Commander #5

[Commander#5]

Hi all!

Work continued yesterday on Commander 5. I have just about completed the stripping and sanding of the exterior brightwork. Some instances took up to 6 applications of Strypeze to get all the old varnish off, but underneath the mohogany looks clean and unmolested. The wood rails under the companion hatch guides were particularly dirty and ugly; nearly black with flaking old varnish, but they cleaned up especially nice - the wood looked nearly blonde underneath after the repeated strip and scrape. They seemed to glow and to say "ahhhhh, thank you" to the air and sunlight. The washboards look like new wood, and the tall forward portion of the coamings looks beautiful from a bow angle - looking good. I'll keep you posted. DF

[Robert Lemasters]

Welcome to the fleet of Commander and Ariel afictionados. In this day an age of throw away everything (thats rapidly comming to an end) these fine ol' boats of charactor, tradition and seaworthiness will never be out of style.To bring back one of these classic glass Pearsons says a lot about somethings. Commander # 105, Njord, Portsmouth, Virginia. Best of sailing to you.

[Commander#5]

Thank you for the encouraging and kind words Robert. I am trying to work on her every chance I get, but unfortunately my 4th of July weekend plan got eighty-sixed by an unexpected death in the family, and I had to head down to North Carolina for a few days for the funeral.

My original plan had me off work for five full days and all my brightwork sanded and sealed with at least a few coats of varnish before returning to work on Wednesday morning; what actually happened is that I just barely got done stripping the last of the wood this morning and had not even a starter coat of varnish on anything before a storm brewed up this afternoon. So much for my big plans...

I have owned the boat for three weeks now and I am starting to find some of the hidden problems. For one thing, with the boat having been out of the water for some six years now, the wooden rudder is thoroughly dried out and has gaps between the boards as wide as a quarter-inch in some places. I know the wood will swell and close these gaps (to a point), but should I be looking at having it rebuilt if they are that wide? Any advice would be helpful.

I also would like to ask everyone if anyone has a template for the tiller? Mine had fallen completely apart and was in ribbons (when I just snapped it right off the head with a flick of the wrist.) I would like to replace it with an exact factory spec'd tiller. Again all help appreciated.

To sum up my weekly report to you all, Hull #5 is looking respectably aged, but she is beginning to take on the appearance of a boat which is being cared for and under repair - she no longer has that sad dull look of abandonment to her. The work continues and I am already prone to standing there and just gazing at her for a few minutes before getting back in the car and leaving her - with a smile on my face! I only wish I was retired and could work on her every day! Cheers all! David

[Bill]

I also would like to ask everyone if anyone has a template for the tiller? Mine had fallen completely apart and was in ribbons (when I just snapped it right off the head with a flick of the wrist.) I would like to replace it with an exact factory spec'd tiller.

The original Pearson tiller is a knee smacker. IMHO, you are better off with one that curves up to clear the legs of those sitting in the cockpit. Also, a higher handle means that when standing you won't raise the tiller fitting off the tiller head and risk bending the tangs. There are a couple of stock tillers sold by West that will work nicely.

[Commander#5]

Thanks for the reply Bill. I'll check out the stock tillers for a first-season quick-fix, then look into a custom ogee curved tiller for next spring.

Sorry for the confusing write-up - I opened my paragraph to talk about "hidden" problems, but got sidetracked on the rudder issue...which led to the tiller issue...which leads to the next issue...in which somewhere in there I should have mentioned at least one hidden problem. I know I shouldn't be so preoccupied with my writing abilities, but some of you guys are REALLY good (and entertaining!) writers. I mean it! It's not normally very easy to keep my attention and read through all the threads beginning to end, but I can go on reading until midnight and laugh my a** off half the time!

You guys are a lot of fun, and a goldmine of knowledge and experience to a tyro like me. I'm really glad I found this site (and C-005).

Best regards to all of you, and thanks again for all the great replies. Dave

[Robert Lemasters]

My Commander had sat neglected for some years when I purchased it. There were gaps between the rudder planks that alarmed me also; however, I was told that they would close when the boat was splashed. They did. I would never have believed that those gaps would close. In the yard is a negelected Pearson Vanguard with the same rudder gaps, the owner (husband of wife who owns the boat)has taken the rudder apart. I had suggested to him that the gaps would close, that was two years ago, his boat is still sitting there with the rudder in pieces. On my boat, someone, back when, rebuilt/repaired the area where the rudder attaches to the keel and did a fine job of it. Inspect this area carefully as there have been problems on a few of these boats in the past. I will be replacing the rudder bearings soon. I am also in favor of building/molding a new rudder sometime in the future for my Commander, nothing lasts forever. Rudder failure is a serious event and should be avoided at all costs.

[eric (deceased)]

I remember grinding away at rotted wood and filling in with at that time marine tex. then I used a simple 2 part compound after letting the rudder completely dry out.this was called "gluvit" at that time was inexpensive compaired to west system which was somewhat new and unknown to me.in my opinion the area of the hull that is subject to most of the turning or torquing forces is directly in front of the rudder shoe. just think of it --when you turn about you are throwing that fat-ass keel around a single turning point that is supported by a rudder post and shoe-and this has been going on for--well how old are these boats now---All the glass boats that I have seen----all keel types and sizes---seem to have an inexplicable amount of gel coat crazing in this area.and it may not be just surface crazing.especially on a large unbalanced rudder.even household doors act the same way---when people break in to houses----its usually the hinged area that gives way first.