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Thread: Tools that work & Etc.

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  1. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
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    3,621

    [sorry, this post is not appropriate for this thread]

    Chance, thanks for the input!

    I had laid in 3/8" of Xmat and epoxy befor I holesawed just the depth of the chamfer. Barely enough it turned out!. Then I vacated the old polyester for the thru hull flange with straight and V router bits. Then continued to holesaw the big hole thru.
    I have the seacock and a Whale foot water pump sharing this cubby hole (about 14" wide) between two minor bulkheads. The seacock in its own footprint is built up thicker with layers of ply.

    I chose to use Forespar Marelon. That means I had to use their nylon thru hull too. Because it is nylon, that is why I chose to install flush.
    That fitting is really not made to be cut shorter like you can with bronze ones. I called up F. to find out why the inside wrench ledges were at the far inside of the fitting. "These are from the mold casting of the fitting, not meant for screwing the thru hull into the seacock,"

    So I've built up the thickness (about 1 1/4") under the seacock with Meranti ply. I've built up enough that the thru hull when screwed in flush with the hull does not bottom out in the seacock. All the wood pieces and the hole in the boat will be sealed with epoxy. Am thinking about using a thread seal tape for most of the two inches of thru hull in the seacock. And just bed the chamfered head and the hole in the plywood backers in thiokol. Not sure how to manage this, but I don't want polysulfide inside the seacock.

    I think I'll bed the seacock on butyl tape.
    [ There is no good way to take out the thru hull once it is set in polysulfide, once the rubber has cured. It's stuck there forever.
    BUT a thru hull can't allow water into the boat screwed into the seacock. Therefore the fitting does not need to be glued in at all, Right???
    Think I'll find some beautiful butyl wet caulk and bed with that. Bolt heads also!]
    Am I missing something?



    The finesse is to get the backing plate under the seacock at exactly 90 degrees to the thru-hull.
    And the thru hull wants to be in flush with the bottom, not tilted any.
    Forespar instructions are for a very large oversize hole in the hull and backing so their fitting won't bind when everything gets tightened.
    That's a lot of wet rubber again!!!
    Last edited by ebb; 06-02-2009 at 07:27 PM.

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