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Thread: jib track placement

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  1. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,621

    bending

    Well, there is the POUNDING METHOD dis cussed on the WoodenBoatForum 'Genoa Tracks'.
    Probably will work for bronze (RigRite), not s.s.

    But at the end of the series of posts there's interesting photos showing heavy blocks of timber with T-track
    shapes cut into a surface and used to manually pre-bend the track. Again, this may be easier with bronze
    track, while springback could be an issue with stainless. Method seems quick and dirty. But not controlable.

    Still think, from the experimental perspective, that if we fill the T-track with strips of a bendy wood like elm
    or oak - changing the track into a 4-square bundle - it would be easier to handle when bending stainless track.
    This might work in a plain notch as pictured in WoodenBoat. Might help keep the track from getting elbow bends.
    Might work in the roller-bender using fitted plain channel dies. Worth a try.

    A bundle like this might be bent to the toerail by, say, clamping the center of the bundle solidly in place
    on the toe-rail, then pushing the ends in as needed for drilling and clamping. This will also have to be
    done incrementally because bundle ends probably will have to be overbent to get holes drilled into the
    center of the rail. IE, pushed inboard past the rail and allowing it to springback into line. Dunknow.....

    Can bundle be bent? Force it into a channel of 3/4" hardwood strips clamped on either side of the toerail.*

    So, what length of track we want....8, 9, 10 feet?
    Is it possible to make a doorskin pattern of the curve of the toerail, trace it onto a plank, cut the plank and
    reassemble it with the T-track in the middle?
    Maybe some routing to custom a form fit. The two sides with the track would be locked together with cleats.
    Something like this will be a little ungainly, BUT allows tweeky placement and removal any number of times.
    And clean disassembly after track is installed.

    T-track on an A/C needs to be bent into a fair curve of no more than 4 or 5 inches 'height' in 8 to10 feet. Seems
    feasible that something mild like this can be bent 'live' inside a 10" wide plank, maybe narrower, maybe
    even with decent plywood. Now that I measured it off the plans, track 'straight ends' will not be noticed at all
    - meaning that the actual length of track can be jigged. It won't be exact, but cheaper....

    Another thing, at the back of the boats here, might make it easier to install if the track is put on the deck NEXT to
    the toerail. Can block up track off the deck. Track easy to bend with clamps using the toerail Deck is solid glass
    (no balsa) along the cockpit. Able to reach fastners, even SEE them!
    Just tossing the monkey in here....."for the good of the order".
    .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................
    *Think this one gets my vote.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Garhauer's 1" aluminum GENOA T-TRACK may be perfect for the toerail on the A/C. It's twice as strong and 1/3rd
    the price of Harkin,etc. It has a 1" radius curve on its bottom which is perfect for the round top of the rail AND
    capturing the butyl tape caulk. It compact design looks like it'll be a breeze to 'incrementally' install. Garhauer has
    available s.s Genoa Track $$$ (of the same profile, I believe) but is special order. Seems like AL is perfectly adequate.
    Last edited by ebb; 05-08-2014 at 08:26 AM.

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