To pull this thread back from the Brink of "Inyerendo"... ;D
(Sorry in advance for the bad pun, but - Ebb made me do it!)
The end is near!
The end of an extended stay at dockside for me and Katie... ;D
Went to the welders today, he will have my interior bulkhead-replacing custom aluminum tubing mast support finished next week. WOOT! It's the one piece I have been needing in order to get moving on the interior, and in order to put the spar back up and sail again...
It's being made of 1 & 7/8" tubing, with a wall thickness of ~5/32". It is replacing the original wooden beams of white oak, and so will be much stronger and stiffer, and will also allow the interior to be much more open. I'll post pics when I get it, with more details.
Ever notice that nobody posts full info on their external chainplates? Well, I'm fixing that...
The new exterior chainplate material goes off to the shop tomorrow. I have decided to have someone who is set up for it do the cutting and drilling. The material is the same stock as what originally came on the Ariels (1.25" x 0.187"), but all the chainplates are longer, and they will be mounted externally on the hull.
Additionally, I am going to a split-backstay arrangement, vs the stock single backstay. Below are a couple pics of the chainplate stock, marked for cutting and drilling. The uppers are 18" long, the lowers and backstay plates 12". There is one of the original chainplates in the pic for scale/comparison; IIRC, they were 8-9" long.
Measurements for the holes:
The top end, I traced from the original plates. I then flipped the original plate over, and drew on the bottom hole (in order to have a proper amount of material around the hole. Then for the shorter plates, I measured up 3.5" for each additional bolt hole.
For the long upper plate holes, I repeated the above for the top and bottom holes. Then I took the original chainplate, lined it up on the bottom hole mark, and made the next hole mark by skipping one of the original holes. I don't recall the exact distance, can post it if needed.
The plates will be bent for a fair lead on the shroud 2" below the uppermost point. The first hole down on the lowers is 2.5" below the top lip of the drip rail/gunnel, 3.5" on the uppers. This gives plenty of room to get a wrench on the nuts inside, when attaching them to the hull.
The proportions look right to me. Input anyone?
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