Pray for wind.

A fin keel boat will point higher than one with a modified full keel. This makes it tough on windward/leeward courses which often have no reaching leg at all.

The 110 sail will give you better VMG above a certain wind speed. But, you don't want to be under-canvassed

The boat likes good wind and can carry alot of sail. The boat will do best to windward in strong winds when the other boats have to sail fat because of chop and you can power through with momentum.

Some things to try:

Get clear air at the start. You will get rolled by faster boats and dirty air is deadly. Tack away early if necessary. Sail your own race.

Keep tacks to a minimum since it may take longer to get back up to speed. Overstand the mark a little. Coming out of a tack build up speed before sheeting all the way in. The faster you go, the faster the wind and the higher you can point.

Beating to windward is all about the helmsman. There is a very narrow groove between pinching and being overtrimmed, which changes with every lift and header. Consider getting a tiller extension so you can sit forward enough to read the telltales.

You need enough halyard/luff tension going upwind. Leech cupping or fluttering is also bad.

You want as little rudder deflection as possible. Consider reefing even if noone else is reefed to reduce weather helm. Reefing also helps to flatten an otherwise baggy mainsail.

The problem with the cabintop jib tracks on the Commander is getting a good lead to the primary winches. A track on the deck is going to have a similar problem getting the sheet around the coaming. I've been thinking about doing it, although I have a furling genoa.

Lots of factors go into windward performance. But, the bottom line is that you won't point as high as most other boats and you'll go slow trying.