Just got the boat from my brother. I'm glad land rover's came with a 12 cylinder twin turbo diesel in 2000. What a load! My plan is to get this boat in a sailing condition soon. Anyone got any free time come on over, I'm in North alabama.
Last edited by mikeroth; 04-28-2007 at 01:50 PM.
Reason: add pics
I would sit back in there and check out whether there should be thru bolts thru the compression uprights in the corners of the doorway. That would lock those babies in.
Original Ariels also have cross bracing on that bulkhead that spreads the load outward on the V-berth seats.
However on the cabin side the beam looks well supported using the bulkhead.
Keep an eye on it, and maybe add back that extra bracing on the V-berth side of the wall sometime. This is imho.
Of course if the bulkhead was rebuild and everything is now epoxied together......
it's hard to tell sitting here in California!
I launched the Ariel yesterday on the Tennessee River. Here's a few pics.
I still have some work to do, but I'm sailing between work now.
I have some stains on the main sail, any ides on how to remove stains??
Here are the cleaning instructions a sail maker gave me:
Lay out a big poly tarp on level ground - spread your sail out on the tarp. With a grease free, medium plastic bristle brush and 5 gal. pale with a solution of dish soap (joy) and liquid bleach (edit: not sure how much bleach) - give each side of your sails a vigorous scrub - rinse clean and hang on a line to dry. Be sure the sails are completely dry before flaking and storing.
Don't know if it'll work on stains, but I suspect the bleach would certainly help. (Ebb or someone else may know of some natural and friendlier cleaner to use instead of bleach - maybe he'll pipe in?)
The best sails in the universe are made by Carol Hasse & Co.
She says, like you, wash them on a smooth surface. Try not to walk on them.
Use mild soap solution and fresh water. Rinse thoroughly until ALL soap is gone.
Remove oil with small amounts of lighter fluid
"To remove mildew sailcloth manufacturers recommend a highly dilute solution of Sodium Hypochlorite(3-5%). Because it is toxic to you and the environment, we (Port Townsend Sails) object to the use of bleach except as a last resort. We have also heard and common sense leads us to concur that bleach strips the coating from thread and leaves stitching vulnerable to UV damage..
Never use bleach on Nylon or laminated sails!
A hot tip for cleaning sails from PT Sails staff:
Dilute 2TBLS Woolite and 1-2 cups vinegar in 1 gallon water. Some of our customers have had great luck with this solution."
The above in quotes is a direct quote.
Hang and fully dry and loosely fold sails. And store them in a well-ventilated place away from heat.
Mold/mildew is a live organism that eats cellulose fibers. It has to be Killed. Bleach kills everything. (Of course Dacron sails are polyester fabric - so the molds are living on what you stored the sails with when they were last put away, moisture, vegetable particles in the air, and locker fug.)
Woolite (just another petroleum based detergent) in the small quantity in the above formula is probably fairly harmless. It is made from alcohol ethoxy sulfate that actually is nonylphenol ethoxylate which is an endocrine disruptor that stimulates estrogen production.
The assumption of the cleaning instructions is that the mildew is active.
Old and dried mold we're mostly out of luck!!! I would try steam cleaning though. There are small steam cleaners appearing on the market. You want the kind that uses a wand to direct the steam.
For plain soap I would try Simple Green. Simple Green does not disclose ingredients but says that it's biodegradable, just don't dump it down a storm drain.
Might try H2Orange2 which contains hydrogen peroxide and citrus as a presoak and wash. Oxycleen is another h.peroxide cleaner - I don't use it mainly because of the jerk who yells about it on the TV ad! In any case. dilute solutions first. Dilute hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate, is not considered toxic. Any quantity of sodium hypochlorite is toxic.
Detergents are petroleum based products. The old way was to use a strong liquid detergent as a soak on mildew and oil stains, then wash using the same stuff with hot water. Now we try to avoid that.
Salt and lemon juice for rust stains. Torresen says try it on mildew too.
Green products are making good head way as alternatives to petroleum product pollution that the great chemical corporations have suckered us feckless housewives into. The end costs are proving deadly. Most of us are fine as long as someone else does the ethics. It costs upfront a little more to use Seventh Generation, Biokleen, and Whole Foods soaps. You won't find a spray bottle for mildew on their shelves. But there are liquids like 'Bac-Out' stain remover using enzyme cultures and citrus that might be worth a try. A final wipe down with WHITE VINEGAR of sails and lockers after cleaning is said to prevent molds from returning.
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Fungi can be toxic to humans. When the boat is drying out down below and you are moving things about you can breathe in spores that cause mycoses, sometimes serious. I've always assumed that sodium chloride and molds are enemies - wood ships carried salt in their bilges.
If there is a mold problem in an Ariel then you could have a 'fresh' water leak.
Have to source the leak, reaccess the ventilation, and remove mold from lockers and corners. If you smell mold when you open up the boat you got a problem.
Yes, Congrats!
)
when you open up the boat you got a problem.
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