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Thread: Fruits Of My Labor (A-113)

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  1. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621
    Hey Tony, I do mean the thin baffle plates. If they are supported - filleted and tabbed to the inside walls of the tank they will be plenty strong. Obviously they get thicker at the walls because of the tabbing and the coved bead of gell fillet makes them even stronger. You do need to have 'relief' holes in the bafflle so that the surge is broken up but free to circulate.
    Think I remember leaving the top corners open (just because it was easier to fit and tab - and slip the top of the tank (plywood covered on the inside with frp) which had a shallow groove in it to receive the top of the baffle.
    I opened the center of the bottom of the baffle to allow water to drain wherever it's going - and to aid cleaning of the tank. I put access plates on either side of the baffle through the top.
    Can't remember what the recommended distance between baffles or what volume of liquid needed to be controlled. Don't follow rules anyway.

    It's possible that water tanks will get fouled and need cleaning, washing, or at least stirred up with a pressure hose and pumped out. Sludge lurks in corners.

    FRESH WATER rots wood.
    If you put plywood in there, you could be adding flavor to your water.
    Remember epoxy is not entirely waterproof.

    The potable water coating I used came from epoxyproducts,com. It is actually called 'tank coating' and rates in the US as OK for 10.000 gallon tanks. But it's pretty obvious other private parties use it for smaller tanks. I think that is intimated somewhere in the site literature that the limitation is a quirk of the FDA..
    It is a thick white 2-part 100% solids glossy paint that is difficult to apply because it goes on so thick. Costs too much like all coatings and paints., I guess. But look it up. The company is in NH so there is S&H to pay for also.
    But I thought of it as a sealer against laminating epoxy. You can't trust anybody's epoxy to be free of leaching chems.
    Look at my nemesis Pest Systems (whose epoxy blushes, uses petro solvents and carcinogenic extenders like nonylphenol which might not catalyze fully when hard - and have formaldehyde in their hardeners. Why do you think I've gone nuts already?
    What's NSF? Not So Fantastic?
    LOL (lousy oil lamp)
    Last edited by ebb; 07-27-2010 at 09:36 AM.

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