coffee can be made in your kitchen at home or office.
On the Aerobie site there is a page detailing that the plastic they make the press from is phthalate and bisphenol free.
My original antique model is made with polycarbonate, can't mistake clear plastic with a blue tinge to it. May have been rearranging my endocrine system these past years - there have been signs. But the coffee has been delicious, dahling!
New Aeropress models are made with another plastic "co-polymer". ??? What BS they want us to swallow, at least the company is conscious!
The rubber seal at the bottom of the plunger finally gave out. Couldn't make a tight enough seal to get a column of air to go through the grounds. Called up Aerobie, they sent me two replacements for $5, NO shipping. Can't beat that.
I'm no jingo, but this doodah isn't glass French press or chrome Italian steam or emameled camp percolator
- it was conceived right here in the good ole Western hemispere and it's all plastic, fits our life-style.
Time to move on, second cupa gone......
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(10/2012)Will add a new post below in the que. It has been awhile. A s.s metal disk has finally made it to the market!
Able DISK-FINE Filter for AeroPress from Prima-coffee.com
Jerry on another thread asks whether
the Aeropress makes non-bitter coffee?
Purely by chance I ran into Karlc's tastey essay on the subject at
google> How do I make coffee less bitter?
askville.amazon.com>Food & Drink > Drink
He covers all the points. And there is a bean learning curve.
Maybe it's like grilling or bread-making: quality ingredients, temperature, gear, experience, luck. And our own expectation.
But his article makes clear the mysterious rhumb we must take from bean to brew.
Karlc also recommends the unique Aeropress as our best bet.
Because it makes only one or two cups, imco it is perfect for a small boat galley
if you insist on enjoyable coffee. The gizmo has its own but simple learning curve.
Here is another site:
google> Aero Press Brew instructions from Sweet Maria's http://www.sweetmarias.com/aeropress...structions.php
Good PHOTOS showing the jig. Not as complicated as they instruct. You'll find your own method once you get into the swing of it.
Aeropress recommended 170/180 degree water makes too thin a brew for me - but it does make my beans less bitter. Bitter is directly related to beans, roast, grind, and how much time the grounds are kept in the hot water. Aeropress just naturally makes less bitter brew.
However, I use a heaping measure of whole beans and grind them to an almost espresso powder for ONE cup. Milk takes the edge off bitter.
If boiling is 212 degrees, I guess the temp is around 200 by the time it gets poured in for pressing. Dump in the hot water ignoring the blue printing on the sides - never understood them anyway. Wet the plunger and slowly push it down to the bottom. Unscrew the filter holder - peel off the filter - push out the grounds puck - and rinse the pieces. I reuse the paper filters until they are almost black and starting to frey. Have to rinse them and set aside to dry - which is another step. Always press through a dry filter.
Coffee house reputations are built on non-bitter brew (and a decent pastry).
A beautiful chocolaty smooth brew is like the search for the wholly grail. Or that distant island paradise.
It's all about how to get there - if it is there!
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Later edit, 7/3/11. Been focused on 'less bitter brew' since Jerry mentioned it.
Bitter is definitely related to water temperature. And I've been doing some 'tests' while making the morning coffee.
Happen to have a little GoodCook meat thermometer that sits in a pencil-like tube with pocket clip -
in case we want to carry it around in a shirt pocket. It has a small dial with easy to read numbers on it.
It's accurate because when I get it out to use, it's already reading ambient temp.
Slip it into the waterboiler's pour spout while the water is heating.
Not letting it boil and bringing it up to no more than 190 degrees makes non-bitter brew with my beans. Brewers state that water can be anywhere from 160 to 180.
Otherwise, by the time my Aeropress is in the cup and raised for the morning's first glorious sip it has lost its steamy aroma. So I have to nuke it 30 secs.
But that's yor science.
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Later edit. 7/22/11. This coffee press uses espresso grind to make brew. The gizmo isn't making espresso that you get at a coffee bar. But let's say it's more like espresso when just a little water is used than a good cup of coffee made with coarse grind. (In a french press, eg)
Making a good cuppa is definitely a luxury. I can't extend that to having an expensive onboard grinder.
Haven't found a 12V grinder yet, anyway. There are hand grinders....
Have to bring pre-ground coffee. This is where the morning ritual starts getting expensive. Unless I do my own grinding and vacuum packing I'm stuck with what the marketplace has to offer. Here is an online where I will start researching - seems to have a decent rep AND, for starters, has a 8oz can of LAVAZZA espresso-grind for $7 which is cheap compared to other sites. Cheaper by the case. I'll get a can and experiment. We'll see how bitter Arabica can get. (Nothing about 'fair trade, hand picked, shade grown, or organic' in the description.) www.espressozone.com
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an even later edit, 7/31/11
There is a little KYOCERA CERAMIC BURR (no rust, no rust taste) HAND GRINDER that'll grind fine for the Aeropress or coarse for the Frenchpress. Just had it recommended by a trusted source and the internet immediately brought up an aeropress forum - some of whom liked it too. Haven't tried it yet. Compact. Hold in one hand, turn the crank with the other.
There seems to be a couple $45 models, one slender and one squat. We want the one with the longer handle. Am of the opinion that the better cuppa is obviously freshly ground.
It's a match to the Aero as it is designed to grind two scoop double shot loads. Two cappuccinos or two large cups regular.
Very good regular strength joe is made by simply adding more hot water to taste.
Add the hot water after aeropressing or, better, add extra water befor putting the plunger in the tube (once commited the plunger cannot be withdrawn without sucking the filter up into the column and making a royal mess) and press through the grounds.
Maybe you can Frenchpress coarse grind in the Aero - never tried it, never will. The finer the better, because cheapskate thinks he's getting more out of his bean the smaller he grinds it.
OK, OK, to close this loop, now we really want an efficient water boiler!
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[Endless edit 8/29/11.
Aeropress is becoming more popular!
There's evena bunch of aussies on UTube purporting to show how to use this efficient brewer upside down. Waste of time. Here is a good video that makes a great intro to this brew tool's plunge into fame: http://aeropresso.com
The video there explains its attributes, which you have to admit are considerable for this ridiculous little plastic jig.
Phoned Aerobie twice today and talked with two gals who are completely NOT interested, for instance, in Coava from Portland OR which is a s.s. screen we can use instead of paper filters. Fantastic! Nor in the Euro hooplah around its product
There is the World Aeropress Championships - 3 years going strong - and this October takes place in Venice. First prize is the Bronze Piston trophy! AWLRAHHTE!
COAVA is a coffee bar in Portland.
They have a store where we can buy the s.s. filterscreen. $15. 1-503-894-8134. Be patient! http://coava.myshopify.com
More research on the Kyocera ceramic grinder reveals that a convincing and difficult upgrade shown in a long video for the CM50CF (orphanespresso.com) persuades me that the more expensive, better made, and more slender Kyocera CM45CF will out perform and custom grind to exactly what we want. Aimed at the travel market.....
and the grinder cup into which the beans are put has a cap, a cover, that the slightly larger one doesn't have. imco It is absolutely a requirement for two handed grinding. Unless your breakfasts are always tied up in the marina, don't get the topless CM50CF. The CM45CF is not in any stores & only one internet vendor in the US. I don't do Amazon or eBay.
We are sadly behind what's hip: I dreamt I saw the PaloAlto Aeropress, the new Portland made Coava s.s. filter, the Japanese CM45CF grinder, and two fat red silicone rubber demitasse cupnsaucer sets in a truly global trekking kit.
orphanespresso has the two fat combokit with another brand ceramic all stainless grinder but not with the upgrade disk. NOR with a mug to take a receive the pressing! Point is we can skinny the kit by not having to take paper filters, nor the bulky funnel, as we can load the press directly from the grinder. But we do need something strong to press into. What we need now is a nice bag or rollup to keep it all together. {'Ah dreamed ah saw a joe kit last nite, as fine as it cud be.....')
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Apologies to Ben and Mike - who have posted just below here - for all the extra bruhaha I have added in edits that wasn't here when they first posted!
I sometimes go to sleep thinking about how great it's going to be when I wake up and have a cup of coffee in the morning. Maybe I'll ask for one of these Aeropress machines for my birthday. My old expresso maker's coffee has been pretty rank lately.
I've always used a French Press when camping or on the boat. Easy to prepare and easy to clean. I always thought it was a better tasting and smoother cup of coffee than any typical brewed cup. I'd be curious to try the Aeropress, because it sounds very similar, but without the grittiness since it's filtered.
How did I miss it? Have the catalog right here....er somewhere under these pile of paper.
But it cuts a slot only 3/8" deep...
which I'm guessing won't accommodate the screws of a normal fill fitting - will it?
The fasteners might be outside the donut-ring (in the balsa core), or partially which would make it dicey to bore fastener holes.
Could oversize the screw holes if they were thru balsa, fill them as we have dissussed here, and redrill for the exact screw size.
I like your 1/2"-9/16' undercut, what ever you're getting with your method.
So IF there was no choice and you choose this 1/4" shank MCLS slot cutter, would the deed be done this way?
The main hole bored thru the deck to size with a holesaw.
Thru-drill oversize holes for the fasteners, where they have to be..
Evacuate main hole with slotter. The top bearing would ride on the thick top glass layer of the deck composite.
Block off all the holes from underneath with cardboard, seranwrap and sticky tape.
Pack with mishmash. Fill scew-holes with liquid epoxy. Cure.
Rebore to EXACT size of the fitting and screws.
Chamfer edges of all holes to create caulk rings.
A bit wastefull of epoxy, but you'd get an absolute - total isolation from the balsa core.
And no distortion in the composite when thru-bolting.
Minimal backing block needed.
If you used the holesaw with a pre-bored guide-block, the way you'd bore a hole without the center drillbit.....
just the undercut ring in the deck could be packed if your filler was stiff enough.
After cure use the same guide-block with the holesaw to clean up the hole, rather than re-boring thru solid stuff.
When I did mine I was lucky because my router bit reached back far enough to include the screws. I will not be so lucky on the thru deck fitting for the chain to go into the chain locker. Some of those holes are 3/8" from the edge of the main hole of the fitting and some are 1/2" (on the ends of the oval) from the main hole. So for that fitting I will probably do as follows.
1.) Drill the main hole thru the deck
2.) Drill thru the top skin only for the oversized screw holes around the perimeter.
3.) Use a forstener bit to clean out the balsa down to the top of the bottom skin at the oversized screw hole locations.
4.) Route out the balsa around the perimeter of the large hole with the slot cutter.
5.) Tape the bottom of the large hole so when I pack in the mishmash into the edge of the large hole ( I used a cardboard tube on the one I already did covered with celophane tape to pack in from the edge) it does not drop below.
6.) Pack the mishmash into the edge of the large hole and the oversized screw holes.
7.) Allow to cure and sand the top flat and clean up excess in the center hole.
8.) Put my thru deck fitting in place and drill the screw holes thru the deck.
9.) Counter sink the screw holes and put a chamfer on the edge of the large hole to create caulk rings around the openings.
So pretty much the same method you listed with a few minor deviations. I am curious why you would use clear resin in your screw holes. Am I missing something here? I know I still have a lot to learn when it comes to working with epoxy.
JERRY CARPENTER - C147
A man can succeed at almost anything for which he has unlimited enthusiam.
Jerry,
well, the screw holes are small so that adding fiber to the mix would not be easy. Milled glass fiber in small quantities. Also in our case with old balsa core I'd want the liquid to run everywhere it can in there, soak in. But I have drilled holes in the composite and had no soak in. Filled with liquid and the level didn't move.
My paranoid regimen on all epoxy work is to wet out anything that can be wet out befor I put in/on thickened stuff. I do it with lay up as well.
If I don't want it wet, I'll still wet out first with plain epoxy to prime the surface, but soak it up or in certain cases rub the surface almost dry with paper towels, before adding the thickened mix, or going on any next step.
The batch is thickened for the job of work, but some of the batch A / B liquid mix is set aside to tailor the thickened mix if needed
- but also to brush on the work as a prime. Filling, filleting, even surfacing with fairing compound, I wet out first, and with the same batch.
That way I feel the epoxy is grabbing some tooth.*
This step is critical for success using laminating epoxy in these extended ways.
Even so, if we have to take apart the work for some reason we'll find some spaces anyway. They probably come from 'too much' soaking in. Or inadequate priming! If there is true encapsulation, a few small spaces isn't a big deal. But for me the main point is to get true wet out soak in, whatever!
If the fastener holes are close to the hole for the body of the fitting, I can see boring the big one first and undercutting with the MLCS slotter
- then filling the ring. After cure, clean up the hole. Then do the oversize holes for the screws.
There might be a problem in drilling those holes straight if - now having that hard ring of glass and plastic in there
- the jobber bit for the fasteners might get pulled off square if it's trying to bore a hole thru half frp and half balsa.
Even if we sacrifice a forstner bit for the job and use a guide block.
Imco, before the main hole is bored, first do the oversize screw holes. Drill them and fill them and let em cure.
- then do the main hole to spec.
The fasteners will be isolated from the core even if the undercutting slotter nicks the sides or removes even more, of the filled oversize plugs. It would be ideal to have an epoxy donut inside that was wide enough for the whole flange of the fitting. Doesn't look like that can happen.
The final deal is that the fitting is totally isolated and highly stablized. And could possibly be installed without a backing block! Now, thinking about it, I can see fatter oversize epoxy plugs for the screws than other guys might - the screws passing through tubes of epoxy.
It IS the best method to stop the bore for oversize plug before it goes thru the inner skin.
Otherwise, for strength you will have to include a structural backing block for the fasteners. This way your undercut ring is consistant with the concept. And I'm going to steal it!
So, Jerry, this time of year, we might be quaffing an ale in a pub while rehashing remodel methodologies. Cheers!
And then a tour of yer boat! Good to have your photos!
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* Wondering if there is a problem here for the CASUAL READER: if these posts are confusing:
We're talking about problem solving using 2-part laminating epoxy. Laminating epoxy is a thin syrup-like material used mainly for fiberglass lay-up. It is THE main ingredient in a ClassicPlastic rebuild. By adding various dry things to it, it can be thickened and changed into various kinds of paste and goops. It can also be thinned.
There is another form of 2-part epoxy that is known as structural epoxy. Not meant to have any other material added to it.
Laminating epoxy is a very versatile and somewhat forgiving building material and, for the most part, rewarding for DIYs to work with - as we all end up experts!
Bet some people think I've hi-jacked the Tools That Work & Etc thread with this coffee-maker rant. Figured that ETC left the door open!
My old PORTABLE, $26, java-maker, the plastic syringe, Aeropress, is still going strong after I forget how many years. Had to get a new rubber plunger.
Sometimes I stop drinking coffee - but I always come back.
This disk ($12.50) takes the place of paper filters. The stack of paper disks (350 for about $.01 ea) in their holder are a major part of our coffee making kit, eventually become waste. My morning regimen included rinsing paper filters after use and drying them on the bottom of upturned water glasses to reuse the next day. Cheapskate environmentalist.
This stainless filter came about by popular demand - the makers of the AeroPress were not interested in offering an alternative to paper.
Used this metal disk filter for a couple weeks now and it is perfect - makes almost perfect coffee (at 190degrees.)
You have to learn to use it. It's slower than pushing coffee and hot air thru paper. Patience, brother....
It IS perfect for the inverted Aeropress method of pressing that translates more of the oils and bloom - that fanatics insist is the only way - to the cup. The inverted method puts the aromas and oils at the bottom of the squeeze - right at the filter - where the good stuff is first to come thru when you invert it over your mug to do the press. Quite logical, really. You get instructions printed on a card with your new s.s.disk to perform the reverse method. Reads like a botony experiment!
The stainless filter doesn't remove flavors like the paper seems to.
Sometimes the bottom of the cup ends up with some visible fines in it - but they are so fine that (my) tongue can't feel them. Down the hatch!
The first "celebrated" stainless disk on the market had larger holes and produced a turkish chew.
This is the one.
Don't make my coffee inverted - normal makes me a contrary snob.
This is a better brew, for sure. I'm a two cuppa. Sometimes later in the day I find my second cup
untouched & forgotten in the microwave - obviously the one richer cup by the new disk seized the day!
In My Considered Opinion you cannot make a better tasting cup of coffee in your galley by any other method. Even with paper!
This new, by popular demand, Able Disk Fine is paper thin. Be interesting to see how long it lasts.
As we might expect, when you go to the Q&A page on the Aerobie site, they insist using their paper makes better coffee. What can they say?
Purists argue that filtering thru paper makes coffee flavored tea. Ebb knows his cuppa is more robust and tastey using the new filter.
If the metal filter lasts in the long run, it will reduce the portable kit, making it more compact. The paper has no pedigree (do you know where your paper has been?), it could contain manufacturing residues, and it represents a waste cost for every cup that doesn't have to be part of the ritual. It is a smart upgrade for the Aeropress. [Right! Do you know where your stainless has been?]
On site Prima flogs an 18k gold plated coarse disk for $50.
Has to be a popular product for this kind of tackle !
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OK, later EDIT.
What alloy are the Able stainless steel etched (not wire mesh) disks made from? 316? I went to their relatively new site. They do not say - and I will say - that for real purists, and for anybody who swallows - what and how your personal coffee is made isn't something that can be glossed over.
You want to know if you are drinking dioxins & furans when you filter your coffee with paper.
You want to know if the stainless filter disk is food grade. I did see "laboratory grade" mentioned - but not on the Able site.
I obviously think - because I'm primed to think - that if important information is missing, that is a deliberate form of DECEPTION. The metal disks may be made in the US, but the metal roll the disks are made from may come from China, eg. Alloy stainless steel (even labeled 316) sheet made from recycled metals can be infused with poisonous rare metals, that can invert the immune system. Suspect are the paper disks that come with your new Aeropress, if they are specifically silent about the filter. Paper is notorious for carcinogens hidden in it. Makers of food related products have to be totally transparent - if they are not, then they are not.
On site Aerobie talks about materials used to make their product. BPH & polycarbonate are mentioned and pthalates are not found in tests done on the coffee their coffee making syringe produces. Were the tests any damn good?
Their very white paper filters are not discussed. Come Monday I'm calling the manufacturers.
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