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Thread: Removing Atomic 4

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Boston
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    atomic 4 removed and galley remodel

    Does anyone have an inboard model where the atomic 4 engine
    was taken out and had to remodel the galley because of it.
    If you have any pictures it would be greatly appreciated


    John

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Rockville MD./boat kept at Annapolis MD.
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    168

    Atomic 4 removal

    The Atomic 4 comes right out.You dont need to remove the galley.
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  3. #3
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    Sep 2001
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    Rockville MD./boat kept at Annapolis MD.
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    168

    Atomic 4

    Unless you really want too.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
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    118

    Removing Atomic 4

    I came up empty using the "search" function, would anyone share their ideas and knowledge about some way(s) to get the Atomic 4 out of an Ariel??

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orinda, California
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    Newsletter Source

    There was an article in the newsletter way back in the early '90's (maybe late '80's?) where someone did just that. As I recall, they first had to remove most/all of the galley and then used a plank on which to slide the engine into the main cabin where it could be hoisted out. See page 56 in the manual for a little more detail. If the author is still around, maybe he will check in . . .
    Last edited by Bill; 03-07-2007 at 04:16 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
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    Thanks Bill

    I think that with a cooler full of Harps Lager, I will at least be able to get enough muscle power to make it happen !!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Winyah Bay, SC
    Posts
    609
    Hey Joe -

    So what are you gonna re-power with? Outboard, inboard, oars, ______?
    Kurt - Ariel #422 Katie Marie
    --------------------------------------------------
    sailFar.net
    Small boats, long distances...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Southern Maryland
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    262
    Quote Originally Posted by joe View Post
    I came up empty using the "search" function, would anyone share their ideas and knowledge about some way(s) to get the Atomic 4 out of an Ariel??

    Scott Airing had previously done just that:

    (merged here)

    With pictures to prove it.

    I seem to remember him telling me that he re-assembled the galley/sink/fridge complex with a few well placed wood screws that he could take back out and gain access again.
    Last edited by Bill; 03-08-2007 at 09:27 AM.
    -km
    aka, "sell out"
    S/V Beyond the Sea
    C&C 35 mkIII

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Narragansett Bay, R.I.
    Posts
    597
    If you mast is up, the halyard and boom have the makings of an engine crane (been-there-done-that with a 4 cylinder westerbeke)... or with a couple of jack stands and a come-along you can kludge together a gantry:
    Attached Images  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    118

    Smile Thanks everyone for the info

    Kurt, I'm converting her to an outboard. I have a post on here asking if anyone with an outboard model Ariel can give me the dimensions and exact location of the square hole for the outboard. I hope to learn that soon as the new outboard will be her in about six days. It's a Tohatsu 6hp, long shaft with alternator. The Atomic 4 I have runs like a dream, Steve Airing was the PO and being a former submarine Machinist Mate, he took most excellent care of the engine and installed an electric fuel pump, big ol' Balmar alternator and Balmar voltage regulator, AND electronic ignition. He took such good care of the engine that this past January, when the temps here were literally record-breaking cold, I never had to crank the A4 for more than fifteen seconds to get her started. I do confess though that I did have the water intake hose wrapped with electrical heat tape to make sure that I did not give the water pump a dry start. I sailed six times in January and the warmest day was 25 degrees F. The engine gave me no trouble. NOW onto the reason I'm converting to outboard. She is in a lake here so that I can sail and enjoy her while she is being made ready to go out into the big blue part of the world. I am very safety conscious and I do not want to have ANY through-hulls below the waterline. I am even moving the cockpit drain though-hulls aft to get them above the waterline and will be using very large, heavy-duty ball valves. I'm no statistician but from my own many years of sailing, rebuilding and "messing about in boats", I think that through-hull fittings below the water line are one of the absolutely most dangerous things.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Havre de Grace, MD
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    207
    I figured when the time comes I'd use a lever suspended off center, the short end would goto the A4 the long end pressure woud be applied by hand, giving fine control of the height, and solving the issue that you cant just link up centered on the A4.

    the A4 is about 350lbs if a foot and a half off the short side would reach under the bulkhead to the center of the engine, 3 feet on the long side would need +175 lbs force to lift (if my thinking is right) but being I weight 170 I'd ballast the long side.

    Just a thought.
    #97 "Absum!"

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Winyah Bay, SC
    Posts
    609
    Joe -

    I'll measure my outboard well in the AM and post those numbers if they haven't been already by that time.

    Also, check out sailFar.net, if you haven't already - it's full of people at all the various stages of taking their 'small' boats to "out into the big blue part of the world". We have some super-duper contributors over there, lots of good contextual information. More than a few feel the same as you about below waterline thru-hulls, too...
    Kurt - Ariel #422 Katie Marie
    --------------------------------------------------
    sailFar.net
    Small boats, long distances...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    118

    Thanks Kurt

    I have to laugh at your suggestion to read sailfar.net, I've read it so much I dream of it now You are quite correct, much good info there just like here. Many of the ideas I have got from here are going into Sirocco's remodel. I have not yet got the dimensions and I will be extremely grateful to get them. The one dimension that has me the most stymied is how far forward of the bottom of the transom is the back edge of the hole? Where do you live / sail? I am in Tulsa, Oklahoma (for now)
    Joe

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Narragansett Bay, R.I.
    Posts
    597
    Joe

    If you are headed out into the blue water, my vote is to hang on to your cockpit drains and put some quality 1.5" seacocks on them. When there's a couple hundred pounds of water in the cockpit, moving it with a bailing bucket while you are steering is no fun. .....

    cheers,
    bill

    Over the counter seacocks won't pass muster from a "subsafe" pount of view but these boats don't generally get below PD
    Last edited by bill@ariel231; 03-09-2007 at 05:19 AM.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Posts
    118

    Hi Bill

    You talk Submarine eh? I'll have the drains but they will be a few inches above the waterline with very solid seacocks. The angle of the hose between the drains and through-hulls will be about 25 degrees and it will all be done in inch and a half.

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