The album of Ariel #422

[CapnK]

A few things to note -

After bulkhead of the wanter tank area was skewed somewhat (I haven't found anything built here that *isn't* skewed, though, so that's not unusual... ).

The tank was bone dry and appears in fine shape.

In the last pic, the 3 tank keys shown were all found *under* the tank.

The outline directions in the manual are good, tank came out with no problem. But it was not glassed in at all, just setting there.

I made the long cuts with a skilsaw, and finished the corners with a jigsaw. Plenty of room between the blades and the hull per the directions. Not a very long job at all.

It looks like if a tank were made integral to the hull in this same location, it would hold a lot more water.

More grey-colored inner hull is evident. With resin drips over it from when the plywood was tabbed in, so whatever this mystery color is, it was installed by Pearson, and has held up really well.

[ebb]

Sounds like you can use a little help
from Sidle and Grissom. Dr Robbins
with his kit of anatomy saws would
be mighty helpful too. My vic, and
some others in the past, have that
mysterious blue which remains quite
un ex plain ed

[CapnK]

The port-side dinette remains, is in use daily, and is quite the cats meow, and so has earned a keeper-spot in the final plan. It is sleep-able, but - a couple weeks experience have shown that it is rather nicer to have a horizontal pad which doesn't need setting up when the eyes get droopy.

This, with mulling over flotation equations, and fiddling with the interior, took me down other lanes of thought, so 'tis the v-berth where I have been sleeping, and will do so when not at sea.

I slept on 4" thick cushions on top of 11" high plastic storage bins placed in the v-berth area while I tried this theory out. Worked well, except the side-deck has too much proximity when one is lying on their, well, side. A few days ago I quicky-built in a berth at an 8" height, and that has proven much more comfy, so the entire v-berth area will be elevated approx. 8" above the original level when finished. Under the cushions will be lockers with gasketed, sealable lids. Going with the center pole for mast support.

Starboard side hanging locker is coming out, and the whole counter and cabinetry along there will be shifted forward into that space. One of the buggers which has been plaguing me is what to do with the space in the extreme aft corners of the settee area. Hard to get to, tucked under the side deck and forward cockpit seat corner. Have been planning on removing the under-companionway stairs and sink, opening that area up and as noted before in this too-long thread, using a ladder for access to/from deck. Another bugger has been the porta-potti, which I plan to keep in lieu of a head and the associated plumbing. So.... I'm going to try for a small enclosed head/hanging wet locker to starboard of the companionway, potti on a slide out-shelf. If they can do it in a Flicka...

Here's a drawing to help visualize some of this.

[CapnK]

Here's more-or-less where I'll be putting foam and sealed lockers in order to make this boat float in case the sea gets in. Blue lines represent 1" thick foam panels with luan plywood skins, skinned and tabbed in with glass to seal it all completely. Solid blue areas will be solid foam, glassed in. Anchor locker is getting split in two horizontally, the area where the rode will lie will be sealed off from the boats interior, and will drain directly overboard a la Geoff's "Uhuru" and Frank/Adam/Howards #50.

I'll be reducing the area where water can lie within the boat, nearly filling all bilge areas and sump with foam - my thinking is that if there is seawater aboard, I wanna know about it, and get it overboard. Also, less space for seawater means more space for floaty foam.

Same for under-bunk/locker areas; basically, wherever there is a V formed against the hull, I'll put a foam floor in to make the bottom level at least partly.

Also, I have been playing with 3" thick piece of test foam directly against the hull, seeing how much *usable* area I lose with that thickness. It ain't much. If I can go with 3" thick from the stringer down, all the way through the boat, that will give me 48cu/ft of the the estimated 55-60cu/ft needed to float the boat if she gets holed.

[mbd]

Nice Kurt! Looking forward to seeing the in-progress pictures. A lot to be learned from your well thought-out and tried ideas. Looking good! Rock on, my man!

[CapnK]

Thanks Mike!

Yesterday I tore out the hanging locker, moved my 'galley' forward using that area (also making the countertop much wider than it has been), and used the aft wall of the old hanging locker to establish the forward wall of the new mini-head/hanging locker/utility closet. It works! It's not very large, so I don't think it is a solution for everybody, but it will be nice to have a spot right at the companionway to hang wet foulies in, or, in the unlikely chance that I can trick a woman aboard , a place where she'll be able to have her privacy. Or me mine, I guess...

I think I'll call it "the WC", like the Brits do.

[ebb]

G'mornin Kurt,
and a happy renovative '07.
I have your cad drawings on the kitchen cork walls - for inspiration!
Give us one on the WC (water closet), OK?
Head and heads (Brits) refers to the dump placed in the fo'c'sl of a ship.
Since yer moving the head aft, perhaps a more shippy term would be WL, for water locker?
Still appropriate for a portpottie, correct?
I like the locker's primary use being for wet gear! It's a real problem in a minimalist cruiser.

[mrgnstrn]

Here's more-or-less where I'll be putting foam and sealed lockers in order to make this boat float in case the sea gets in.



Also, I have been playing with 3" thick piece of test foam directly against the hull, seeing how much *usable* area I lose with that thickness. It ain't much. If I can go with 3" thick from the stringer down, all the way through the boat, that will give me 48cu/ft of the the estimated 55-60cu/ft needed to float the boat if she gets holed.

Kurt, let me offer a different opinion on your flotation idea.

1. It will be a huge PIA to put foam in those places, especially sheet foam.

2. It will be expensive to put in that pour in place stuff.

3. It is unlikely that an Ariel will get holed in such a way that you will want to stay on the boat. Think about this: What scenario would have to happen for an Ariel to get holed? What is the max speed of an Ariel under any condition...5.5 knots or so? How thick is the hull... 3/4" or more? If your Ariel is taking enough of a bashing to get holed, you are likely not going to want to stay there for it. The only candidates in my mind are a lee-shore of jagged rocks, fast moving freighters in the middle of the ocean, and those 100-mph cigarrette boats with alcoholic-induced accidents/collisions. With jagged rocks, just go ashore. With a frieghter, it will tear the boat up in a million pieces, so the floatation will not be any use. With the drunks, take your chances, your are as more likely to be injured by the accident than to worry about your boat sinking.

3.a. If you already sealed off the anchor locker, that is going to be your most bang-for-your-buck. That is the most vulnerable part, the front. That is the part that runs into things like containers, other boats, bouys, etc.

4. Even if it does float after getting holed, why do you want to save the hull? All equipment will be emersed and likely trash: engine, electronics, personal effects, everything. Why do you want to save that stuff? And it's not as if the boat will float that high in the water, likely it will be like the containers we hear about, nearly nuetrally bouyant and floating with just inches exposed. It's not as if you can really use the boat in that condition.

5. A good 3-person life-raft is probably cheaper and less frustrating than any floatation-addition-project.

6. In a small boat, the space taken by the foam is going to be "expensive" in terms of usability. Better to install the air-bag-floatation things. They stay small until called upon.

7.Do many other long-distance ocean voyagers do this mod? I am thinking about the father-son duel that went around Cape Horn in the 80's in a 24-footer. They were from Connecticut if I recall, and built the boat themselves from a kit. Their book is really good and might give some ideas about what is needed for blue-water ocean passages.

---not raining on your parade, just giving you something to think about, and maybe save you some time so you can get to making passages sooner.---

[ebb]

AH HAH! Heat's ON!
This is Kurt's page, so we'll let him respond to Keith's views, most of which I agree to, viz 338, another cruiser in the making.

But not Point 4. Feel very strongly that the boat is essentially a spaceship. If something happens to it in the Indian Ocean, say, and it fills with water and it doesn't sink, there are still more life saving resources if you stay with it than on a liferaft. A liferaft supposes RESCUE. That may not be the correct assumption.

Thinking about making an Ariel unsinkable is a good exercise. I personally would not give up an inch of volume to foam fill except for a 1/2" of ensolite on the whole upper part of the hull for insulation. I think svATOM (Baldwin) has the right idea in making lockers and stowage space 'water-resistant'. I would not use or trust any foaminplace urethane. (There is an out-gassing issue and it is NOT closed cell.)

Nothing can be said about being totally smashed to smithereens, we better have some sort of alternative aboard. But total disaster may cancel out any one of those: liferaft, dinghy, pfd.
How long would you live in an emersion suit anyway? Better to think about making the boat unsinkable and repairable.

Let's explore the ways....
__________________________________________________ _______________________________________________
Kurt, how you figure 60 cu ft? When you multiply 60 times 64 (wt cu ft water) the total is 3840# displaced.) Will that float the boat?

[mbd]

RE: Kieth's #7 above: My Old Man and the Sea - good read.

[CapnK]

Kurt, how you figure 60 cu ft? When you multiply 60 times 64 (wt cu ft water) the total is 3840# displaced.) Will that float the boat?

Ebb -

60-65 cu/ft is what I am going for in the amount of foam alone.

Jim Baldwin is an extremely thorough person, one who I admire for many reasons. If you read his "IN SEARCH OF THE UNSINKABLE BOAT" article, his figures come out to ~.89 cu/ft of foam per 100 lbs displacement to keep his boat floating with decks awash. Add 10% to that (for ease, and safety, and perhaps differences in the amounts of materials which make up an Ariel vs a Triton), and you have 1 cu/ft per 100 lbs displacement. Thus, my ballpark figure of 60-65 cu/ft for an Ariel loaded with 1,000-1,500 lbs of stores and gear. I will also test this*.

Like Jim (and I have discussed this with him on the phone), I will have watertight lockers which will provide the additional flotation needed to keep the decks from being awash, ideally to actually float them slightly above the surface. The lockers will also serve to keep water from flooding into the boats interior, since they will directly cover probably well over 75% of the area of the hull which can be holed. They will serve as small sealed crash bulkheads, water which gets past the hull and enters them will be able to go no farther, or, if it does, at a vastly reduced rate of flow.

The way I am building in the interior of the boat also makes it so that any water which does get inside will be confined to a small narrow space until it is 3' deep or so. This will keep it from sloshing side to side, making the boat roll-y. With an interior which makes any water very noticeable and confines it to a large degree, and a high capacity bilge pump to get it out, I should be able to deal with all but total, unstoppable calamity.

If that happens, well, it must just be "My Time To Go", and there isn't much I can do about *that*.

------------------

*Once I get it all built in, I will sink my boat.



Yes, you read that right. Out in the Bay, on a calm summer day and over a shallow sandbar, with a *very* high capacity pump to do both the filling and the emptying, I am going to see with my own eyes if and how she rides when full of water. That will be a fun and interesting day.

I'll measure and double- and triple-check everything beforehand, but if it all seems right, then that's the last logical step. And of course I'll post *those* pictures.

PS - "I agree, "My Old Man and The Sea" was a great book. I read it the summer after my father died. Bummer, that, and it made the tale even more poignant.