Tiller Yoke replacement

[Bogle]

Because Commander #92's tiller yoke is broken, I am considering Bristol Bronze part BB3101. Can someone confirm this will fit onto the existing rudder head. I would prefer to not replace that part as it appears to be in good condition.

[ebb]

Yes, that kinda looks like a replica of our 4.5lb monster.


MAY BE OF INTEREST:

My tiller-yoke varies at the narrow end from +1 3/4 to -1 3/4".
Inside (where the wood goes) it's 1 3/8" wide and 1 1/4" deep.
The fat end, where the head hinges on a 3/8" bronze bolt, it's
2 1/4" outside, and 1 3/4" wide inside where the rudder head
tightly fits. Yoke 8 1/2" long.
Head is too complicated to express with measurements, but
it could be done. The head is arse backwards in the drawing.

This drawing is WRONG according to the rudderhead in
my possession. Imagine swinging the rudderhead in the
diagram closed in its housed position... The socket that
fits over the rudder shaft end will here be positioned
coming out of the top of the fitting! The tiller stop "to
keep it from continuing down to the deck" is accessed
only when tillerhead is fully housed in a 'closed' position.

That flange
(in the drawing under the two letters in BB 3901)
should be bearing on the inside of the flat top. Rounded
top of the head casting is what we should see in this
open position upside down drawing - but rudder head is
flipped. That flange will be seated against the under
side of the flat top between the hinge arms of the yoke.
However, the rudder head in the picture is so wonkus
inaccurate that we can't even be sure what's depicted
is merely a confused doodle of our original fitting.
Looking at the drawing,
if we mentally move the rudderhead fitting (BB3901) around and
inside the yoke, that flange under the BB in the drawing is what
a functioning tiller yoke (with its tiller) rests on when the tiller is
down. The drawing figure cannot be repositioned correctly,
because the artist was very confused. So you better call Roger up.
Bristol Bronze. 1-401-625-5224, ask if anything's changed.
Simple thing to say is: If the head shown in the drawing is swung
180 into the yoke (which supposedly would be letting the tiller
down into its streering position...) the drawing shows that the
socket connecting rudder-head-to-rudder-shaft would point up to
the sky from the top of the Yoke. No joke.

Point being, the rudder head sits stationary (except for moving
- but hopefully firmly attacted - with the rudder.) But it's the tiller
yoke that does all the moving (up, down and all side ways).


When you buy it, if you find the tiller yoke and head to be a true
casting of the original, you may find the head fits a bit loose
pearched on the top of bronze shaft.
Someone once posted here that he used (4mil) aluminum from a
Pepsi can as a shim to tighten up the free-fit.
McMaster-Carr has $$bronze shim material. 316 is OK. $10.
The 1" 5/16" hexhead MS that is threaded into the thicker side
of the split socket head, looks like it is there to squeeze the two
halves tight together, doesn't really do that too well. Therefor
need for shim material. Approx shim size: .75"x2.75"


FORUM UPGRADE
You may also notice that there is nothing in the design that
actually holds the rudderhead onto the rudderpost. Except its
great weight. In the back of the head there are two #10-24
hex socket set screws that, when mounted, push the insert key
into matching rudder post keyway. They are in the back angled
down with the slant of the rudder tube. Often forgot in rudder
disassembly. We probably need a mirror to set the set screws.
These don't hold the head & tiller assembly on the rudder post.

Some guys have threaded two extra set screws (suggest 1/4-20)
thru opposite sides of the socket and countersink* drill points
into the post. While not hugely strong, it probably is enough to
ensure no accidental lifting off of the entire steering system.

* TIP: Pre drill the socket tap holes (#7) using the vise. With the
split in the rudder head and the keyway at north and south, drill
the tap holes east and west, at 90 & 270 degrees in the center
of the space provided thru the collar of the socket.

. Do not tap holes yet.

. Assemble on the rudder shaft (in the boat).

. Use the same #7 tap drill bit to drill countersinks into the rudder
shaft - only as deep as the set screw cone points - with rudder
(but no tiller yet) carefully squared up and temporarily clamped in
the cockpit. When you take it apart to thread tap holes (in vise)
pick drill tailings off rudder post.
'316 High Hold Cone Point Set Screws' McMaster-Carr

The oversize set screws also help keep wobble from happening
- which occurs because a loose key will damage the softer bronze
keyway in the head. Not to overtighten these setscrews.


If using a laminated tiller, consider bolting through the flat(top) of
the yoke - as others have done, perpendicular to lams - instead of
using predrilled holes in the side of the yoke - that create a zipper
effect forcing holes sideways thru glue lines.
Use fender washers under the nuts.


Bill has a new acetal sleeve bearing that fits in the rudder-tube, and
new O-rings available at cost. Replacing the old will also help
reduce slop in the steering. And water squirting into the cockpit
thru a worn bearing. Use Tefgel on everything.


Interesting that the Tiller-Yoke BB3101, $215,
and the Rudder Head BB3901, $245, are priced separately.
Assume if you are replacing you might be able to purchase yoke
or head detatched. This would dramatically reduce your cost if
you only need one of the two. However, rudder head closely
match-fits yoke arms & bolt. Be surprising if available separately.

Check keyway in head to see if it can hold a key securely. Know
of only one permanent fix for a worn keyway -- costs $245 + S&H.



Interested in hearing what happens. Good luck.