Anchor roller

[c_amos]

FWIW,

I went with a Windline URM-3;



It is probably overkill, as it is their largest roller, with over 18" of channel. I wanted to have a lot of metal in contact with the deck to distribute the stress. I have made an oak mount for it, that is wrapped in fiberglass and epoxied to the deck on a bed of thickened epoxy so there are no gaps.

I just put the third coat of thickened epoxy on top of it and the toe to build them up equal across their length. My plan is to drill holes for 5 3/8" carriage bolts (not looking forward to this).

The backing plate will be glass covered oak, bedded with epoxy to meet the curve of the deck. I will have aluminum plate under the oak.

I intended to take pictures of the peice of oak... but forgot. Will take some shots once the project is put together.

[mbd]

Sheesh Craig! You've been on a project blitz! Kudos from those of us who can't even manage to get a deck job done.

BTW, we can't wait to see your gallery spread of "the new" Faith with all the bling blings and shiny things. (jab jab)

[Robert Lemasters]

The wood trim toe rails, wow, thats another project I have had in mind. How was that done and what materials were needed. I need to trim up my toe rails they were repaired after Isabel the best I could do but the wooden ones look great!

[dasein668]

How was that done and what materials were needed.

Everything you ever wanted to know about Glissando but were afraid to ask... on his website triton381.com.

Here's a direct link to building the toerail.

[c_amos]

Boat is on the hard,

Many projects coming together.... this one still in the thinking stages.

I really like s/v Mirador's set up with regard to the anchor rode riding on an attachment point below the bow.

I am considering drilling a 3/8" hole through the center of my bow a few inches above the waterline and mounting one of those s/s eyes like a trailer Sailor might have.

My research shows that such an arrangement (with proper backing) should handle a #2500 pull. Even if it were to fail the rode would still be attached to the boat and running over the roller.

It seems to me that there are a couple advantages to this;

Running a 'snubber' to the rode secured to this point is a strong, arrangement, allowing the boat to effectively be tethered by it's waterline (rather then a point 3' off of the water). This would also take the stress of of the roller (see above posts).

The decrease of ~ 3' of height shortens the swing circle appreciably.

In 5' of water, 7:1 scope requires 56' of rode and produces a 82' swing circle with the rode coming off of the bow.

The same 5' of water 7:1 scope could be obtained by using 35' of rode and the swing circle drops to something less then 60' (less because the attachment point is now not only lower, but slightly aft of the bow.)

With my Manson on 3:1, I could park in as little as a 40' patch or water with such an arrangement....

[mbd]

BTW, we can't wait to see your gallery spread of "the new" Faith with all the bling blings and shiny things. (jab jab)

...still waiting.

[mbd]

Creative idea, although I could see it being a real pain to attach and disconnect the rode from a point that low up and under your bow. Perhaps it could still be attached on the deck, then run through some easy-to-attach hardware on the bow eye? you'd still get the benefit of your reduced scope and low attachment point.

Not a bad idea for a mooring setup either. It would keep the pennant from fouling with the anchor roller and stem setup if it gets nasty out...

[c_amos]

I have 50' of 5/16" high test chain*, and was planning to use a snubber with a hook. My thinking is that I will leave the snubber made up to the eye, and hook to the chain as it goes over the roller. I don't know how long to make the snubber, but if it were, say 15' (open to suggestions) this set up would work for about the first 65' of rode. If I needed to secure it to the rode I would probably try something like a long rolling hitch (again open to suggestions).



* I know this is TOO big, and TOO long for an Ariel. I bought it for a good price a couple years ago, and having gone back and forth I have decided to go ahead and use it. Since I know you are wondering, it weighs #60 per my bathroom scale.

[ebb]

Been lookin at eyebolts too, Craig:
While 316 is supposedly not as strong as 304, it is the only common grade that should be used when constantly exposed to saltwater.

McMasterCarr (not the cheapest online hardware store, but certainly the fastest) has a couple of shouldered 316 bolts you might be interested in. They are not threaded all the way to the shoulder which imho is important because you would not have a machined thread-cut exposed to the salt. Would invite deadly crevis corrosion. The thread would be way inside where it belongs.
5/8'-11 4.5" (3500# working load - $41.70) and a 3/4-10 4.5" with an inside eye of 1.5" rated at 5000 - 10,000# working load - $51.55. Some insurance in that one!

I believe ss would have a limited life on the prow* of a saltwater Ariel. Think that a silicon bronze eye bolt or other fitting far better. I believe 1/2" eye bolts can be found at Bristol Bronze, but I don't think they would be rated for the full weight of the Ariel. They may have a pattern for a larger shouldered eye bolt they could cast and have threaded for you to your specs. $$$
With silicon bronze you will not have the unseen crevis corrosion that happens with ss. If you talk with Bristol specify SILICON BRONZE. There must be other foundrys around that could do such a simple fitting.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
* We know that ss thrives in oxygen because it can develop the oxide film that protects it. Is there an arguement that a 316 eyebolt on the stem of the Ariel is actually in an ideal situation? Active saltwater has a lot of oxygen in it....

[c_amos]

Just thought I would give a post cruise update on the Rube Goldberg anchor set up we settled on.

Just a recap, I had removed the starboard chock, and beefed up the deck with a glass/epoxy coated oak plank to build a level platform for a windline URM-3 (or was it URM4, which ever is bigger) anchor roller. I backed that with a very large backing plate, and 5 5/16 bolts. The roller had almost enough overhang to prevent any contact with the Manson Supreme anchor when it was brought up.... will add ss plate to the shipped up area under the roller in the future.

The roller was on the short list of the best mods. It made it easy to bring up the anchor which was always well set (can not say enough good about that anchor). We used 55' of 5/16" ht, and even with it all out the roller made it not too bad to bring up.

The snubber was attached to the eye bolt just above the waterline. It was a little tough to reach, Rose could not stretch long enough to disconnect it when she brought the hook up, but leaving the snubber made fast to the eye was no big deal if not entirely bristol.

We used a peice of small stuff to lash the end of the chain to the bit, or to secure the anchor on deck when underway. It worked well, and never sliped.

When in really protected anchorage, like a creek or way up an inlet we would skip the snubber and just make the chain up to the bit with the small stuff.

Useing the snubber at the waterline allowed us to really take advantage of the Mansons short scope abilities. It is a good modification, that I would recommend. The only change I would make would be to use a better peice of hardware then I used. Although rated at 2500#, My 'bow eye' gives the boat the trailer sailor look. Something exotic like ebb would come up with would no doubt be more shippy, and stronger to boot.

Here is a picture, I thought I had one with the deck painted and the bow cleats installed but I guess I did not take one.. too bad as now after 2500nm of cruising things don't look quite so 'fresh' somehow...

[Tim D.]

What do you think about making a bridle snubber off of your bow cleats?

[CapnK]

Hey - dat bote ain't got one o' dem pulpits, needer...

Seems like I have seen someone that was using the eye bolt technique, who had a small block there that stayed attached. That way they could just pull the rode down to the eye bolt location. Make sense? I can think of several drawbacks, but it would make the process easy.



(Uh-oh! I've successfully combined into one topic, two of the greatest argument-causers of all time, between sailors:

Roller furling for anchors. )

[ebb]

Gee looks kinda SPARSE up there.
No pulpit that's another thread.

But to rig any kind of snubber or bridle you need more chocks and cleats! No?

Pictographs are harder and harder to find on g**gle these days. But for an estuary set up look at this and please comment on it:

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/images/Snubber.gif
[find 10 improvements you can make in 10 seconds time limit]


Here's a very interesting cruiser version (without pix, sorry)

http://www.ventanasvoyage.com/anchor_bridle.htm

Sounds like infinite control in any weather and all adjusted from the cockpit too!!!

[Tim D.]

Well, I know Faith DOES have the cleats, because that is where I got the idea for mine

And Ebb, that first link/pic is what I had in mind.

Tim

[c_amos]

Hey - dat bote ain't got one o' dem pulpits, needer...

........(Uh-oh! I've successfully combined into one topic, two of the greatest argument-causers of all time, between sailors:

Roller furling for anchors. )

I might have known I would get a ration for posting that picture....

Here is one to give a better idea of the set up. It is neither a good picture, nor are things quite as bright and shiny as they were about 2500 miles ago....