Don't know if you are seriously thinking about removing the liner.
Here are some ebbsters on that subject (without any how-to's!!)
When A338 had the cabin opened up, the V-berth area, which has no liner, had to be
spiffed up. That was a PITA. Took a large amount of prep, filling, fairing, and sanding
to get it presentable - even tho it is a pretty small space, it's also an awkward space,
with !@#$%^ overhead! Do the whole cabin to a aesthetically presentable condition would
be daunting. PRO, with the liner, it's already a fairly nice smooth!
The liner was put in by capturing the ends under the bulkheads, like it's smuuched on top of
the compression beam, likewise under the bridgedeck.... have to cut it out. Just cutting it
out of the accommodation will be a real treat. But, it's not more than 1/8" thick.
It must have been a PITA for the guys at Pearson to put it in! A338's liner was jacked up
crooked. Not impossible to deal with. Everytime you put a hole in it, you're in for a surprise.
Some PROs: The empty space between the cabin molding and the liner provides an extra
layer of insulation. There may be condensation inside (unlikely under the top which has a
balsa core). Yes, along the coach sides, but the sides are mostly 'glass' anyway.
Side decks are cored, and the liner is somewhat tight to the deck there.
Using the liner around the windows to create a hidden internal frame around the windows
will remove the flex from the sides...and consequently stop the leaking there. But Pearson
designed the stupid windows to capture the liner and sort of clamp it close to the cabin
with the window glass floating in the space between. Doesn't work, does it? because the
liner is not in the same place all around the cut outs.
Squeezing a gel mix that contains chopped fiber in between the two moldings means it will
no longer be squeezable - this may mean that when reinstalling original frames the tiny
#4 machine screws that dead end into the inside frame will probably not work anymore.
Forget how much bury in the frame there is for that connect, but not much, like an 1/8".
Ruminating on that fastening system, it isn't hard to imagine these porch windows blown
out by a half ton green comber*. So another window system may have to be devised.
The PRO on that, imco, is to spend time, $$$, and energy there to solve the problem by
USING THE LINER AROUND THE OPENING TO HELP. Obviously no more leaks into the liner.
A338 has slab-on 3/8" lexan now, with NO fastenings (the ones all around the lens) showing
inside. If there was time I'd do it a little differently now....but essentially feel our large
lights - that I particularly like (sacrosanct!) - will now survive... anything.
Another PRO is that when attaching fixtures like rails outside, you can use the liner to create
hidden hockey puck backings for individual fastenings. So instead of a block of wood, a fender
washer under a nut will do. Depending on how much space you have between the moldings
(no surprise it'll be different in every boat) could figure out how to install the nuts so they
don't protrude below the liner. Which is something my skull appreciates.
The cabin's primary laminate is substantial...like 1/4". Plenty strong enough for railings without
backing plates. Winches are something else....yet on the cabin top the pull load is horizontal.
So I don't believe a huge chunk of backing is necessary.
A338 has its inside handrails below the windows. The fastenings are hidden from the outside,
nothing shows, couldn't have been done without the liner. The rail is closed, so that it becomes
a narrow tray....to collect condensation!
Not to say that this couldn't be done with wood trim, ie fastening stuff thru the cabin molding
- sans the liner...
Of course I've never seen what the cabin looks like with the liner removed. Maybe it'd be a
piece of cake to doll up - and given how small the cabin living space, bet without the liner it'll
be a noticeable improvement.
.................................................. .................................................. .......................................
As delivered, our vessels were/are wet boats. If condensation is to be an upgrade, exposed
interior parts of the hull have to be insulated. Another chunk of time and money.
.................................................. .................................................. .......................................
*Have heard it said - and it is plausible - that windows are taken out by water action on the
lee side, boat leaning over in rough weather, rather than by greenies coming in over the bow......
Reply With Quote