Somewhere in this thread is a pic of these dorade boxes I tried to make with, then, the last of my teak. (rasberry) We can do better. Bigger, not because it's better, but because it will add less resistance to air flow. Larger weep holes because there is more water than I think 'going on'. Plastic because I don't want more maintenance.
I'm fooling with some designs that tie into the rise between the forward cabin top and the main cabin top in an effort to make the things less noticable. We scored on some ABI 3" vents a few years back.
...when do we get some new pics of Little Gull? I'm running out of ideas to steal...come on-give...
Tony,
Built-in, glassed-on, dorades sounds good!
One arguement might be that the structures would give you some excelent foot bracing while at the mast.
You know, instead of those bling stainless tube valets you were thinking of.
Once a hatch, then a seahood (questionable ), next a dorade box? That's the plan anyway. Something solid enough for footing, but, I'll keep the stainless guards/handholds for the dorade vents. Thoses babies are expensive!
We finally ditched the makeshift ladder I've been climbing up and down for the last howmany years... But I knew we'd have to shave the threshold down a couple of inches to keep that first or last step from being too much of a stretch.
Er....
Tony, doesn't this picture right above us here (264)
show a bump-up sea hood almost like 338s? It's a hatch garage - correct?
Mine is also pretty tall and that aesthetic Nag became agitated. But I prevailed!
"Form follows function, you fool..." Stuff like that.
Which may be the reason you're cannibalizing yours?
Takes courage to do something over again. Because we were SO sure the first time....
What I've been mulling over though is to use the height of my hood, there is a good argument to convert the forward volume where the hatch doesn't go into a dorade - two 3" cowls positioned near the sides and a single 4"D opening below in the middle. Would guess drainage would be quite efficient with the opening vent on the very top of the coach roof crown.
Buried somewhere in my notes:
Positive it was a well established designer that came up with the formula and drawings for a dorade that DRAWS IN air - it had to do with cowl size, interior volume, where the baffles are and how restrictive, and the opening to the inside. Some dorades work too passively.
Access plates and the cowl are big expenses these days. One idea I like is to install access/mounting ring directly over the hole inside - so that the cowl can be moved there for straight through air.
Watch that jig-saw! Beautiful works there Tony ----- keep her going!!
Somewhere in the piles and piles of boat photos we have an older, beauitful, European built woodie that has a dorade box just like what you're talking about... I think it might have come from the Abeking & Rasmussen site. Anyway, I bought cowls with way too high of a profile. That RBV would act like a bat and send me slack-jawed into the briney to recover the shiney.
Lower profiled cowls would probably work right there and the inclusion of vent protectors might even work as a good attachment point for lines or organizers.
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Instead of adding new posts to the thread I've just been using the edit feature to add new pics. Epoxied the new outer skin onto the dorade boxes this morning. Hopefully we will finish the inside layers tomorrow.
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